sblake01

It's aftermarket. When I bought the car it had the dealer installed a/c system rather than the factory system. I took measurements and asked the guy at the a/c shop to sell me the largest condenser that would fit in that area. It's considerably larger than the one that the dealer had installed. And a larger condener makes the evaporator's job easier.

Well, it's pretty simple. I have the ARA type aftermarket system on my car. It came with it. I replaced the Sankyo compressor with an newer Sanden compressor which is basically the same compressor since Sanden bought out Sankyo some years ago. But the new ones are a more modern internal design and more efficient. I replaced all of the hoses. I make my own since I own a hose crimper and have access to all of the fittings. I also have a larger condensor than the one that was originally on the car with a pusher fan on the front of it on the side opposite where the lines enter. More air flow over the condenser = cooler temps at the evaporator. Plus I sealed all of the areas under the dash where air could escape. I charged it with R414B (sometimes called Hotshot). I've used Redtek and it was actually actually about 3 to 4 degrees colder but hydrocarbon refrigerants scare me a little although I never had any trouble with it. With the present setup, center vent temp is 28.7 degrees!

Besides, we've been through this before and will most likely go through it again. I say learn what you can learn here. I don't technical questions about my 810 or my 64 320 pickup here but, then again, I don't really ask technical questions anyway. But, I digress. A ZX is not an 'early and original Datsun Z car' as stated in the club welcome on the front page. No one is trying to snub anyone here. It's just that when you ask questions about vehicles that aren't generally covered on a site, you shouldn't expect a landslide of answers to questions like 'how do you decipher the VIN code on a 1980 280ZX?' Pardon me but, 'who the hell cares?' We need to just let this thing go before it gets out of hand (again).

The most attractive part of my Z? Well, the fact that it is trouble free, basically original with a couple of period correct mods and a couple of mods for my comfort and enjoyment. Not a show car by any means but a fairly clean example of the last S30 in the series. Ice cold A/C thanks to a fan on the condenser and a couple of my own tricks. Also, factory opiton items like the alloy rims, rear louver, rear spoiler, and dual 'racing' mirrors. I also added a 6 speaker stereo, cd changer, amp, front air dam, bra, headlight covers, remote oil filters, Accel Super Stock coil, cold air intake, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, 3" tip, ZX five speed, turbo/2+2 clutch, 4.11 rear end, BMW/Saab fuel injector connector conversion, etc. While many Zs out there are works in progress, mine is basically done. Or are they ever done?:classic:

Even my knowlege base which is basically 280Z with a touch of 810 leaves me with much to learn about the ZX. A member asked a question recently about setting the mixture on a ZXT air flow meter. Figuring it was the similar to a 280Z. I scanned diagrams and wrote a short post about the subject. WRONG!! A ZXT afm is totally different as I came to find out. So that makes me reluctant to answer questions specific to the ZX. I have a hell of a lot of experience with the EFI system on a 280Z and even on an 810. But I don't know what of that applies to a ZX or a ZXT and what doesn't. I'm not trying to snub anyone nor do I have my nose up towards them. I just don't feel comfortable answering questions about them due to the differences.

I have five or six of those in a box somewhere in the garage but I wouldn't use them. They're just too old.

What version of nero do you have? I can make MP3 audio cd's with the version I have (6.0 w/plug ins). I've made a couple to play in my wife's HHR and they play fine as well as naming every track. Having the ability to put 140+ songs on a cd eliminates the need for a changer.

Yes, the rear marker lights are backwards.

There is this one in the owner's manual but it doesn't show much.

Out here, we refer to the 'tag' as that little sticker in the upper right hand corner of the license plate with the year on it that California makes you pay so much for every year.

Will these work?

Wasn't the purpose of the 'fix' to eliminate a misalingnment problem with the half shafts? If that is the case the existing ones would work.

When I bought my 1970 240Z at Pomona Valley Datsun in Pomona, Ca., in 1970 it had some dealer installed 5 slots with a press in cap with the letters P/S on them. I later found out that they were marketed by a company in Arcadia, Ca. called Performance Specialties. So, like Arne said, I guess the individual dealer used whatever company they had a deal with.

By 'tag' do you mean a license plate?

There is no picture of the vented hood in the 78 owner's manual. Here's a couple of scans from the 78 FSM. Is this what you need?

Here's what it says about the towing hooks in the US 1978 280Z owners manual:

Nissan actually called the part 'SPLASH-BOARD ENGINE LOWER' and show two different ones. One for up to 9/74 and one for 10/74 up.

A bad dampmer wouldn't necessarily cause engine vibration. The pulley is bolted solidly to the crankshaft and the rubber dampening material is between the pulley and the surface where the fan belt runs. You might not notice the wobble at low speeds if the rubber was defective. But at higher speeds it could move around enough to put extra stress on the belt. The nut missing on the water pump pulley wouldn't cause the problem but I'd put one on there just in case any of the other three decide to loosen up. But like I said the problem you describe could only be caused by bad belt alignment, problems with any of the pulleys/bearings involved, or the belt itself.

I'm trying my best to be nice here and you feed me a line like that. You have no idea how hard it is to not answer that the way I'd like to :devious: but this thread already gone longer that it needed to.

Hey E, no E12-80 in a 78. They still have the E12-27 box in the passenger footwell. E12-80 is a ZX thing!

For the first thing you ask, well, I've seen a lot of people run those on the stock carbs. Some say you gain power, others say they don't notice any difference so I really couldn't say not having much experience with carbs. To answer the second question: That would be okay if you plan to run triple S.U.'s. But to go from twin S.U.'s to triple Webers/Mikunis etc., you have to buy three new air cleaners.

Only three things could cause this. Dragging pulleys, like you said, caused by bad bearings in the water pump or alternator. If this was the case I would think you'd have other problems more serious than wearing out belts. Pulleys out of alignment e.g. a bent pulley on either the water pump, alternator or a worn dampner on the crank pulley (my opinion of what your problem is since I have seen that before). The other thing would be the wrong belt. Any of the aforementioned things would cause the belt to wear in such a way as to lose the tension and untimately begin to squeal. I doubt that the adjustment would move even without a lock washer if it was tightened properly but take Arne's advice and mark it so you'll have a point of reference.

The bottom of the page reads 'Wiring Diagram - 240Z (Late model S30 series U.S.A. - manual and automatic transmission)'. The wiring diagram for the early cars also shows the same relay.

Well, yeah, I could but I already have one.

You might be better off the change the entire hatch if the 280 hatch fits a 240. There are threaded holes in the hatch where the strut mounts and the lower brackets where the other end of the strut mounts are welded to the body.