sblake01

I don't know, a couple of guys on that site thought the car was fixable:

AC and power steering made three row pulley necessary on the all the 810s and all the ZXs. Since the S30 didn't have power steering a two row pulley was all that was needed even with AC.

I used it to fix a radiator leak in a 510 I once owned. I had gone to San Francisco and I noticed the leak just before I started back. It stopped the leak long enough for me to get home. That was a 400+ mile run in the summer in California. I repaired the radiator and flushed the cooling system soon after I got home. So I don't really have any idea of how it is for long term use as I also used it as a 'quick fix' and repaired properly it as soon as I could.

Keep us posted. How did you get around the three row pulley problem? Nissan did it by moving the fan on the ZX forward which is not an option on the 280Z.

What a difference a week makes! Fuel shouldn't go bad in just a few weeks. How much fuel system cleaner was in it? It takes a while for that to clear out but the car sounded pretty good to me though the idle was a little low IMO. You don't really need a multimeter with all of those functions. I have one that measures voltage, current flow, resistance, frequency, temperature, diode continuity, transistor hFE, dwell angle, and engine rpm. Haven't had it out of it's box in at least 6 months. I usually use the cheap little meter that I bought form Harbor Freight for $2.99. About the brakes, I've never attempted to drive one w/o front or rear brakes so I can't say much about that. The volt meter is tied into the fuel gauge ground. If it worked before it will work when you plug the connector onto the fuel sending unit. Z clocks are always subject to failure. Luckilly my original clock works but that puts me in the minority. Brake lines are always tough when they've been undisturbed for a long period. I use a flare wrench and tap it with a small hammer a few times and that usually works for me. But if they're the least bit rounded, it becomes kind of iffy. The headlights are the basic Sylvania H6024 or equivalent 7" dual beam. I'd check the circuit first or the continuity of the bulbs before replacing them.

The tach and clock problem wouldn't be related to the thermotime/water temp senor wires being switched. Nor would the temperature gauge reading as it has it's own sensor, the one with the single bullet connector. Which ignition module do you have? If it's the matchbox on the side of the dist., then it also came from a ZX because a 77 wouldn't have had that type of dist. from the factory.

Thank you for that, Lonny! I was about to answer Craig's post. I will say to him that over here we only had the 260Z in 74. I'll just add that there was a early(74) and a late(74.5) big bumper version.

Well these days there's also another factor involved. If I were to buy another Datsun, I'd likely end up having to sleep with it instead of my wife!

Cycling, Bikes? As in human powered two wheeled vehicles as opposed to motorcyles? If that's the case I don't see how that experience would help much with cars. Please don't misunderstand the intent of my statememt. It's just curiosity as to how you think that might help with cars on a closed track. I rode motocross and street bikes for years in my younger days and, IMO, not much of that experience other than the sheer competetive aspect really transferrs over to cars.