sblake01

So that it will be primed for the next start. If you've ever run a mid 70s early 80s Datsun EFI car out of gas, especially the ones that don't start the fuel pump until the engine is cranking and has enough oil pressure, it takes a while to get them started.

Okay, I'll take one last attempt since I'm only guessing at this point. Could it be the metal tube that goes from the base of the EGR housing on the intake to the bung on the back of the exhaust manifold? If not, without a picture, I'm out of guesses.

The only other thing I can think of is the exhaust gas sensor which is what Nissan called the front O2 sensor. Try an auto parts store because the OEM sensor is somewhat pricey from Nissan (if it's still available). About $35-$40 vs. about $115-$140.

I was referring to Nissan/Datsun.

EGR valve?

It's on the Z car microfiche CD.

Won't work, no brakes. Could break a stud or two that way. My bar is drilled and the holes are chamfered so that the lug nuts bolt it securely to the studs.

And lose the ballast resistor......

That'll work!

They generally have documentation to back up their low mileage claims. If not, I just take what they say with a grain of salt.

I have a flat piece of bar stock that's about 4 feet long with holes drilled in it that fit over two of the lug nuts. I bolt it on on the opposite side from where I'm working and rotate it until it touches the ground in the opposite direction of the torque I'd be applying on the other side. It works! (as you can see, I've been through what you're going through and created my own tool)

It wasn't just Nissan; the million mile odometer didn't come into effect until 1980.

The 280Z has an L28E. It can be put in you 240Z with a lot less effort if you use your intake manifold and carbs from your 240Z. The 280Z A/C won't fit your car. The fuel injection swap can be done but it's quite labor intensive as you'll need to swap out all of the electronics from the 280Z and well as the fuel lines and find a 75-76 280Z fuel tank as the 77-78 tank won't fit your 240Z. Also, I think $1500 if kind of high for a wrecked 280Z.

I had a 94 J30. All I had to do was twist the engine 90 degrees in my mind to compenste for the I30's front wheel drive.

Passenger side, nearest the right fenderwell, firewall side of the engine.

Is that a sunroof in the first picture?:disappoin

Then your 'home free'. California's smog program only applies to 76 and newer vehicles. You don't have to smog it for a transfer unless it's in that catagory.

I didn't mention that option since I thought it would be more costly than just buying a used 72-74 S30 driveshaft. I actually had Inland Empire Driveline build me a driveshaft for my 78 about 10 yrs ago. It has serviceable u joints but is a bit on the costly side compared to a stock driveshaft.

You nailed it! I don't really care where anyone is from or who had what to say about what. I just thought it had reached a point where it was time to give up, relent, whatever. It's politics, it's going nowhere, and, like that other thing we all have, male or female, it's just opinion. So what? Let it rest....the disagreement isn't going to go away. Others have tried to inject humor and/or other ways to head all of this off but still; it goes on. No politics for me, thank you.

If your car's production date is from 8/75 to 7/76 then it's a 76 according to Nissan. Not a late or early or anything like that, just a 76. Production numbers 270001-350000

Head unit = stereo, radio or whatever you want to call it. If you have the stock radio, the stock antenna is semi-automatic and controlled by the antenna switch on the radio. Using a fully automatic antenna requires a little re wiring but nothing real difficult especially if you have and aftermarket radio with an lead for a power antenna but it can be done with the stock radio also.

All 280Zs came stock with non-replacable u joints on the driveshaft. You'll have to replace the whole thing. You can use a 240-260 driveshaft so that, in the future, you would be able to just replace the u joints if need be.

As Carl mentioned above, use Kroil. I might even do an application or two more than he suggested. Now I know this will sound like a 'tall tale' but I've used that method for all the years I've worked on Datsuns, nearly 40, and I've never broken a stud. *knock on wood*

I have a cheap off-brand fully automatic antenna that I bought ten years ago at Harbor Freight that still works fine. It required a couple of changes to the wiring and I did it so long ago that I've forgotten exactly what I did. They don't seem to sell that antenna any more but I'm sure others would work.