Everything posted by sblake01
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BRE Tribute car for sale
I took a pic of that car in front of the DHM a couple of months ago:
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Defector from Camp Mopar
As I recall the Sport Fury I had did but the Duster, not so much.
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Finding my old car
They (whoever 'they' are) also says California is known for the rays and the gays.......
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Delphi fuel Pump any good?
The reason I mentioned the Carter pump is that I had no problems when I used their pumps on American cars that I owned in the past. I've never used one on a Datsun nor do I have any experience with the Delphi pump. The damper should be fine. I've never had a problem with the fuel damper on my cars and only know of one case where someone I know had a problem with one.
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Where do we all live? New shared Google map
Thanks.
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Where do we all live? New shared Google map
See what you've gotten yourself into, Arne? But while you're into it, could you add a pin for sblake01 in San Bernardino, CA?
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Defector from Camp Mopar
Welcome from antoher Steve! I had a couple of Mopars 'back in the day'. A '70 Duster 340 6-pack and a '64 Plymouth Sport Fury 426 wedge. Fun cars but as I recall they were even expensive to work on back then. I think you'll enjoy this site and maybe even get some help from the guys in finding that 240Z.
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Exhaust smell in the car info -
Sounded to me like he solved the fume problem. Let us know how it turns out after they run the tests. I'm guessing the source of the low mpg is also a product of your previous owners friends' tinkering.
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Delphi fuel Pump any good?
Who sells it? Don't see it on the O'Reilly site. I've not heard of a Delphi fuel pump for a Datsun. I'd be tempted to try the Carter inline fuel pump that Checker/Shucks/Kragen/Murrays/O'Reilly (depending on where you are) sells. Part number P70304. It costs about $30 less than the Delphi.
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Vacuum source
I was just saying that I was not sure that you're setup would be the same as the rest of the cars in this thread. Each year of E12-80 dist. seem to be a bit different. I discovered that a few years back and Carl and Bruce's statements early give more credence to that. The 79 dist. seems to work best with the vacuum source being the manifold pulling though a vacuum delay valve. That has been my experience. Now that may or may not apply to carbureated cars but Arne stated that the advance came on too quick when it's from the manifold rather that the ported vacuum. Placing a delay valve in that line puts the advance right in spec and still pulls enough at idle to be smooth. I don't know how or if that would differ with carbs since my experience is with EFI but I would think that the effect would be the same.
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Someone Should Go Look 70Z -$2250.00
Why not? I always seem to end up there during the worst part of the summer anyway.
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Someone Should Go Look 70Z -$2250.00
I've owned two in the past and would like to own one again but it's not an obsession. Far from that and it will likely never happen. Too many other things precede it on my list of things I'd like to have.
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Someone Should Go Look 70Z -$2250.00
Me too but at this stage of the game it will have to take it's rightful place on the long list of thing I'd like to have. A paid off mortgage (3 more years), a retired wife (also 3 more years) ,........a series one would probably come in about 12th or 13th on the list.
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Help!! 1978 280Z barely idles
Different scenario. The throttle valve switch wouldn't be causing problems with the distibutor advance.
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Finding my old car
Granbury is near to Dallas IIRC. That's puts you about 300 miles from my sister's house. Texas is huge. The only direction I could 300 miles from home and still be in the same state is north. She's comming out here this summer but we might be visiting her in 2010.
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Can someone identify this wire?
Glad to help. That's an improtant piece on these engines. It affects the fuel mixture at idle, off idle, and wide open throttle for NT cars and idle and off idle on turbo cars.
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Finding my old car
I don't know, the topic of Texas is a bit more intersting to me. My sister lives in Houston. She doesn't know how I can stand to live in California and I don't know how she can stand to live in Texas. She talks about the cost of stuff here and I talk about the weather there. We both love to visit each others' state but can't wait to get back home from the visit. I guess it's all in what your're used to. Oh, and she's not the family member with connections with the California DMV:) Now, back to the topic. I've searched for my former 70 240Z off and on for several years now and it seems to have fallen off the face of the earth. Not so much as a trace shows up through the DMV records. Having a connection didn't even help.
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Help!! 1978 280Z barely idles
Is that a 25 degree initial advance? Idling @ 700-800 rpm with the line from the vacuum pot blocked? If so, either something is stuck insided the distributor or it's not clocked right with the oil pump. Does the breaker plate move. Even 20 degrees is a lot. The service manual calls for 10 BTDC. That would definately cause the issue you speak of and maybe others.
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Finding my old car
Secede?
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What is this part???
John, that's not the same part as the part being discussed as it wouldn't be even remotely sturdy enough to mount a sway bar.
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Vacuum source
Kurt, your car is quite the hybrid compared to the cars in this thread. I still contend that full manifold vacuum with a vacuum delay valve is the way to go for a 79 E12-80 dist., everything else being stock, which your isn't. That's the way the distributor was originally set up. I'm specifically referring to a 79 distributor on an L24 with SU's. Being connected to the ported vacuum is likely not to produce enough to idle smoothly. I don't think the SU's would compansate for that as the EFI would. As Bruce said the electronic distributors differed though the years.
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Finding my old car
Unless you have a relative that works for them.......
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70-76 cnc billet door dovetails
The dovetail keeps the door from sagging and actually lengthens the life of the hinges by keeping the door from moving while you're driving. In mid 76 they changed to what they thought was a better system but it's only as good as long as the bushings are in tact.
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Help!! 1978 280Z barely idles
So basically you solved it by correcting a problem that is seldom, if ever, heard of. I've never had a clog in a vacuum line on any car I've ever owned that I can recall. I wouldn't have suggested a clogged line because I've never experienced one. Collapsed; yes, clogged; no. The three threads from this site that you linked to had more conventional solutions. Your other problem: I don't recall your head gasket thread but were you having any other problems prior to having to replace the head gasket? What is/was the condition of the engine besides the head gasket? Is the AFM you purchased from MSA specifically a for a 78; i.e., no fuel pump contacts nor a connector pin for them? I ask that because the 78 AFM is calibrated differently than the 75-77. If your compression is okay as well as the integrity of the EFI system, i.e., no leaking injectors, proper fuel pressure, all switches, sensors, and components within spec and with proper connections, then the problem could be the AFM. It likely needs to be calibrated. That requires access to some type of exhaust gas analyzer, air/fuel wideband sensor or something of that nautre to properly calibrite it. Regardless of what others say, doing them by ear, by the 'seat of the pants' or the number of clicks doesn't really cut it.
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Vacuum source
Haven't had a 240Z for years so I had the ported vacuum and the manifold vacuum backwards. Based on that, if Arne connects the vacuum line to the manifold vacuum and uses a delay valve between that and the distributor that would solve the problem he described.