sblake01

I think that Tomo is concerned because they sit out farther at the ends than they do the rest of the way, but I also think that is normal.

Not a bad rule if you consider how many people come here to sell something and it turns out to be their one and only post. Not placing you in that catagory, Will, just that it does happen here more often than not. I think there is some confusion here. Andrew bought a set of Cosworths and Will is selling a set. At least I think that I have that right. Cosworth makes high quality stuff but their stuff is better known outisde of the Z fraternity.

It will get there. The bottom of the distributor shaft sits in the top of the oil pump. When the engine runs that shaft will get lubrication.

You know, I think that may be normal. I had them off when my car was painted and that flange tapers outward the last 4 inches or so but the drip rail doesn't get any thicker so it won't go on any farther than that at the end. Both of mine fit flush until they get to that point.

My 78 clock worked when I bought the car 9 years ago and still does. I guess I'm just lucky. Besides rust, also check for the operation of the electrical components such as flashers, turn signals, high/low beams, lights in general, power antenna, heater/ac controls, etc. And also the engine driveability electricals i.e. cold start valve, thermotime switch, air regulator, fuel pressure regulator, etc. Hopefully, the inspector will know the nuances of the Z car.

Nice find, Arne. I'm so used to associating you with the yellow car. The care that this one has had might just offset the fact that is has a sunroof. Really, there is nothing practical you can do about that but I doubt that many would disagree that the 'wires' will have to go. I actually had a set of those on a 620 pickup. Maybe is was the adapters but they were a pain to keep balanced and even harder to keep clean.

Ooops:stupid:

The post is almost a year and a half old. I would imagine he's solved the problem by now! And there is no correlation between the ECU and turn signals on an S30 especially on a 260Z which doesn't even have an ECU.

I'd have to agree with the others that a modded 280Z (cam, exhaust) with high mileage (157k) and a 4 speed rather than a 5 speed seems somewhat overpriced at roughly $8K. At that price I wouldn't even consider buying it without seeing it in person.

I'd make an attempt to if I had the medical expertiseLOL

Tomohawk and I sometimes kind of needle each other. I'm cool with it and I think he is.:classic:

Cool! It even works in the translator again, some of the translations are kind of funny: http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.katysnest.com&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools

Somewhere along the way east from where you are, the 210 becomes the 30. Same freeway.

Ahhh..............

Which school? Claremont is kind of between La Verne and Upland.

No nitpick here either. I was just attempting to give a possible eplaination for the capitals. I also asked about it in the shout box. Just curiousity. The ignore list? No. Like I said, I put him there for other reasons, not the 'trademark'. Anyway, about the car, I was just trying to establish where you were at with it having been through the same thing myself. Let us know what your fuel pressure is and if it's steady. Is the fuel pump an oem fuel pump?

I lived in Covina, West Covina, and Fontana for a while. Even Pomona, Upland, and La Verne. My home is now northern San Bernardino which is just accross the 30/210 from you.

No, I didn't take offense. Maybe I'm too old to deal with carbs. Especially carbs that are a copy of a design that wasn't that good to begin with. All I was saying is that since I've become fairly proficient with Datsun EFI, I don't have any desire to deal with the carbureated cars, Datsuns or otherwise. Like I said, I've owned 240Zs. They are a bit more 'hands-on' than I want to deal with at 56 years old. If I had a 240 now, I'd probably put triple Webers on it but I'd put smaller chokes in them and jet them in such a way where they would work on a stock engine. I'm just not an SU fan. I don't care much for the sliding venturi. It's like a big motorcycle carbureator.

Steel will rot out over time and brass conforms to irregularites better being softer. Brass is actually the better choice.

Well, BuDavid's post kind of leaves me wondering. Yes, it's your opinion, and you are certainly entitled to it, but seems to be based largely on what you've heard rather than what you've experienced, like the majority of people when it comes to cars. I bought my 280Z because it's fuel injected. I've owned 240Zs and at this stage of my life I don't wish to deal with carbureators that are over 30 years old regardless of the fact that you have companies that do overpriced rebuids and throw in a video tape to show you how to set them up. A 260 isn't any 'worse' than any other Z. Any of them will either have the carbs changed to round tops or need it done since that is the general consensus. Again based on the fact that every one seems to feel the flat tops are junk and automatically need to be replaced. Whatever happened to the old saying 'if man built it man can fix it'? But, I digress. Fuel injection just makes for a more reliable daily driver IMO (once it's 'right') and both of my EFI Datsuns are 'right'. It's really a matter of personal choice. Right now, I'd rather drive my cars than tinker with them.

That's what is says at the bottom of the picture from the 'Wick Humble' book.

Never mind the air flow meter. If it has been sitting in a garage for over 20 years, your gas tank is toast! Check your fuel pressure, I'll bet you get a low reading since the pump can't pull through the crud, Been there, done that! And mine only sat for three years. Oh, and the capitalization thing? Well I guess that must be one of those 'trademark' type things like the guy who typed everythng in blue. I forget his name but it doesn't matter since he's on my igrore list for other reasons.

Check out these threads: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20487&highlight=hood+scoop http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22959&highlight=hood+scoop

I just did one of those! Sure beats having to get out of be to turn the fan on or off.

The red wire is for the 'key in the ignition' buzzer which runs through the steering lock switch. Some people disconnect them because they find them to be annoying but that wouldn't affect your starting.