sblake01

I notice that 00488 has never shown up on the registry. I once owned it in fact I bought it new from Pomona Valley Datsun. I wonder whatever became of it.

Since I never really have to lift the jack, I don't think aluminum is such a big deal. I bought my 2 ton from Costco nearly 15 years ago and have had no problems with it.

This is what I was trying to show in the last post. How can you remove the headlamp before you remove the headlamp case? <a href="http://tinypic.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i18.tinypic.com/40fvzie.jpg" border="0" alt="Image and video hosting by TinyPic"></a>

I'm beginnig to understand what your going through! This is from the 82 FSM

I guess I didn't address the original question. I get so fired up when I hear someone mention vapor lock on the EFI cars. Take the carbon canister out being careful not to break the plastic nipples that the hoses plug on to. Remove the filter from the bottom and soak it in in solvent and dry it out. Spray carb cleaner into the nipples on the canister and blow them out with low pressure comprssed air. Reassemble everything and you should be good to go.

It's in the IZCC Z Regisrty: VIN:HLS30 00051 Production Date: 10/ 69 Color Body /Int :Green/Tan Orig.Eng.Number:L24 002239 Owner:Charlie Dever City/State/Cntry:Pasadena, CA IZCC Member#: Comments: e-mail: Date Registered:15/04/96

This is not a case of 'they say'. I'm telling you fact. And I'm not talking about 'Holley projected Chevys', I'm talking about 75-83 (84 if you count the Maxima) Nissan EFI. If you think the fan works for that purpose that's fine. I have two cars w/o injector fans and I've never experienced vapor lock. And I live in Southern Califronia and you know how hot it gets here in the Summer. I've had the symptoms you describe on my 810 but it was caused by a bad check valve. If the check valve doesn't hold, the fuel pressure has to build up before the car will start except when it's cold when the cold start system will get it going. This is the location of the check valve.

Allow me to properly parse that url for you, webdawg. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/front%20panels%20l26%20l28%20%20fr%20aug%2073.gif

There is no such thing as vapor lock on a fuel injected car. The fuel pressure is high enough to prevent it. The purpose of those fans was not to prevent vapor lock but to lower the temperature of the fuel mixture which supposedly lowers emissions. If the fans were there to prevent vapor lock then why were't they also on the 810s and Maximas built for the 79 and up model year? The attempt to lower the temp of the fuel mixture on those cars was done by having the air intake above and away from the heat of the radiator.

As far as I know, all U.S. 240Z built in 1969 were 1970 model year cars. Some people like to call their early production cars '1969' but they were built way after the cutoff for that model year which is usually around July/August.

IIRC, you have an 83ZXT. Sounds like somehow your fuel pressure is leaking down. When the car is cold, the cold start system will start it but when it's warm, if the pressure is low, it has to build back up before the car will start. This could be caused by a bad check valve at the fuel pump, leaking injectors, or a leak in anything else in the EFI system that is supposed to hold pressure. As far as trobleshooting it, I defer to the ZX guys since there are differences between S130 turbo EFI, and S30 EFI which is what I'm used to working on.

Since you gave no info as to what year Z or even if you mean front or rear, I'm assuming you mean front. Look through this thread and it should help you identify what you're looking for. As far as actually finding them? Well that's kind of discussed here too. This is an old thread and they weren't easy to find when it was current. You'll have to read down to about post #11 before we all got on the same page (so to speak). http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12181&highlight=Fender+liners

I'd have to agree with you on that. Especially having to remove the fenders. Even on a ZX. You must be missing something in the instructions. I doubt if the car is engineered in such a way that the fenders have to come off in order to change a headlight. If that is the case, I'll add that to my list of reasons why I have the opinion of the ZX that I do but I won't digress any farther on that thought. It's a PITA to change them on my 78 with removing the inner fender liners, front tires, etc. but it can be done with the fenders on.

I hope you mean B6ES or you're missing the point of this thread.

That's where I'll be. I went last year. It's a great drive and I actually enjoy it more than MSA. Maybe it's the 600 car thing plus there's more to do in Solvang than in Orange.

I've had no problems with the stock setup. I clean the contacts and terminals occasionally and I guess that's why.

Okay, I'll say it since no one else has but this looks kinda 'Mickey-Mouse' to me. I can understand the fuse kits like Greg showed, but how is this better than the stock setup?

I have a roll up door. I don't have a lift but if I did the door tracks would be in the way as well as the door when it's rolled up. Unless the lift is mounted behind the are where the door tracks end which in my case is about 10 feet into the garage. I could see it working with the door closed if your lift was centered between the track and the screw drive/motor.

It was pretty common. I have the same one on my 810. I occaisonally see them on eBay and I think Norman at OEM Surplus has a few of them.

No, the sensor probe fits between the fins in the evaporator not the condenser. Take caution not to kink the tube. The Honda compressor should work fine if you can get it mounted and connected to the system.

That looks to be a Hitachi MJ167 which is a factory installed compressor. They're pretty much the color of yours, minus the rust. If it worked when it was on the 260, I'd try it out first before going to the expense of having it rebuilt. I've installed a few straight from the junkyard (after leak testing them) and they still worked.

To anwer atrohog's question as it was posed: Yes, that would work since all you'd be doing is replacing the original power wire with the one from your stereo. Don't do your usual job of making simple things seem complicated, Tomo, please.

I didn't want to add to this thread until I did a little research. Nissan/Datsun made an antenna switch to use if you replaced the original radio but still wanted to use the original antenna. It goes in the the large slot where the wide blanking plate is below the radio. I couldn't find a part number to check the availability but then I saw in in an eBay auction. Someone actually paid an eBay seller $167.50 for one of these! I won't link to the auction but I don't have a problem leeching his pictures. They are still available through www.nissanparts.cc for $9.12 plus shipping and they plug right into the harness. 99993-00370. That is one of my pet peeves about the Datsun hobby.

The 'solid wire' as you're calling it is most likely the capillary tube that inserts between the fins of the evaporator to sense the temperature and turn off the compressor when it gets too cold to prevent they system from icing up. The drain tube does connect to the bottom of the ac unit to drain condensation to the outside instead of on your inner firewall/floor/carpet etc.

Supposed to? No. but I guess that's up to you. This was a discussion about alternatives to the rubber plugs that were originally installed.