sblake01

It doesn't show up on who's computer? VIN's prior to approximately 1981/82 were less than the 17 digit standard that is used now and won't show up in a searchable database such as Carfax, etc.

I'm sure that I'll likely regret asking this but how did you arrive a that conclusion?

That place doesn't have the parking for a "great turn out" but I'll be there anyway. Even if I have to walk a distance from my car to the museum.

I just go by the size and shape of the cover. Octagon-R200, smaller and semi rectangular-R180.

My scans are from the Nissan Competition Parts catalog. As you can see, the R200 is larger (as it would be). One must be careful when reading info on a site that's based on someone else's observation. To say that it's 'offset to the driver's side' would actually be true in both cases though more visable on the R180 at a glance. Which one does yours look like?

I'm with you on both counts.

The 38311 part of the number seems to indicate that it's an S130 differential according to my research materials but I can't find the N3100 coupled to it anywhere. Also the last five digits of the R180 limited slip differential part numbers end in 15, 16, or 20 so yours is not a limited slip. If it's offset to the drivers side, it's not an R200 but rather an R180.

It takes some skills to get flat tops to work right. When we used to do them some years ago, complete dissasembly and a bit of machine work was involved. Too much to go into here. You'd be better off swapping them out for a pair of Bruce's fine product.

Have you tried the Nissan Fast program? From the XenonS30 site: Once you get the hang of it you can find any part number. You can download it here.http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

Kelly's not new. I recall her posting here a few years ago. Welcome back.

Besides, how much would it cost to store and keep that car in less than pristine but still good condtion for 28+ years? No relevance at all, as you said, just fun.

What calculator do you use? The one I use only goes through 2007:

The reason I mentioned the switch is because everything begins with it especially on the EFI cars. If it malfunctions to the point where there is cross tracking inside the switch all kinds of wierd things can occur.

A Braille battery is approx. 6" x 6" by 4" depending on the model. http://www.braillebatteries.com/

I think he's refering to the so called JDM valve cover that just says NISSAN on it in larger block letters than the ones we're used to and doesn't have the ribs. I say 'so called' because they seemed to be in other markets besides Japan. There were actually two versions, one with a slightly larger font: Thanks to Gav240Z for the pictures.

That's normal. Without the snout from the driveshaft there's nothing to hold the gear oil. I use a rubber pipe cap with a hose clamp on that part of the trans to prevent that.

The seller appears to be a Nissan dealer in Amherst, New York. I have bought stuff from other Nissan dealers on eBay in the past with no problem.

My stuff is out of the way. The two lids will actually lift together, with the cd changer and the amp in between them, to expose the spare, etc. And the extra 6x9s in the boxes are removable, two thumbscrews and a plug. As far as 'subwoofers for the younger crowd', I'm not trying to impress everyone or win bass contests. I don't even play it all that loud. The wiring is not complicated (if you know what you're doing) and it just sounds better than 4" speakers with no amp and no sub.

Mine are actually on rather than in the pillars. A small square of 3M double sided tape. They stay put but come off easily with no damage.

Wouldn't buying a used driveshaft and putting new u joints in it cost about the same or even more than having your old one machined for replaceable u joints? It's been years since I had that done on my 78 but I don't recall it being too expensive.

As long as it's not too early. At some point on the early cars the differential was moved to create better driveline angles. Any driveshaft from that point on would work.

Nope. And I've had no problems. A stock 78 and up alternator and good wiring is all you really need.

What I'd do is take a known working ignition switch (the electrical part) with me, unplug the connector from the one in the car, plug it into my switch, turn it with a screwdriver and see if that condition still exists. If not, the switch would be the cause.

Since I don't carry luggage in my Z, I built an enclosure on top of the spare tire cover. It houses my amp and a 12" Kenwood subwoofer. It still allows easy access to the spare, jack, etc. I removed the factory speakers. I have four Pioneer 6 X 9's, two mounted about where the tool box covers would be if 280Z's had them, and two in a removable enclosure between the front two and the sub. I have 1" tweeters on the windshield pilllar moldings just above the dash. It's all reversible as I have another complete rear shelf assembly out in the shed.