sblake01

If the valve is closed (or stuck closed) the coolant would bypass the core. The second issue would have to do with the vaccum operated mode doors.

If it feels cold when the engine is running then the water isn't getting to the heater core. Sounds like the valve is stuck closed or something is blocking the flow of water to the core. This is from my 78 280Z FSM.

This is the best I could find. It's from Haynes as I don't have anFSM for a 260Z.

The vacuum lines could be important. I'm not sure if a 260Z has the vacuum operated mode door actuators that the 280Z w/factory air had. If so, they could be the source of your problem. Further research shows that it does.

They appear to be gone. They guy has lots of parts but doesn't seem to know what they really are.

I just thought that this would fit here.

Depends on what car it was designed for. In the J30 it has a front sump. Don't know what Australian model that coincides with.

If he's satisfied with that as the fix, I think we're done here.

Have you checked the heater valve?

To each his own. I have two cars with the EFI system and have never considered converting them to carbs. A combined 13+ years of 'hitting the key and driving off everytime'. Sure, on a couple of occaisions I had to fix a problem but I have the knowlege to do so. They're not all that misterious. Not to knock what you do at all. If I had a 240 or 260Z, I would be most likely running your carbs.

Tiger face? Do you mean the Datsun lion? Some people wrongly refer to it as a Griffin but it's a lion. Those are still available through Rallye Enterprises.

I read his other posts and his profile which made me skeptical. Wasn't sure who he was but it was obvious that he's 'having a go at us' as they say. If it is the 'Dog' the best thing we could do is ignore him.

Datsun Comp. or Nissan Motorsports made one but I don't think it's still available.

Some get it, some don't.

Ditto, great weather and the Z doesn't need anything both of which are strange thoughts.

Again, I Say Two Year Old Thread!

Not really a Christmas present but I did install some 1" tweeters in both the Z and the 810 recently.

4 x 4.5" or 4 X 114.3mm.

Two year old thread. The stuff you linked to is quite pricey. I can buy 10 feet of hose with my discount for less than Whitney sells the 18" piece.

Sounds like you have a 76. It's not uncommon to hear that a vehicle that sold late in the model year got titled as the next year. Do your bumpers look like mine (in my avitar) or do they have the rounded corners?

This chart shows 113 and 907 for 240Z's but no 940. http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

If you go in there, be careful! Take it from someone who's been working on Datsun EFI for some time now. Don't open the "Air Box" which is actually the air flow meter unless you have to. You can screw up quick if you don't know what you're doing. Do a search for the 'EFI Bible'. You find a lot of useful troubleshooting info there. There are a few things that can cause it to run lean and there is no quick snap answer.

That's how they adjust on my 78 280Z as well as on my 79 810. By pulling up the emergency brake. But you have to get the drums on first. When replacing the shoes, I always back off the adjustment before I put the new shoes on. The drum will slide on easily then I tighten the adjustment with the star wheel until I have just a slight contact between the shoes and drums. Put it all back together, wheels back on, hit the pedal a couple of times, and adjust it the rest of the way by holding the release button on the emergency brake lever in and pulling the lever up three or four times. Done. And Bill, unless your drums were in really bad shape, they should have gone on. I've never had that problem. And by the way, Hey78isgreat, welcome! What part of Ontario do you live in? My brother lives there and I'm just a few miles away.

The snaps should be the type that mount in the carpet rather than drill into the floor. At least, that's how mine are in my 78 and my carpet is original.

A 3mm (.120in) overbore can be never be risk free. A sonic measurement for core shifting is always recommended before the boring operation.