sblake01

Your thermotime reading is within spec but your wts reading is high at .85 which would make it run rich. At full operating temp. the reading at the water temp switchshould be in the .29-.36 range. The charts in the EFI Book and the FSM are the same except the EFI book gives the reading in ohms instead of k/ohms. And as far as those lower readings on the charts.....if the coolant temp is -30 or -10 degrees, you can throw those out. I don't know about you but I'm not working on the car if it's that cold!

You say you've cleaned all of the connections. Have you checked the functionality of the temperature sensor? If it has a bad connection or the sensor itself is bad it will cause the car to run rough when it warms up because the fuel mix is still where it should be for a cold engine. As the engine warms, the temp sensor allows the fuel mix to start out richer and gradually lean to the point it shoud be for proper running at operating temp.

You can also highlight that whole chart and save it as a word document. From there it would be easy to copy and paste it into an .xls worksheet.

I don't know as I've never used anything other than OEM.

There is some missing information there. I don't know about the need for another public database on Nissan transmissions since there seems to be so much disagreement on the info as far as trans ratios etc. I just look them up in my manuals/catalogs etc.

The bottom of an OEM 280Z fuel injector doesn't look any thing like that. The pintle on the bottom is different and there's a rounded plastic cap that covers it. I can take some pics of a stock injector if you'd like. Not saying that those you have won't work but they're not OEM injectors.

74-77 were externally regulated and use basically the same alternator as the 70-73 240Z but there were differences in the plug on the voltage regulator depending on the year. 78 and up are internally regulated.

PM sent.

Somewhat OT but has anyone heard from Vicky? Haven't seen her on the site for well over a year and I was just curious.

I don't recall the part number but a ZX ignition relay will work. All you need to do is take it out of the ZX case and put it in the Z case so that it will mount in the bracket.

There would be a vacuum leak unless the previous owner plugged the source at the intake manifold. The magnet valves also operate the air intake doors for the heater and defroster.

I already answered that in post 4. As far as the link Bryan posted, I would suggest against buying a used one, which is what Z Car Source sells, because of the hassle involved in installing it.

David.

Picture one: Those are magnet valves for the fast idle control device for the air conditioning and the mode door actuators, etc. Picture two: That's the condenser. The wire you're holding in your hand plugs into a wire that plugs into a ground at the base of the distributor mount.

I meant 12 different distributor part numbers, not module part numbers.

A quick search shows that there were 12 different part numbers and two alternate part numbers from 79-83 with the NA L28E. I could list them but it probably wouldn't help much without a yearly breakdown. To get that, I'd have to do more research in the Nissan Fast program.

I'm glad you didn't say 'pointless'!:classic: But to answer your question, yes, it should move more than 1/8". The fact that it moves is a good sign. Sounds like it just needs some cleaning and lubing. That would raise your 'plateau' up the scale a bit. My 810 (w/E12-80) pulls beyond 6K though I don't really know how far beyond because that's about as far as I ever take it.

Don't gather....test it! It's the easiest thing to test in what you're trying to troubleshoot. If the contact areas inside of it are iffy it will cause the problems you're having. Such as: Which you followed with: If the continuity in the switch isn't solid in the ACC, ON, and START positions, you'll have problems. BTDT.

The two switches right in front of the shifter: left-rear window defogger, right-hazzard flasher. To the right of those, there's a larger opening roughly twice the size of the switches. It's usually covered with a plastic blanking plate. That spot was used for an optional antenna switch to allow the use of the stock semi automatic antenna when an non factory radio was installed. The two lights just in front of them are indicators/warning lights: left-rear defogger, right-fasten seat belts. In between those is the AC compressor control switch for the dealer installed AC system. Your car might not have that so there could just be a plastic blanking plate in that space.

I know they at least used to exist. I used them on my L series 4 cylinder cars back in the day.

That may only be part of the problem. Remember it's an EFI car with electronic ignition, no ballast resistor. If that switch is bad to the point where it's not energizing the starter, it might not be energizing the ingition relay or the fuel pump either. Check the switch as diagrammed in post 12. That way you can confirm that it's the problem or rule it out.

If it was an earlier car like 75-78 I could likely be of some help but, not being at all familiar with ZX wiring, I'll have to defer to someone who is. David (zbane) comes to mind but I guess he hasn't seen this thread yet.

Here's the on the car cleaning explaination from another thread:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=256648&postcount=16 To do individual injectors off the car, I connect the feed line for the cannister to the injector and place the injector in a jar. With it set at 40 psi, I pulse it with a tool I made which consists of a 9 volt battery, a momentary switch, and an injector connector. It only takes about 4 or 5 pulses to get the clog out and produce a good stream. But, like I said, you either have to have the tools or have access to the tools.

They can if you have access to a pressurized cannister type injector cleaner.

Here's a chart I made up a while back to test the ignition switch: