sblake01

I guess so but that wouldn't be much of a selling point considering that's 32 years ago.

That is true but I doubt that the engine came from a '76 260z' since he's in the US. More that likely, the person that told him that was somewhat uninformed in the area of Datsunology(!).

I'll see how many of the I can find pics of. I know I don't have any pictures of the 70 or the 72 240Z, or any of the 510s I had except. the blue one. I really wasn't into taking photos of cars until the digital age. I'll have to go through the old family pictures to see what I can find but it won't be all of them.

I don't know if I should post pictures of all the Datsuns I've owned. Does Mike have enough bandwidth? Remember, I'm 58 years old, have owned over 50 cars in my lifetime and about 1/2 of them were Datsuns, another roughly 15 were Nissans.

I have the equipment to clean and flow test them at home. It's just 'luck of the draw' to have a matched set. You take any two 'identical' injectors and there will almost always be at least a slight variation in the flow rates. As long as there's not a drastic difference among the 6, they're fine for normal use. They batch fire so as long as there's adequate flow from each injector, the slight variance won't really matter in any way you'd really notice. Racers might want a higher and matched flow rate. I mark the ones I test and match them so that each one in the set of 6 is as close as possible to the others. Each of my cars have matched sets or at least they matched when I put them in.

You probably cleaned a clog out of nozzke in the injector with the Seafoam. Sometimes that works somtimes it doesn't because the Seaafoam has to travel through the entire fuel system. The most effective way to clean them is the manner described in my previous post above with a professional strength cleaner like Pro Ject-R Kleen. In fact that's the only way you can use that type of solution. If you put in the gas tank it would likely damage something in the fuel system along th way. But, I digress. If you've not done so yet, I'd suggest a new fuel filter at this point.

Are you saying that the car ran fine after the Seafoam treatment? If so, change the oil and check again for the fuel smell in the oil in about a week. It's likely that the fuel smell in the oil was already there before the Seafoam treatment. The only way to really check an injector for leaking is off the car with a pressurized fuel injector cannister cleaner, a container to catch the fuel, and the tester on the left in post #7.

I don't really care for the screwdriver test. I prefer to use a stetescope because it isolates the sound better than a screwdriver. If you hear a click from each injector, and you're certain that the problem is with the injectors and not the ignition system, then one them could be either leaking or clogged. Look at your spark plugs. If one is wet with fuel, the injector on that cylinder is leaking. You can use a standard 9 volt battery or a rechargable 9 volt battery, it doesn't really matter. The amperage of the charger isn't really important as long as it's designed to charge 9 volt batteries. Other than that, the tester is just an old injector connector, a 9 volt battery holder from Radio Shack, and a push button momentary switch which completes the circuit when pushed.

He has a 73, according to his profile.

With a molded opening for the hatch lock? That sounds like the 'dealer installed' one on my car.

And the title!

I agree. Evidentally, my car had the emblems removed by the dealer, or whoever the dealer subletted the job to, in order to put the BRE type spoiler on it. I just spoke to the previous owner, who bought it new, and he said that's how it was when he took delivery, rear spoiler, window louvers, dual mirrors, 'BPE' wheels, and aftermarket ARA air conditioning. Apparently, they filled the holes and spot painted or repainted the deck. I couldn't tell which and I've since had it repainted. Rather ambitious for a 'dealer installed' mod. When I bought it, the emblems were in the glove box, pins intact. I removed the pins and mounted them on the deck with 3M Automotive Acrylic Plus Attachment Tape.

I have several vin tags on the wall in my garage basically being "used as I see fit".

I doubt that the L20E injectors are smaller than the L28E injectors. In the US, and I'm sure in other parts of the world too, Nissan used the same injector that they used on the L28E on the L24E as well as 4 cyl engines like the Z20E, Z22E, and CA20E. I would think the only difference would be the length of the fuel injector pulse on the particular vehicle. Besides, if that were the case, how would you 'tune' it? The JECS ECUs have nothing in them that can be altered. They're not an EPROM type unit that can be programmed. They're just a circuit board in a box.

Larry, if you you're happy, I'm happy fou you. I won't buy from him, and I have my reasons. Whatever he's calling himself these days

Things were probably different by 78 but my Z came with a dealer installed rear spoiler and the emblems were removed. I put the 'Datsun' and '280Z' emblems back on the deck just above the spoiler.

This would be something to ponder for one part of my argument, which is not really an argument but more just a personal opinion. And it has to do with what I said about 240Zs not yet reaching the stature of some of the other collectable cars. How many F500 240Zs were made, about 500? And how many Superbirds were built? In 1970, NASCAR raised the homologation requirement from 500 to one for every two dealers in the United States. That meant Plymouth had to build 1,920 Superbirds. So there were more Superbirds than F500 240Z and still the Superbird commands a much higher price.

We've discussed that fuel pump here in the past. Can't find the thread right now but the opinion I expressed on that pump is the general consensus. Run it for as long as it works but when it starts to die, take it back and get your money and replace it with an OEM pump.

The previous three posts just fortifiy my contention. They are, like anything else, 'worth' what someone is willing to pay for them at the time.

Yeah, I've done some experimenting with that myself. I have a exhaust analyzer so I'm not afraid to mess with the AFM adjustments. A couple of years ago, I did some tinkering and actually got the car to run half way decent without the evap hooked up but the fuel/expansion tank pressure you mentioned was actually kind of scary, the fuel economy decreased, and no way would it pass smog. I came to the conlcusion that I should just hook it all back up and set the AFM back to how it was. I've not researched it any further.

Well, that's why I put the word in brackets. It's not really callibrated per se but it's designed to run with the evap system intact. By that I mean that the mixture, the fuel pulse, etc. are all set through the various sensors to work with the fuel vapor that is drawn into the intake from the cannister purge line. The more throttle you give it, the more vapor is drawn in. Since it designed to work that way, I don't know what you'd do to compensate for that function if it wasn't there.

Same color and same wheels (or at least similar) as #488.

I believe that the 75-76 280Z fuel tank will fit a 240Z. I know that the 77-78 tank won't. It's larger.

I'd fix it. It ties in with the fuel vapor venting system and the EFI is 'calibrated' to run with it hooked up and functioning properly. These cars run bad when the carbon cannister is clogged or has a dirty filter. It would take a bit of re-engineering to remove the entire system and everything else work the way it should. JMO.

Oh, I don't know. What you put in it is not what it's worth to anyone but you. Especially in the case of a 77 like yours, or a 78 like mine. I have far less than half of that in mine and have been able to drive and enjoy it from virtually the first day I bought it. But many times more 280Zs were made than 240Zs. So, how do you define worth? I still contend that it's what someone is willing to pay. Lots of variables there but I've seen low number cars that I wouldn't want to own because of the way I use a car. I like to drive them, not look at them. I don't care what others think of them. There is no set 'book' on what a 240Z is worth, regardless of what anyone says. They just haven't reached that stature yet. And as much as people will argue the point, I don't think they will in my lifetime. The only reason I'd be interested in 488 is because I once owned it. I was the first new car I ever purchased. Just a pipe dream. Sentimental value. I wouldn't be willing to spend upwards of 20-30K or more just to relive those days.