sblake01

Does that equal 'you don't really have to drop the swaybar, you just have to spin the shaft with a scribe'? What's a scribe?

Try this site.

You shouldn't feel bad about that. Like they say, being 62 as you are or 58 like I am and being alive sure beats the alternative! Besides, we 50+ and 60+ year olds can tell stoires that the younger ones won't really get because they haven't 'been there'. Like being able to buy a car for $50 and actually driving it home. In fact, I drove my first car, a 58 Rambler American that I paid $50 for, for three years until my uncle overheated it and then hosed down the engine to cool it.:stupid:

I'm the oldest to respond so far as I'll be 59 on July 1st this year, but there are a few older than me on this site. My first Z was a brand new 70 (#488) and I've had two others including the 78 I have now. But more than a Z fan, I'm a Datsun fan and have had quite a few of them but I won't bore you guys with the list again.

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I'm not a nerd but I get it. An 80386 likely had a slower modem than 14.4. Something in the 300 or 1200 or maybe 2400 baud range.

There's been a number of posts on this issue. Many things could cause this. Leaking injector, leaking cold start valve, bad thermotime switch which would cause the cold start valve to work when it shouldn't, bad throttle valve switch, water temp sensor as you mentioned, fuel pressure regulator, bad connections at any of the above mentioned items. Do you have a factory service manual? It has step by step troubleshooting instructions.

Glad to see you got it fixed. I'd like to think that I helped but you actually located the problem.

Might work out better if you have the key made from the ignition rather than the door locks.

Have you checked the position of the throttle valve switch to make sure that the idle contacts are closed at idle?

That would be a large part if not the whole problem. If yours looks anything like the one pictured, replace it and I'll bet your problems go away. Wrap it with duct or other tape as a temporary fix and see it your car runs better. Try Z Car source (don't mind the picture-it doesn't have a spout even though the late model boot is shown) and they also sell them used for less money, $25.99 vs. $53.11: http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/52492/catid/7590_8323/Air_Flow_Meter_Boot_to_Throttle_Body__75_4_77__without_spout____new

No apologies are necessary, It's just that it's been done before. This link is to one of the many on this subject. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22929

I kept them in order also but it really doesn't matter as far as the systems operation but it does make it easier if you ever want to trace the wires or check continuity etc.

You're bringing back old threads. We've already been through all of this and moved on. The polarity doesn't matter as all the connector does is complete a ground.

We've also been wondering: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33649

Black smoke generally indicates a rich fuel mixture. This isn't an easy one to diagnose for me since it's a conversion. If the person that did the conversion swapped everything from the EFI car (except the gas tank) then normal troubleshooting would apply. If not, I'd just be guessing. The first thing I would check is the throttle position switch followed by the temperature sensor, both condition and integrity of it's connection, and then I'd check for leaking injectors/cold start valve, and the operation of the thermotime switch. Have you checked the fuel pressure?

Couldn't you just take the configuration of the old part, i.e. dimensions, etc., that are generated by the scanner into the computer program and go directly to the cnc machine process without having to make a model on the 'printer'?

Fouling with oil isn't a good thing. That generally means valve guides or rings. Are all 6 plugs fouling? Does the car smoke when it's running? Especially when you push it past half throttle? A compression test will help pinpoint it. Let us know what the readings are.

I think there all guesses at this point. He's been chasing this one for a while. It could just be a coincidence that the old motor did the same thing. If he swapped carbs what else would both motors have in common? Perhaps something in the drive train? Like I said, just guessing.

My car has it. It's a shield that covers the bolt on the right transverse link. And only the right as there is no place for a mount on the left. Doesn't show up in the FSM or the fiche. It's purpose? I don't know but I'm sure someone will. I remember making a replacement rubber cover for it as the old one had deteriorated.

Okay. Then I've got nothing. I could probably tell him what was wrong if it was EFI:)

All I can add to this is that when my OEM radiator finally died, I replaced it with another OEM style Modine radiator. I've driven my car in Southern California 100+ degree summers with no cooling problems and it's air conditioned. Weight savings? On a 280Z? I don't think I'd use that as a consideration but it's still your choice.

You know, that's kind of what I was thinking or at least something to do with the carbs. Old engine did it, new engine does it. Are they the same carbs, i.e, the ones from the old engine swapped to the new engine?

The thing is, my car doesn't spit and snarl when you let off the gas, isn't 'lopey', and is prety close to the performance numbers you mention, although I don't really buy the 136 mph thing, I guess it could happen but I don't drive my car that fast on the street but it will hit 90 in third and does it on 87 octane. Stage two cams are a bit much for a stock EFI L6 engine, like I said earlier. They are vacuum sensitive (hence the 'spitting and snarling') and more cam = less manifold vacuum.

Oh yeah, sick as I am, having owned as many as 6 Datsun at one time in the past, and now three, I know that there are many others that have it much worse! I won't say much about the computers, musical instruments, die cast cars, tools,...................