sblake01

Not quite. It operates in the start postion and only for 8 seconds when the engine is cold due the the bi metal coil in it which heats from current flow until it breaks contact. It also won't operate it the coolant temp is 35C or above.

It could be. An 80-83 had the Z20 and I believe the later 84 and up use the CA18/20. Both are slanted for hood clearance.

The bell housing appears to be integral with the trans case. You have to modify it similar to the Z31 trans modification in the thread I linked. I don't know, not knowing what vehicle it's for, you don't know what the ratios are. Would it really be worth the hassle?

I like Nigel's solution a little better. Calling the ECU on a 280Z/ZX a 'brain box' or comparing it to anything on a 2002 vehicle is like calling a 1970s transistor radio a home theater. The inhibitor switch and inhibitor relay seems to play a prominent role in the start/run circuit:

Need to inform the seller and the person he got it from that they are not for L series engines. Perhaps they're for trucks like the 720, D21, etc.

I've seen that car at the SoCal shows. Lots of personal touches.

It doesn't have the Z31 type shifter so I don't know what it is.

I guess I should have looked more closely at your pictures. I went by the 'TA71B' number that you posted. I wonder where the person that Lee280zx bought this from got them. It still looks like a Z31 trans to me. Perhaps it's a non USA trans.

That's why this is a tough question to answer. I gave the figures from the FSM. People decide to disect and analize but there is no standard answer. You're putting this stuff on an old engine, mixing components, you're likely not an ASE certified mechanic (excuse me if you are-just making a point). There is no way anyone can give you anything but a S.W.A.G to such a question. If you believe all the claims you read, you could double your horsepower by simply bolting on the items that claim 25 extra hp, 50 extra hp, etc. I'll stick to my answer in post #2.

I already i'd the trans in post 2. We discussed it before here.

There really are no other options if you want to operate it legally here. It has to comply with the standards set for it's particular year. Sucks, but that's the way it is. I'd much rather have my cars 'correct' by California standards (as they are) simply because I live here rather than trying to get around the rules. Much easier and less costly.

151@5600rpm. Many claims are made about how much mods like headers, ignition, etc. add but the only way to know for sure is to have it dyno'd.

Z31 non turbo, 1984 to 1989

I wasn't knocking either car, just some of the terminology in the ads.

What does that mean? I thought 'second generation' referred to someone like myself whose parents were born in another country.

Car #!-'Restoration'? It's a V8. the Hack Shack? Car #2-Rust proofing?

Not on a 78. Most of them know what's supposed to be there and they'll look it up if they don't.

A 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO will eventually replace my 810 Coupe as a daily driver. Something about 400 HP with 17-25 mpg in a 3700 lb car speaks to me also. Wish it was lighter but we always wish that with a car.

Nah, had one of those. At 6-2 and 200lbs I'm too big for it.

Good luck. He hasn't posted here in 2 1/2 years.

Forget the 240/260 terminology. It doesn't apply to your car. It's a Fairlady Z...period. The Fairlady Z432 was no longer in production at the point when your car was built. L20A was the only engine option. That's pretty much all I know about them. HS30H (Alan T.) could tell you lots more about it.

I've saw a couple of interesting decals on a car at a show this past weekend. One said "Friends don't let friends use Fram" and the other said "Friends don't let friends use Fel-Pro".

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO. 400 HP, 17-25mpg,.....even if I do get one I'm still keeping my Z.

After re reading this, Arne is likely right. You either have the mismached compenents or worn components. Does the clutch slip?

Try http://www2.zhome.com:81/.