sblake01

If you're going to use teflon tape on automotive AC, I'd recommend the yellow teflon rather than the more common white. It's designed for gas line connetions, it's thicker and will withstand higher pressures.

That's right! If they told me, they'd have to kill me........

You're a little late....... http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43486-The-most-expensive-Z-ever-offered-for-sale....-300-000

You might have a tough time finding out. A friend and I looked into that a few years back. From what they told us it's a 'trade secret'. They said that it's a C.A.R.B. and V.O.C. compliant mineral spirit/petroleum hydrocarbon and that's all they would tell us.......

You don't have a Harbor Freight Tools near you? http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html

No problem with either.

The reinforcements go on the outside between the bolts and the pan. Only the gasket and sealer goes between pan and the block.

Looks like a stock hood with a little bodywork done at the front of the bump.

Yeah, that falls under 'ask me how I know'. I'd take any of the three S30's I once owned over the 84 Vette but the way I came across it, I couldn't pass it up.

Whatever you do, don't get one from an 84 Vette. It might actually lower the value......

The valves on your gauge set.

Andrew, I think the 10:1 ratio would be more applicable in a R134a system. It's a little lower like 7-7.5:1 with an R12 system in my experince. I have a big shop fan that I place directly in front of the car when charging in hot weather. dcruz, like Andrew said, charge on the low side and check your readings with both valves closed. I don't ever open the high side valve on the changing manifold with the engine running.

And you think that it's okay to hijack this thread in order to sell your car? Your first post here on your first day here??

I can only approximate because there are factors like ambient temperature, engine RPM, etc., but generally I'd say 35-44 on the low side to roughly 200-225 on the high side @1500 RPM. The minimun capacity of that system is 1.5 lbs and the max is 2.0.

Maybe off topic a bit but how can you say 'original miles' on a car with a 5 digit odometer and such an uncertain paper trail?

On those compressors the low side port is on the back and the high side is on the top. Gauges are gauges. All they do is read pressure. What you need is R134a adapters that screw onto the compressor ports. That would allow you to use your gauges you have.

If it's factory AC, it's a Hitachi SWP 123.

I realize that you addressed your question to John but I've done this a few times myself w/success in California over the years which is also where John lives. I have no idea if and/or how different the Pa. DMV's procedures are from Ca.

I don't see the need for that. I've made a countless number of hoses over the years without adhesive and have never had one leak at the crimp.

I looked at that one when I was looking for a crimper. I ended up getting the Atco 3700 because it looked to be a little easier to use. It cost me a little more but I've used it enough over the years to make it cost effective.

I believe 10/70 would be after the differential was moved.

Neither my 78 280Z or my 79 810 ever did that except when there was a problem with either the aforementioned items in post #2. The dashpot, which basically keeps the throttle from closing abruptly when you let off the pedal, was the anti stall device.

To each his own however mine is much easier to make and to use........

Check your BCDD. If it's a California car, also check the altitude switch.

If you need to test your switch, I made this up a few years back. It shows where the continuity should be with the key in the various positions: