sblake01

The wider gap is for the cars with electronic ignition. The correct plug number is BP6ES for a 240Z and 260Z (.031-.035) and B6ES for a 280Z (.039-.043). Those are both according to the FSM. Apparently the EFI cars don't need the 'P' (projected tip). The 'R' (resistor) is optional. Technically speaking, Jared, if you're running BP6ES with a .040 gap on a 280Z, you're using the wrong plugs with the wrong gap.

Welcome. I grew up in Pomona. Graduated for Ganesha High School in 1968. In fact, if you include my brothers and sisters, there was a Blakeney in that school for about a 20 year span.

I said 5/8" but I really meant to say 5/16" id which is smaller than 1/2" so that would be a tight fit on your G3. I use EFI hose for everything even return hoses. Yes, I'm going to sell my Datsuns gradually over a three year period in favor of a 2005-2006 Pontiac GTO. I've reached the point where I'm tired of working on 30+ year old cars and especially sourcing parts for them. I plan to sell one per year for the next three years starting with the truck. Who ever buys them will get quite a deal since I'm basically going to sell them for what I have in them plus they'll come with the spare parts I have for them. This is the hose I use. http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(j0i1jxisk1wqx0ryfkvz1fmb)/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=4090437

17 1/8 gallons according to the FSM. Most if not all of the main fuel lines are 5/8" but it has to be rated for fuel injection. Too bad you're not closer. I bought the remains of a spool of it, about 35ft., before I left ACE hardware.

Haven't seen you here for quite a while, Stephen. Looking forward to seeing pictures of the new paint scheme.

I'm still wondering why no one uses the vacuum delay valve that was part of the original setup on a 280ZX. I'll just bet that would solve most of the problems that occur when that dist. is installed on earlier cars.

Oh, Vista! I have an licensed unlimited use copy of Vista Ultimate and I don't even use it. I installed it on a couple of computers and didn't like all the hoops you have to jump through in order to use it. Switched them back to XP Corporate SP3. Maybe Windows 7 will be better.

Do you have the Adobe acrobat reader or other suitable Adobe program on your computer?

The DMV only enters what the owner writes on the form. That coupled with the fact that 260Z as well as many if not most cars from that era only went to 99999.9, would not indicate the original mileage.

Didn't I link you to 260Z FSM in one of the other threads?

Never had it happen in my Z but I had the same thing happen in my 810. All the things you mentioned plus the voltmeter feed of of one 10A fuse that's labeled 'FLASHER-LUZ-INTERM' on the 810 so I'd check the fuses again.

Courtesy Nissan used to or maybe still sells engines like that but none of them were/are 'factory rebuilt' or even 'factory certified'. They're done by an outside source just as any rebuilt engine you'd get from any other source. Nissan isn't in the business of rebuilding or even certifying 30+ year old engines.

I'm not too familiar with turbo injectors other than they have a higher flow rate and if one of your injectors is of a different flow rate it would definately affect the performance.

I'm not sure on the ZX's. We only had the two row pulley on the 280Z because of no power steering. That's one unit. Looking at the diagram for a ZX, it looks to like the outer pulley is seperate but the inner two are one unit. Sounds like the rubber that is bonded in between the inner and outer parts of the pulley has deteriorated. They can be rebuilt/rebonded. It's been years but I had that done on a harmonic balancer on a Chevy I once owned. Check with a machine shop. If they don't do it there they can steer you to someone who does. Like I said, I'm not sure but this scan from the ZX manual makes it look like the ps pulley is seperate from the other two.

Or some sort of perverse rendition of the Superbird/Daytona Charger.........I guess it's a matter of taste. Someone liked the idea enough to actually render it.

I've heard it called 'lowdown' as well as a number of other things. It's almost hard to find two people that call it the same thing. By the way, what is 'our normal US shift pattern'? Even that one would be open for debate.

I'm pretty sure that Alan knows the pattern you refer to. He's just questioning why it's called a "Euro shift pattern" as I was wondering about the oft used 'dogleg' term for the same pattern.

Makes as much sense as calling it a 'dogleg'.

It's horizontal when unlocked.

Like I said in the other thread, that's junk and might not even be good as a parts car with all of that rust. I don't know how hard those are to find in Hawaii but if it were me, I'd leave it right where it is. You'd be better off finding a better example.

I'm afraid I'd have to agree with Rick.....junk. At best it's a parts car.

Let me know how that test turns out. Like I said, I've never known them to go bad. Every time I've run that test, they came out okay. If I'm going to test a set of dropping resistors either for myself or someone who thinks his may be bad, what I do now is plug them into a known working car, ususlly either of mine. If it starts up and runs, then they're not the problem.

What's an 'SW130'? I'm not familiar with that terminology as applied to a ZX. All I'm aware of at least for US market 280ZX's is HLS130, HLGS130. KHLS130, or KHLGS130 with K denoting the T top and G denoting the 2+2.

That may have been me talking about thesting them. This scan would likely be easier to understand than my explaination:

I've never known of them going out on my cars or other 280s/810s/910s etc. that I've been around. Not saying that they couldn't. Just that I've never experienced it.