sblake01

......... Aren't ZX rear brakes discs?

Not sure if this helps much but the factory parts list shows six different versions of the vaccum control.

I thought I recognized the car. John would be a good person to ask about upgrading the brake system. I have a 810 parts list which has all of the part numbers. I had hoped that, from that scan, you could identify the part you need. Amazingly, many of the mechanical parts are still available. There is also a member here, zcarnut, who has a nicely done 79 810 2dr that has done many mechanical mods and might be of help. My car is stock and I haven't really looked into the compatibility of other brake parts etc.

Which part of the cable burned? I don't have one but at least I can give you a part number if you can identify it from this diagram. Did that car once belong to Racer X (Ernie) or John Coffey?

I noticed but I figured that we could still try to help him and mabye Mike would move it to the right section.

That makes me think of the Suzuki Vitara X90 which we actually had here for a couple of years in the late 90s but I don't think the public really noticed.

A bad water temperature sensor or connection could cause this as well as a bad fuel pressure regulator. As well as other issues both mechanical and electrical. I'd be able to get a better direction on this if I knew your fuel pressure a) while the engine is running normally and when it dies out.

Okay, fair enough. I just thought, based on the above comment, that rather than attempting to make one, you might be inerested in getting the one that was designed for your car especially when she's giving it away for the cost of postage.

Tomo, did you see my post eariler in this thread? Contact alissa280z if you want a factory 78 splash pan though it may be spoken for by now.

I've never had any problems with my 280Z distributor in the 9+ years I've had the car.

Not :stupid: at all. This can be done by bolting the starter to the mount plate. I've done it. And the further we get into this, based on the info so far, I'd have to lean towards the input shaft also. I've also rebuilt a tranny or two in my time.

Tomohawk, you should hook up with alissa280z in Ct. She's parting out a 78 and maybe it has the splash pan. My 78 has one and others I've checked also do. Yours probably got lost/misplaced by a previous owner. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=186385#post186385

Sorry, Engima, my wording was unclear. The picture I posted is of the ignition box in my 78. And, Blox, I'm not sure how easy a conversion it would be to put the 'matchbox' dist. in a 75-78 due to the wiring involved. Besides, the comparison you quoted is between a 280ZX electronic distrubutor and a 240Z point type distributor. Your 75 distrubutor will work just fine with those Webers. This attachment is a diagram of the 78 and it should be similar to your car. If you don't already have one, check this out. The price is right! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-1976-Nissan-Datsun-280Z-Factory-Service-Manual_W0QQitemZ170021128721QQihZ007QQcategoryZ34229QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I didn't notice it on your list but do you still have the splash pan? Tomohawk is looking for one for his 78.

Are your AFM and your ECU matched (so to speak)? I only ask because a 79 and up ECU won't work properly with a 75-78 AFM and vice versa.

Actually, those are on the 75-78 280Z, US model. In 79, with the advent of the 280ZX, it was replaced by the 'matchbox' on the distributor. But it doesn't look like that picture. It's a black box, located just ahead of the fuse box and is clearly labled 'Transistor Ign'. Evidentally, after looking at my manuals, the box you pictured was only on the 1974 US 260Z.

Unless, of course, the cold start valve leaks.

Maybe we need to define some other terms here. You used a partial quote, out of context. My car has been in shows. Does that make it a show car? No. But since I'm going to the show anyway it's just easier to enter. I've also autocrossed it, but it's not a race car. It's just a former daily driver that is kept clean and running. IMO, show cars and race cars are purpose built and used for strictly that purpose.

That's why I posed the questions in my previous post. To get up to speed on exactly what's been done both testing wise and in parts replacement. I guess he chose not to respond. What's been said so far only leads to speculation which may or may not solve the problem. Before I could offer suggestions, I'd need to know the present status in a descripiton less vague than what's been posted so far. Because, so far, there is a laundry list of things that could be causing what's described in post #6 and #9. Post #1 really doesn't say anything. And my fuel injection works fine on both of my cars. My mileage is good and removing the system is not really the answer. You can either troubleshoot carbs or you can troubleshoot EFI. If you know how.

Yeah but you missed it again! That's E's comment about 'eye candy' not mine. But, personally, I don't really care what others opinions about what rice is or isn't. To me, all this crap does is fill space. Lately that's about all that has been going on here.

I think you missed the point on E's post on several fronts the last of which is that he says the girl is 'eye candy' and the car is 'as pleasing as it is, is simply a modified car'. I guess this thread is as meaningful as anything that's gone on here lately:ermm:

They're probably somewhat similar to these. We discussed them in another thread a while back. I have the rear kit on my car. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC07A

The fuel pressure shoud be constant. 36.3 psi according to the FSM, regardless of operating temp. You state and you also state Due to the difficulty of diagnosing EFI problems in print, and not wanting to get into a long exchange of emails, your situation begs these questions. Only after I see the answers to them would I be able to figure a direction to go in. That's the beauty of these forums. Others can add in which is something you won't get from emails. Did you replace the fuel pressure regulator? Do you know how to properly check the fuel pressure? What parts did you replace, and why? Are you certain that the components that you replaced are the correct components for your vehicle and that they are in proper working order and that their connections are good? Did you replace the fuel pump and if so, did you use an OEM or aftermarket one? Those questions will do for a start.

I was talking about fuel injected engines. (See 'throttle body boot' in the first post). I have a fuel sniffer that I use before I have my car smog checked and when I do tune ups. I can tell you that on both of my efi cars, when you remove the hose from the valve cover and plug it (the hose not the valve cover) the CO reading goes up. So sure, plug the throttle body and put a breahter on if you wish but even if you compensate by adjusting the idle you're still running with an over rich mixture. The will prematurely end the life of your catalytic converter (if you have one) carbon up your engine and decrease your fuel mileage. So just because you've been told somenthing by a 'couple of guys' or you 'see alot of them on engines' that doesn't mean it's a good thing.

I beg to disagree. I you create an opening in a closed system, which these cars have, then it's no longer closed which has to have some effect on performance. Having to adjust the idle to compensate doesn't correct the problem opening the system creates, it just allows the car to idle.