sblake01

It's in his signature and his avitar.

1997 I believe but Rob's logic likely doesn't apply because I doubt that you'll actually find this lock set at nissanparts.cc or any other Nissan dealership/website.

Just because an items come up in the nissanparts.cc database doesn't mean it's available. That only indicates that it's a good part number. Note the yellow 'bullet'. It would be green if it was available. I've done a lot of business with them and you'd have to call Russell or Lisa to verify availability or the lack there of.

The last picture in post one

I never did get that either. Centered or not, what is the stamping for? 280Zs don't have it but they do have an oval opening in the valence just to the right and above the exhaust that I've never figured out the purpose of.

True as all of that may be, the point has long since been made.

Provided that the items on the list of things you replaced are all working properly, the only other things that come to mind are defective thermotime switch which would allow the cold start valve to open when it shouldn't be open, a bad temperature sensor which would keep the fuel mixthre rich beyond the temperature that it should, or a bad or improperly adjusted throttle valve switch which would not allow proper mixture compensation for the particular range (idle, after idle, full throttle).

Glad you got it fixed! I suspected the fuel pump but there are so many variables that can cause this beloved EFI system not to run that I didn't want to question your 'skills'. They're self priming and shouldn't take more that 5-7 seconds to start the car even when there is no fuel pressure to begin with. I've mis-assembled a couple of them it the past but I put them on my 'test bench' before I install them to avoid what you went through.

Pretty sure that's correct.

I'll likely be in Solvang for the Datsun roadster show if both shows are once again held on the same weekend. That's been a yearly outing for us for the last 9 years. Even though I haven't owned a roadster in 12 years I still go.

I paid $275 for my 78 with a stuck left rear brake, a loose rocker, and faded paint. But it ran, everything else was in good shape (except the gas tank!) and it only had 48000 miles on it. Some 12 years and only about $2800 later, it's the car in my signature pic. The other two have similar stories but you wanted a Z story.

The factory shims are available through the dealer. Less than 3 bucks ea. You need 4. 2ea. 41084-A0100 and 2ea. 41085-A0100.

There is an option that would allow you to exclude those sellers from your search. I use it on my saved searches.

Not on a 75-77 as they have contact points in the AFM. You'd have to turn on the key and open the flap on the AFM to run the pump provided that everything is properly hooked up and functioning. I'm not sure that's the case when I read about the problems you're having. These pumps are self priming so you really shouldn't have to 'hotwire' it anyway. Even if you've somehow lost your fuel pressure, 5 to 7 seconds of cranking should start the car if all other things are right.

You have the bible but do you have a 1976 FSM? http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/76_datsun_280z.zip The bible is more oriented to a 75 and there were some changes made by 76.

I remember seeing this a couple of years ago. Took a while to find it again but maybe this is the info you're looking for.

I believe that worn throttle shafts require machine work. Might be time to contact Bruce about his product if that's the case.

That's nice....but that doesn't help him find one.:cross-eye

If that doesn't work, contact Russell Moore at nissanparts.cc. If they're available, he will get them for you. 1-866-754-5500.

Both can be adjusted. The Z by the somewhat vague procedure the FSM and the Escort via software.

Nope, no lockup like ozconnection said. What happens there is that when you depress the pedal, it contacts the kickdown switch located on the accelerator linkage which actuates the dowshift solenoid on the trans case which causes the trans to shift down. There are adjustments for that in the FSM.

I've tried it with mixed results but never on Datsun panels. Like it says in the link, certain types of plastic aren't candidates for welding so it would depend on the type of plastic the your panels are made of.

Essentially, that's an easier way of accomplishing the same thing that my earlier suggestion would. I guess it helps when you actually own a 260Z......

He hasn't posted here in 8 months so I doubt that he will answer. That's what can happen when you dig up 3+ year old threads.

So does my wife's HHR but that has nothing to do with the design of a RWD auto trans built in the 70s. The designs are totally different.