sblake01

Are you trying to set the idle speed (first attachment) or adjust the idle mixture (second attachment)? Be careful with the air bleed screws especially if you don't have some type of tailpipe sniffer to check your results. Usually the problem you're trying to correct is not based on that adjustment but the second attachment shows where the screws are. They're located under the rubber caps on either side of the AFM.

The switch on the right controls my amp and rear speakers. As far as the factory switches and their operation. Well I never really thought about them much. They work, as they are supposed to. What you were attempting to find out, only you know. You started this thread talking about the light in the hazzard switch then you switched to the defog switch. Then you wanted to know why it is the way it is or something like that. If you want to put a bulb in the hazzard switch, go for it. I'm happy with mine like it is. Now, what was the question?

I rarely use either of them. There's no light on the switch because of th light just in front of it that says 'REAR DEFOGGER". Doesn't yours light up? It is supposed to.

Here's a shot I took at last years Japanese Classic Car Show. Note that it is LHD. Toyota brought it out along with a couple of the other vintage Toyotas in the shot.

Check here: http://www.nissanparts.cc/

You kind of scared me when you said that you had bought it! I'm sure it will show up again with some type of revised description maybe as a parts car?

Oh, I don't know. I don't presently have a complete spare set. I'll look for some next time I go 'yard raiding. They don't charge much for them at all. You don't have self service junkyards in Ohio?

The rear defog switch has no lamp. The lamp is in front of it on the lower face of the console but I think, or at least I hope you've figured that out. Even if you modified it and put the same type of lamp in it that the hazard switch has it wouldn't do much good as the top of the defog switch is not translucent.

I have a working switch for a 78 (just tested it). It's your for postage if you want it. Easier than trying to fix yours. Just plug it in.

In the auction the last digit is listed as 7. It's still listed as an active auction for 5+ days. Did you make some kind of a deal with him? Anyway we discussed this car earlier and it's not a 69 or even a 70 as it was listed. The discussion is in this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=188529#post188529

Okay, I'll add that to my junkyard list. Would it be in any other Datsun besides the 75 280z? I know the later cars wouldn't have it due to the voltmerer but are there any other one that would work?

I bought it at Empire Nissan in Ontario. I had to order it but it came in about a week.

Don't know if this will help much but here goes: http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fpage11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp%2Fjp%2Fauction%2Fn44687334&langpair=ja%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools

Doh! As soon as I typed that I realized that I had confused S31 with S130.

On my 64 320, I converted it from the factory generator to a Ford 60 amp alternator. I fried two aftermarket ammeters before I replaced it with a voltmeter 4 years ago. No problems since. And like Dave says, a voltmeter is a better way to monitor your electrical system. No need to change out the other guages. The 76-79 guage will fit your 75 and look original especially if you use the 76 guage because I think the 77-78 has a different font. Oh, and bloxman, I went to the junkyard this morning but the Z was gone. I'll keep looking. That was just one of 7 'yards that are more or less local.

If you've done the alternator upgrade, you probably should go to the 76-78 voltmeter or, actually, combo volt/fuel meter instead of the 75 amp/fuel meter for the reason V8-240Z gave in post #10. But I'll still be on the lookout for a shunt when I go to the 'yard.

David, I guess you're a faster typist than I. I was just getting ready to attach that same thread!

They look like stock 73-74 flat tops. Many people will tell you to change them to round tops. I say, if they work, leave them on. It's not that hard to clean them up and get them operational. I've had success with them 'back in the day'.

Good call, Will. I've experienced the problem he describes in my 810 and it turned out to be a bad temp sensor and it acted the same as his car is acting except for the clicking relay which kind of left me scratching my head.

Wouldn't an S31-ZT look like a 280ZX?

So you paid roughly $27.50 per lb. since the average system takes roughly 2 lbs. give or take. That's actually not bad considering most shops over here add the labor to the cost and I've seen it go for as much as $90 for a charge or roughly $45 per lb. incl labor. I no longer use R12 in the older cars since the alternatives that are available cost much less and actually cool better. Let's see, it costs me about about 10 bucks to charge an R12 car and about $7.50 to do a R134a system. That's why I became certified. It's hard enough to find a tech that really wants to work on older cars.

So, Ian(s), are you still interested?

I have an old can of R12 from back in the day somewhere in this garage. As I recall it has a price tag that says $1.99! Now the stuff sell for over $400 for a 25 gallon tank, when you can find it.

His car is a 75 280Z which, I believe, still had the ammeter rather than the voltmeter like a 76-78. If I knew where to look on the car for the shunt, I could try to find one for him on my next junkyard trip since I think they have a 75 at the local Pick a Part.

Check your temperature sensor's resistance before and after warm up. This page shows the precedure.