sblake01

IMO the late 280Z/280ZX internally regulated alternator is all you'll need. I have a stereo with amp, sub, and 6 speakers, AC, Accel SS coil and I've not had any alternator related problems with my stock 78 alternator.

I could be wrong but the tint might have been a dealer installed option. If it's truly factory AC and not dealer installed, 74 was the first year for it. I don't really think that the auto trans is all that rare. That 74 TIU will be a tough find.

Translation:That sounds good to me. Anyone have pics that show the new flush mount lights on a car?

I just looked at the 260Z FSM and there is a rather involved procedure for troubleshooting the TIU especially so for the one on automatic transmission cars. And it's considerally different from the TIU on a 78 280Z which I am familiar with. Apparently the 260Z requires a proprietary 'Transistor Ignition Unit Tester' whereas I can test mine with an regular oscilliscope. In both cases, however, either they pass the test or they don't and there's no recommendation for repair. The only recommendation is to replace them when they malfunction. In fact the exact wording in both FSM's is "If the result is 'N.G', the fault lies in either the transistor unit or in the secondary high-tension wire. Replace these parts." The fact that you have to heat yours to get it to function would indicate a bad transistor somewhere in the unit and unless you posess the skills of a master electrician and know where to find a replacement, your only alternative would be to replace the entire unit. And from what I recall, the TIU for 74 260Z with an auto trans is the most expensive one out there!

My guess would be that something inside of that transistor ignition unit (I thought I'd type that out because I'm sure some people are scratching their heads) is not making good enough contact when it's cold and somehow expanding enough when warm to make good contact. Don't know if I'd want to try it myself but someone who is skilled with intricate soldering like printed circuits, computer cards or motherboards could fix that by re-soldering the connections inside of it.

Bought a new 240Z in Jan 1970 and met and spent hours talking with John Morton, Frank Monise, Pete Brock, Tom Davis, R.I.P. (Aviad oil pans), et al. at the BRE shop in El Segundo, Ca. Got free stuff from them like Interpart and BRE caps and T shirts that people would kill for now. Wish I still had them; the shirts, caps, and, of course, the car.

Bingo!

That's it, make me feel old! You're 4 months younger than my som.

I did that a few times before I retired. Now I've got all day to play with my Datsuns, computers, keyboards, saxophones, etc., but I still spend more time with the Datsuns.

You should always check the electrical connections on these 25-35 year old cars. Doubtful that there would be any problems with the ECU connector since it's not exposed to the elements like the one's under the hood.

I knew from the initial post that is was a member's car. The name is somewhat unique. Didn't really think it was important at the time.

About 4am. My wife goes to work early and once she's up, I'm up.

The only opinion I can add is that I find this all amusing. I have nothing to say about the car because I'm not looking to buy one nor anything about the seller since I have no experience with him and, like I said, I'm not looking to buy one. But, argue on, it makes for good reading.

If you have a source for new BFG 2256014s, let me know where it is. 14" performance tires are getting scarcer. I have 2256014 Yokohama A509s on my car but they've been NLA for years. Mine are good wear wise because I don't drive the car much but age wise they're getting a little old.

That would explain that.

Mine has rubber bumpers between the louver slats and the glass. The only time I get any kind of noise is when I turn the amp to full sub and crank the volume. It makes kind of a dull 'buzz' at that point but I don't listen to the radio at that high of a volume.

I think the Chastain Shadow louvers were the best that were made 'back in the day'. I have a set of them on my Z and a set of the Intepart LiftLouvers on my 810. They both mount without drilling and hinge for cleaning but the fastener setup that attaches the lower latching point is better made on the Chastain louvers. The Interpart louvers use that flimsy T shaped 'key' that turns the latches into place and they sometimes bind which can cause the key to bend or break while the Chastain louvers use a brass nut over a stud.

Check the connection at your water temperature sensor. If the connection is okay then check the sensor itself as per page EF-53 the 1976 FSM.

How's the adjustment/condition of your throttle valve switch?

Just bumping this to let you know that the heater valve for an S30 is different than the one for an 810.

So you need a pointer for the passenger side of the block? I may have one but it will take me a day or two to look through my stuff.

The key notch on the crankshaft pulley isn't in the same location as the notch on the pulley that lines up with the timing marker on the engine regardless of which side it's supposed to be on. Where is the notch on the edge of the pulley when the key notch is straight up?

You should still be able to get the one for an 810 believe it or not. 27116-Q0100. Try that number. It's been a while since I bought mine but there aren't that many 810s around so I'll bet they're still available.

................................

Since this thread (2 years old) I've had my old one apart and I'm pretty sure I could rebuild it.