sblake01

I have to agree w/Jon. Keep the engine clean, do oil changes at the proper intervals, use a quality oil. Those things will offset any benefit of using syntetic oil. I use 10W30 with half a quart of Lucas oil treatment and have seen no evidence of sludge. I have used a product called Whink rust remover for cooling system flushes every couple of years or so. Followed by plain water then the 50/50 antifreeze mix. No problems there either.

My a/c is staying too! I guess the K & N filter, air dam and rear spoiler are supposed to help with fuel economy. My car does okay for what it is. The highest I have ever achieved is 27.49 mpg. It seems to stay in the 23.5-25.5 range which is actually a little better than my daily driver 810 (21-23 with a high of 25.33). I have an 83 ZX five speed in my Z which would top your automatic's readings mpg-wise, but I don't really look upon these vehicles as economy cars. My wife's HHR averages 27-30.

I wonder what the combined weight of my amp, subwoofer & box, cd changer, and tools would be. Doesn't matter though 'cause they're stayin'!

I agree. The 77-78 hood has cutouts made especially for those vents. It would take a pretty adept sheet metal man to replicate them on a non vented hood. Also, your bumpers look pretty good so you should be able to sell them at a fairly good price since they are NLA. The kit on the light color car is from MSA. Fairly easy to install. The one on the dark car looks similar but I'm not familiar with it. I don't care for the 'Camaro' hood scoop or the clear lights, however.

I think those are Western Wheels. I don't know the model name. They had a smooth center cap. Here's a picture of a deeper 15" version. Might be tough to find because I don't think they're in business anymore.

We've seen them before. At nearly 11 grand and it's reserve is not yet met, to me, it has two things going against it. 1.) Price, 2.) 10th anniversary or not, it's still a ZX.

I wouldn't suggest the use of WD40 on electrical connections. It's conductive.

I recently took the 'Mature Drivers Course' offered by the Automobile Club of California. More for the insurance discount than for the improvement of my driving skills but there was some useful information.

Since no one answered what is basically the same question when it was posed 6 months ago, I guess we'll have to wait for Kats next post.

25K for a JDM replica? As Mr. Tyler said, "dream on"!

22401-P8816 is the Nissan part number for a NGK B6ES-11. That's the OEM plug. Not resistor, not projected tip, not platinum, not v-groove, etc. They are abundantly available. If you can't find them, or get the runaround from your local Nissan dealer (gee, imagine that!), just order them from www.nissanparts.cc. That's were I get mine. They even cost less there than at the dealer.

Actually, they're B6ES-II.

Are those the factory alloy rims for the Skyline? Same as the USA 810.

If you're talking about Mohamed, I'm sure you sound just as strange to him. Your comment was totally unnecessary.

Here's a scan of the page from the FSM:

I'll be at Doheny, probably with the L320. I have had things shipped from Australia before. Weatherstripping from Rare Spares, an alloy wheel from a member of Skylines Down Under, etc. I guess it depends on who you deal with.

Lachlan, if possible, get me price on both front and rear. Complete with the trim and the brackets. The shipping would be somewhat bearable if I used Australia Post sea mail like I did when I bought the wheel from over there.

I know that this is not 240K related but it is about a car you guys got that we didn't. How difficult and costly would it be to find and ship a good set of these bumpers w/all mounting hardware trim to the US? I'm not sure of the years that they came on but these are the ones (blue car) that I am interested in not the later ones with the rubber side caps. Would be a definate improvement over what I have now. (brown car)

You might have to use the fittings from you old compressor but other than that, they're the same. The newer Sanden version actually works better than the old Sankyo though the bodies of them are virtually the same. I've heard pros and cons about converting an R12 system to R134A so I use an alternative either HotShot (R414B) or RedTek 12 which is a hydrocarbon refrigerant. Many people are afraid of those but I've used them for three years with no problems. I bought some to test it and have never taken it out of either car. Many shops won't deal with the alternative refrigerants simply because the don't like to have several sets of reclaimation/recycling equipment. I do my own work, so that isn't a problem. If you change the seals, o rings, hoses, etc to R134A compatible ones, I personally don't see why it wouldn't work in an R12 system. I can get 134A for 69 bucks per 30lb. jug! R12 has come down in price somewhat but it can't touch that.

I'm also interested. Let me know the details.

A couple of years ago, I removed the console, the lower dash panels, and even the glove box in order to get to the heater core, a/c, etc. That made it easier to work with the wiring.

The rubber ones are easier to remove and re install if necessary.

That sounds pretty much like any stock 280Z I've ever looked at, including mine. Except there shoud be a piece of carpet pad under each seat. As far as the wiring behind the radio, that also sounds normal. When I worked on my A/C and heater, I cleaned up and straightened out the wiring, and used some zip ties to make it a little neater.

What they said! Besides, your mod defeats part of their purpose. Nissan still sells the rubber ones. I bought a couple for my 810 last year and they were under three bucks ea.

The 74 260Z, and the 75-76 280Z have them where you pictured them. 77-78 have them in the panels behind the seats where Will and Tomohawk described.