sblake01

Have you checked the plastic electrical part on the back of the switch?

If you're talking about an EFI car, you can put 12 volts to the terminals on the cold start valve for 2-3 seconds and it will release the fuel pressure. I've actually done it with a 9 volt battery. This is what I use. 9 volt batery, momentary switch, an injector connector and some wire:

He hasn't been here since April.......

.....................................................

RedTek12a (as well as Freeze12) is a direct 'drop in' and doesn't require anything retrofitting. I would, at least, pull a vacuum on the system first to remove the moisture and to verify that the system doesn't leak. And, as I said earlier about RedTek12a, it's hydrocarbon based so it does have some flamable material in it's mix. And, about Freeze 12, it's been discontinued so the price is beginning to rise on it but I would still use it over RedTek12a. Here's a link to the RedTek site: http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_prod.html

I live in Southern California. It get's hot here too. Also 100+ degrees. I use R12 (while I still have some) in the Ranger and the 'Vette (my R12 cars). I have used an R12 replacement like Hotshot (R414B) - not my favorite because it seemed to be hard on compressor seals, RedTek12a - worked well but is hydrocarbon based, and Freeze12 - which would be my choice if I didn't presently have a few pounds of real R12 left. Don't care much for the prospect of using R134a in an R12 system because of the higher pressures. Hoses and seals/o rings have to be compatible with R134a which depending on the car, the ones in a R12 system may or may not be, and the design of the condenser and evaporator are such that there isn't enough volume for the proper cycling of R134a. I lucked into my supply but R12 is so expensive when and if you can find it. Not really sure of the cost of hoses made at the shop because I make them myself. The materials are relatively inexpensive but at a shop you'd be paying their mark up on the parts plus the labor.

I've never been in favor of converting R12 systems to R134a. Others claim to have had success doing that but it's not something I would do.

Just curious: What do you get out of this? You're all over the internet on all kinds of forums........

AC supply places like Johnstone Supply carry schrader valves/service ports etc.

I make my own AC hoses especially for the older vehicles but I have the equipment to do so. Find an AC shop that has bulk AC hose, a hose crimper, and the necessary fittings.

He paid for it too......

My opinion would be with him also If that had been what he said rather than making a blaket statement and then trying to defend it by knocking anyone's opinion that differed. Now, I promise, I've got nothing else for this thread. Life is too short.

Seems to me that if everything was okay prior to the clutch going out and the clutch is the only thing you changed it would have to be the culprit. Why would you suddenly need a shroud if you didn't before?

The AAC vavle is located on the intake manifold and looks pretty much like an EGR valve. It's the furthest forward of the two. You have to look in the EF section of the 1981 turbo suppliment as it's not shown in the regular 1981 280ZX FSM.

I had that trans (84 Maxima) in my 78. The fill on the other side didn't cause any problems. And it mounts exactly the same as the Z/ZX 5 speeds.

That looks to be some type of cooling system sealer.

The word of three guys that 'do it for a living' coupled with the fact that the four vehicles I presently own with electric fuel pumps are 'deadheaded'. Not trying to take sides here but, as they say, I'm just sayin'......

If you still have the stock 3.36 differential, acceleration though 1st and 2nd won't be as crisp as your stock 4 speed. Most of the 5 speed cars had 3.54 and up.

It says it on the back.

As long as it's not Castrol 'Syntec' gear oil. That is GL-5. I have part of a container that was left over from working on my daughter in law's Lincoln LS. On the label it says 'Fully synthetic, API GL-5 and MT-1, SAE 75W-90 formula'.

Do you mean 'close ratio'? The would be the 80 and up, 5th gear notwithstanding. Not sure what you mean by better or worse. As far as installation, there's no difference in how any of them would mount in a 71.

So you've told us:

It might be to match the wear pattern if you're putting the old one back in, I'm not really sure. The factory service manual doean't mention marking the position.

That and the fact that flex fans, or at least the one I had, state in the instructions what the clearance between the fan and the radiator shoud be. I'm thinking that if one flexed to the point that it damaged the radiator, those instructions weren't followed. As far as sticking your hand into one...well I've never done that with any type of automotive (or other) fan. My brother and I ran flex fans on other vehicles we owned back in the day and never had any of the problems mentioned above.

I've never put much stock in that instruction. I guess that's if you are putting the old pressure plate back in. Generally speaking, if I'm going in there, I'm putting new stuff in in which case marking its position would be moot.