sblake01

Those aren't what the OP posted, however.

I would say that they are interchangable. I've switched them between my 78 280Z and my 79 810 which uses the same air reg as a 79 ZX (22660-N4210) and they worked the same on either vehicle.

Spambot from Philippines:http://www.stopforumspam.com/ipcheck/203.87.176.21

Yeah, that kind of took me aback also. The vinegar might be okay but the salt, calcium chloride, dill, etc. would worry me. I've used torch tip cleaners and Lime Away which is similar to CLR with success.

If you can't find one, any good AC shop can replicate that hose using your old hose ends with new crimps, and new hose.

My 66 Mustang had that awful large box unit under the dash. (Mine also had power steering) It actually cooled better than the York system used in the 240Zs. I installed a Vintage Air system in my brother in law's custom 58 Chevy station wagon. It cools that big 'greenhouse on wheels' as well as any modern factory equipped car.

Since you speak of 'brutal summers', I doubt that you'd really ever be happy with either the 70s aftermarket type of system or the MSA system, which is pretty much the same thing, as Arne pointed out. The drawback of those systems has to do with where the evaporator is mounted, in the passenger footwell. A system, like the Vintage Air system, is based on a center mounted evaporator like most factory installed systems and provide far more efficient cooling because of the shorter path of air travel. They don't have to pull the cooled air through the system to the center and then force it back through the vents.

Looking at the parts microfiche, the part number for the BPT vavle up to 7/77 supercedes to the part number for 8/77 and up so I'd say that one would work on your 77.

Makes me think of the early 70s VW ad that said ''The VW will definitely float, but it will not float indefinitely.''

And maybe someday you might even really own a ZZZap since you don't presently. You and Mr. Melnick should really do more research.

Funnier than the 'decal delete'?

Also, didn't we conclude a few years ago, that since Sun Yellow isn't a special, extra cost color, unlike the Black used on the BPE in 1978, that a yellow 77 w/o the SAP is not a ZZZap? Mr. Beck, are you watching? What's your take?

I had one of those plaques on the console of my 320 Pickup. Same Datsun emblem. You could buy them various places 'back in the day' including whatever engraving you specified or, I did, order it blank and have it engraved at you local trophy shop.

I was going to say......

I basically only used it to make sure my Z and 810 were in spec prior to emissions testing. I'd run them at 2400-2500 rpm, which is the range the California test is taken in and turn the bypass screws until in gave the lowest CO reading. At that RPM, you only get a minor range of adjustment. The only time I had a real problem with CO on either of them is when the 810 needed a catalytic converter likely caused by a rich condition because of a bad temp sensor a few months earlier coupled with the age of the cat itself. As soon as I solved the temp sensor problem and replaced the cat, the car was back in spec, CO wise.

The smog test in California, both the 15 and 25 mph tests, are done in an area where the TPS would be in that middle position anyway, off-idle and full trhottle both open, which is what you're referring to as 'lean cruise' so I don't think that's your problem. What's the condition of your cat?

That's the one although they both look like later models.

It's a rather primitive system that is often over thought when trying to troubleshoot it. The two screws are somewhat redundant, IMO. They're on opposite sides of the same bypass port in the AFM so they both do the same thing, which is allow the engine to run with the flap closed. And once the flap is open enough, they don't really do anything. I use a Gunson Gastester to test CO. Bought it years ago when they were somewhat reasonable and it still works fine.

I just want add that I said 'basically only affects the idle'. To be a little more accurate, based on tests I've done, I should have said that the more the flap is open, the less effect the bypass screws have. This is important for California emissions testing since that is done at part throttle in an area where the bypass screw adjustment would still have some effect.

I wouldn't touch the bypass screws w/o something to monitor the changes in both AFR and CO (which I do have). That being said there's really not much to gain from adjusting them (as Rob said) since the changes will basically only affect the idle.

Randy, that's a year+ old post. I'm aware that Elvan works out of his home. I was just answering the question about whether or not the shop was still open. I guess I could have elaborated. I thought I had mentioned him working from home in other threads.

That's your relay bracket. It goes above the fusebox on the passenger side. It's on the lower right hand corner of page BE-6 (Body Electrical section) in the 1976 FSM.

Hagerty insurance isn't for everbody and definately not for the OP. I was insured by them for 12 years with no problems and their service was exemplary when my car got stolen. The car came better then it was before the claim.

Whether it fits or not, this site has changed......

Like this one?