sblake01

The coil is the electrical part. If you hear a clicking it does mean the coil is good but there still could be dirt or grit of some kind causing the needle valve to not close all the way. The problem with checking the cold start valve the way you mention is that if you pull that line from the cold start valve, you'll release the fuel pressure which is why I suggested starting it after you plug the line.

No, it was white. It was also a solid roof not a t-top. I remember him calling it a 'slicktop' and commenting on how hard they are to find.

You guys hava a Sammamish and a Snohomish up there? That definately trumps our Muscupiabe.

About 8 years ago, my then brother-in-law, James, purchased a 92 Z32 non-turbo. He lived in Houston, TX at the time and the car was out here. I was paid, by him, to drive it from West Covina, CA to Houston and given a plane ticket for the flight back home. I 'enjoyed the ride' more on the way there than the ride back.

Are you sure? They look exactly like the Appliance Wires I had on my truck for a short while years ago. No matter, they're still a pain regardless of brand.

Oh yeah! Mike W. started that one quite some time back. Three years or more ago.

Well, at very least, shows that your fuel system maintains its fuel pressure. More likely, your cold start valve is leaking rather than all 6 injectors. Generally when an injector leaks, it's a bad needle valve, or something clogging it, or a bad magnet coil. I have the equipment to clean them. I have taken injectors that were clogged and cleaned them to the point where they work as they should. A bad coil requires dissambly and in that case, I toss them because those parts are hard to find and it's easier to just replace the injector. But, in your case, I'd try removing the connection and fuel line from the cold start valve, plugging tihe line. Run the car to clear out the fuel and then check fhe plugs the next morning.

Or even this one: http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry Don't forget to click the tabs at the bottom of the page.

Nope. They're definately aftermarket. The look like Appliance Wires and you really want to steer clear of them. They're a pain in the butt. They have to be 'trued' every so often, they're hard to keep clean, and, IIRC, they use those sloppy-assed 'vari fit' washers for the lug nuts.

I have a "life is a journey, enjoy the ride" T-shirt with those characters in a Z32 on it. I think those commercials are also on the Z car microfiche CD.

I just would not pay that much for a 1/24. The Kyosho is just as detailed, if not more so, is 1/18 and cost $60-$70 new. Unfortunalely, from what I understand, they are NLA from the manufacturer as they've moved into the RC car market. You can still occasionally find them however. http://www.1-18scalecars.com/0Datsun_240Z.htm

I didn't make any assumptions. I simply asked if you had a FSM and gave you a source in the event that you didn't. Common solution to what? The ignition relay isn't common to both circuits and you're talking about two problems. The combination switch could be at fault since it controls both but you'd have to test it. Any relay can be tested if you know it's setup, i.e. where the ground, input, and output are. There are tests in the FSM for the fuel system related relays but I've not seen one for the ignition relay and haven't had cause to look for one because, quite frankly, in all my years of dealing with these cars, I've not had one go bad. I do have a couple of serviceable spares which I tested by plugging them into the car but I not sure if that's the cause of your problems. And to Kiwi ZX+Zed; try opening up that relay and spraying it with contact spray, something like DeOxit or LPS, that buzzing will likely disappear.

Trust me when I say this. If I have an item that I bought from an Autozone, Kragen, Pep Boys, etc., and it fails while under warranty, that warranty will be honored, regardless of their little disclaimers/loopholes etc. Let's just say that I have a 'knack' with these things. Ultimately, they don't ever want to give you your money back but if I want a refund, I end up getting one. I guess it's not worth the disruption of their normal operation to continue to hassle me once I've decided I don't want their part. I have a 100% success rate on that. Haven't had to do that much lately since I don't buy crap like that Airtex/Cardone fuel pump that they sell and I wouldn't advise anyone to.

Welcome. Interesting screen name. Is that for 'Noise, Vibration, and Harshness?' I studied a little engineering back in school but only about enough to remember some of the terminology. I guess you could call them 'first gen' but since you talking 70-78, S30 would be more accurate.

He's talking about Brembo aluminum drums not factory aluminum drums, right?

Final comment ever from me on the_cafe: Since this guy has earned a spot on my ignore list, I can't see what he's saying, except when you quoute him, and I don't really care to. However, based on the responses, nothing has changed and I still don't understand why he get's indulged on this site. Rock on, Dude!!

When you say 'Z and G' owners, aren't you referring to 350/370Z and G35/37 owners?

I have that Road Signature green car as well as the #26 BRE version. I paid $9.99 ea. for them a couple of years ago at Costco. I have a SunStar which is less detailed than those but the window frame is on the door. It's black which is all wrong but it was cheap too. My favourite one is my silver Kyosho. It cost 7 times as much as the RS but the detail is much better. I wouldn't pay $50 for the FM version because I only collect the 1/18 scale and the miniature 'Hot Wheels' size ones.

The turn signals are tied in to the ignition relay but the headlights aren't. There's a fusible link that feeds them. There are other things in both circuits that could cause them not to work. Do you have an FSM? If not, download one here and look in Section BE (Body Electrical) section.

Yes, it's located in the relay bracket on the passenger side near the fuse box.

So that it will be primed for the next start. If you've ever run a mid 70s early 80s Datsun EFI car out of gas, especially the ones that don't start the fuel pump until the engine is cranking and has enough oil pressure, it takes a while to get them started.

Okay, I'll take one last attempt since I'm only guessing at this point. Could it be the metal tube that goes from the base of the EGR housing on the intake to the bung on the back of the exhaust manifold? If not, without a picture, I'm out of guesses.

The only other thing I can think of is the exhaust gas sensor which is what Nissan called the front O2 sensor. Try an auto parts store because the OEM sensor is somewhat pricey from Nissan (if it's still available). About $35-$40 vs. about $115-$140.

I was referring to Nissan/Datsun.

EGR valve?