sblake01

If you blew a head gasket, and you used some type of block sealer, it's only a temporary fix. If this is your only means of transportation, you're going to have to consider something else either now or when (not if) the 'quick fix' fails. And, Jim, I hope this isn't antoher one of your threads designed just to get a reaction. In the words of Mick Hucknall (from the group; Simply Red): "That's all I've got to say......"

The part in the large red oval is the air injection tube(s). The other is a water neck that runs water into the intake. The carb guys will have to tell you how to get around that one. If it unscrews (I don't recall if it does...I'm and EFI guy) you can remove it and put a brass plug in it's place.

I've got both but Harbor Freight carries one that even better for this use and only costs about 6 bucks. It lighter and smaller which helps to keep you from hitting things you don't want to hit and has a brass facing on one side of the head and a nylon facing on the other.

Yeah, I didn't get that either. I you have 'power through the fuseable link' as you say then the next stop on that trail is the fuse box. I'd test that fusible link to make sure you have power 'through' it rather than just 'to' it.

Generally speaking, by the time the 280Z was released, Nissan had considerably improved their electronics skills. Things like shunts, fusible links, and larger gauge wire were added to the system and would generally circumvent the need for added relays unless you were addidng some type of higher performance lighting. Wiring problems on 280Zs are generally caused by corrosion at the connections or previous owner hacks/lack of maintainence rather than the inadequacies of the wiring system itself.

The size of the garage was what made me decide on this house. I took my wife a couple of years to realize that:D

Nice job! What are you going to do with the second story? I've got that stuff in my 'Z cave', no big screen in the garage though; (55" in the sunroom and 50" in the living room), lots of tools and (and security), about the same floorspace; before I put in the shelving and racking, I could fit three cars in it but I wish I had that second story! It's a vaulted ceiling so I could build a loft if I ever get around to it.

Thieves will find that 'Attention thieves' announcemant whether it's blatant, subtle, intended, or non intended. That would be why Sean posted sort of a disclaimer in the ad. You can't assume that the kit will be used either fraudulently or legitimately as a seller; that's in the hands of the buyer. There are many legitametely sold items that are used for purposes other than what they were intented for. Everywhere; not just on eBay.

Are you sure it's not just your brake lights? If so, either the stopper on the pedal is broken, the brake like switch is bad or out of adjustment. If your actual taillights stay on then you have a short in the light switch.

I thought I nailed it. His bar is aftermarket, not stock. I would think that the curved part is for driveshaft clearance and should be pointing downward instead of upward.

For instance the Nissan parts.cc price is MSRP-$469.03 and their price-$369.32 for either hood.

65100-E4100 was the original part number up to 7/76 but it supercedes to 65100-N4200. The later 8/76 up hood with holes for the louvers is 65100-N4800.

I made this a couple of years ago out of aluminum tubing and a K&N cone. I decided to make my own because the commercially available ones don't come far enough over and basically end up with the filter behind the left turn signal and I wanted it in the center. Does it out perform a stock system with a K&N drop in? Not really sure. Perhaps psychologically because you can hear it but I'm not certain I can really feel any difference.

For those of us who have tried just about everyting out there, like myself, regardless of what any 'expert' may tell you, Will nailed it:

Carl, my comments had to do strictly with the damper. I was referring to the the part of it that sticks up and is towards the front of the car in fixitman's picture. It should go towards the rear. It's not rubber, I did a quick glance under my car to see it's orientation and I see that part is the same material as the rest of the damper. What I said was based on the stock bar on my 78 280Z. I'm not sure that a 260Z had a rear sway bar looking at the 74 FSM.

I replaced the pins with plastic brads that I got from Ace hardware when I worked there. They are black plastic and are the same diameter as the original pins but they have a small head on them that doesn't allow them to go through the rivet which makes them easy to remove. I bought all they had which was 22 at the time and they never got anymore in. The problem is that they changed suppliers and they no longer carry them and I've not seen those at other hardware stores. To answer ToXIc's question, the OEM part number is 90909-E4100. Whether or not they're available is another story......

First of all, your damper is mounted backwards. The rubber part goes toward the rear of the car. Secondly, I also think your sway bar is upside down as the curved part is there to allow for clearance between the bar and the driveshaft/yoke. That must be and aftermarket bar. The stock bar is straight so it clears without hitting anything.

John, if I were you I'd grab those three and take my chances at finding another one. When I bought four for my car in 2005, I was told that the ones I bought were among the last 20 or so available from Nissan. And they were about $28 ea. then.

I'm sure the Nissan dealer employee was referring to the connectors rather than the headlamps but the answer still sucks. I'd be on the phone to corporate headquarters with that person's name, which dealership she works at, and a desicription of her response to the question. And leave the eBay headlights alone. A lot of that stuff is ricer type crap. Your local auto parts store has the correct 6024 or H6024 headlamps.

Connect a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the fuel rail and watch the fuel pressure while it's running and when it begins to and ultumately dies out. If it drops, you've got a probelem with the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, or somewhere in the fuel delivery. If it reamins constant at around 36.3 psi, the problem is elsewhere.

You were given some answers are in the other (Alumiseal) thread.

This one? A little too 'personalized' for my taste. Beyond that, I don't get into the 'Z Police' thing and point out all of the things that are 'wrong' with the car since I have no plans of buying it. I'm with you, Arne, on the gold car.

A lot of that stuff in not OEM Nissan. That 77 5 speed emblem is NLA as are the 77-78 bumper ends and are somewhat hard to find in good condition. All in all, that might be a good buy for someone who needs the stuff depending on how high the price goes. Most of that stuff I already have spares of except the bumpers which I don't need.