sblake01

I don't know how much this helps but here's a couple of adjacent entries from the Z register. There are none inbetween on the list. VIN:HLS30 66605 Production Date:02/72 Color Body /Int :904 White / Red Orig.Eng.Number:L24 082281 Owner:Jerry Cole City/State/Cntry:Fremont, CA USA VIN:HLS30 67589 Production Date:09/72 Color Body /Int :918 Orange/Black Orig.Eng.Number:L24-84550 Owner:Gregory Santy City/State/Cntry:Lille, France

The bottom one goes to the block breather tube and the top one goes to the air box.

Flow guide valve. IIRC the bottom hose goes to the tube on the engine block and the top one goes to the air cleaner. The long one is probably still hooked up to your expansion tank.

Nice work but you really should consider putting this info in a journal since a thread with 'hundreds or thousands of photos would be somewhat tedious.

My car had that symptom when my heater tee had a small leak. At first, I only would notice the fogging when the wheather was cold or rainy then it became more noticable as the leak got worse. I hope that's not the case for you because that wasn't a real enjoyable repair.

Starting this thread was fine. It's just the direction it has taken which is not your fault. One member who has gone on and incredible tangent that has absolutely nothing to do with your topic, has even taken the time to explain his comments which, IMO, was even less necessary than making the comments in the first place.

I think this has gone far enough. There's that 'we' again. I don't talk like that and I've never been to Africa. I'm not offended, just wondering why the comment had to be made.

The Nissan inflator is not a 'slime' type product. It's simply compressed air and is only desgned to inflate, not repair. The electric inflator is a good idea unless you have simultaneous electrical and tire problems.

Or a pound. I know my intent when I post but I can't really expect anyone else to know it anymore than I can imagine the possible interpretations by others. I think it's admirable what Ron has done in apologizing but I also think it's a bit over sensitive of the person who pm'd him to react that way on a public forum. 'WE'? That person doesn't speak for me any more that anyone here does. Nor do I speak for anyone else here. Who would want that responsibility?

Can't make it. Ontario, California is only 10 miles from me. Ontario, Canada is a bit farther.

If you're asking me, it was about 8 years ago. I ran over a nail.

I can contribute the 76 and 82 FSM's.

Though I'm not sure that it will clear a big brake upgrade since it's on a 14" rim, the 'flat spare' works. I have one in my 78. The can of air or Tire Inflator as Nissan calls it is still available. Though not the original, they work fine and I've bought two them over the years. Part number 999M1-300ZX. I'd rather have a new one than take my chances with a used one on eBay. The drawback to them might be the cost--about $70.

The entire switch with the connector is under $10 plus shipping at nissanparts.cc as I said in the linked post and it's still available.

The snow tires on the 240 would make me wonder if a modified 73 that has been driven in the snow is worth $9500. What does 'a little TLC on the body' really mean?

You can buy the entire switch which fits in place of the large blanikng plate. Check out my post in another thread. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=211492#post211492

Try this: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/exhaust%20and%20muffler%20L28%20cal%20dec%2074.gif

I said 2004 but actually it was 2003. http://www.suncoastzcarclub.homestead.com/club_carz_Moschettos.html

I met Scott and Vicky at the MSA show, I believe in 2004 when the ZRush car took Best of Show. I remember talking to Scott about Datsuns and music since my brother is a drummer and I play sax and keyborard. Very sad news indeed.

It's part of the emission control system and it absorbs fuel vapor. The carbed S30's have the cannister also.

Remove the three hoses (carefully), pull the clamp that holds the cannister in place, hold the rubber base that it sits in and lift the cannister out. Turn it over and you'll see the filter.

Yes, but that's the ultra-rare 1973 Turbo model (invisible turbo) with the special VIN.

Good catch, I missed that part and went straight to the rotor not facing #1.

You need to remove your oil pump and rotate the shaft until its in the position that allows your rotor to point to #1. I don't know the answer to the second question since I always bolt them down when I install them.