sblake01

I think he meant it had a stock 350 in it rather than meaning that a 350 was stock in a Chevy LUV (not love). LUV means Light Utility Vechicle. You see, age does mean something.

Let's talk about heavy, homemade grinder stands! Mine is of welded pipe and steel with concrete poured into a metal ring. You don't have to bolt it to the floor. It's a challenge just to move the thing! Right now, it has a Craftsman 6", 3/4 hp, 3450 rpm grinder mounted on it. Small but powerful enough. I also have shaft extensions and larger wheels for buffing that aren't on it right now. If anyone remembers those polished Iron Cross rims I sold to Proxlamus, I did them predominantly on this grinder. But polishing does require a lot of other tools. I sometimes use an air powered die grinder with various buffing wheels to get into the nooks and crannies as well as a cordless, lithium ion Dremel which is virtually as powerful as the corded one. I too purchase equipment from Eastwood as well as Northern Tool and others. I agree with you, Vic, about the addiction except that I would extend it beyond buffing and polishing equipment. My addiction is tools.

I don't know why it didn't work for you, webdawg1, but try this: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm

I have one of the more simple ones made. It reads codes and clears them. Bought it on eBay for about $25 and it's always worked when I needed it. That's not very often however since I only use it on my wife's cars or a friends car that has that setup. I looked into the PC software type but they were just too pricey for the amount of use I'd get from one.

"hit lightly on the passenger side rim"ROFL ROFL ROFL

Rear end out of alingment as in camber adjustment is common on these cars. But the rear end being shifted to one side? Never heard of that. Sounds like some kind of damage to me. It also seems to be missing both bumper valences. I'd have to agree that the price is a bit high for a parts car. Plus I'd never buy that 'needs the old gas ran out of it' line especially on an EFI car. That usually equals 'crud in the tank' which stays there after all the 'old gas' and cleaner has been run out.

Your signature should read: 1974 RLS30 not HLS30 since it's a 260Z. I see that it's already been converted to round tops, has a large aftermarket fuel filter, flex fan and adjustable front camber plates from what I can see. Is it an L26 or has it been changed?

Love those twins! But they're worse 'money pits' than an S30.

Early 260. You'll have to change the car in your sigunature now. Looks good like much of the body work's been done. 77-78 280Z hood, and a similar air dam to the one on my car. Don't know if the 303 paint code made it to 74.

Well said! Although I had to get a storage shed since my wife won't tolerate a type A 5 speed sitting on the floor below her shoe rack.

If you look at my avitar, though it's a different wheel, the part inside and around the spokes is 'gunmetal'.

I forgot to add this to my previous post.

I like your style, Will! But I do get a perverse sort of enjoyment from watching all of the posts on this site encouraging people to throw money at a problem rather than figure it out and fix it.

You didn't state the year of your car but this is for a 78. Despite what the attachment says, you don't have to remove the tach. It would make it easier if you did but I've done it without removing the tach. Another thing that would make it more difficult is having a dash cap.

Glad you got your problem solved but in looking back at the first post, a corroded injector connector wouldn't cause the engine to die. It would only cause it to miss. You must have cleaned other connections also.

I hope you've switched those two wires:classic:

My wife and I are on vacation and will be traveling to Northern California next week. We're going to try to include a visit to Carl's gravesite in Pleasenton.

I've not seen or heard of any special edition 260z in my experience. The seats appear to be reupolstered in that pattern and the Dastun emblem on the dash is not original either. As far as a 'special edition 280Z' rear spoiler no such thing really existed though there were dealer addons and aftermarket stuff available at the time such as the ones used on the 77 Zzap and the 78 BPE but they weren't unique to those cars. If the car is as clean overall as you say and the price is right, I'd say go for it. You can always correct those 'strange features' you speak of. The important thing is having a the cleanest starting point you can find.

Lots of people but those and they don't leak like a regular battery but IMO they're really not necessary. Just get a good quality battery.

The ones on the yellow G nose? That guy has been trying to sell those at that price for at least a year and a half!

$81.99 shipping to California. Seems kind of high. I had a wheel shipped from Australia for about $15.

The first connector I would check would be the on that plugs into the distributor. I had that one come loose once and it stopped the car in it's tracks. Also check the one at the temperature sensor.

Todd, I think that picture is what green machine needs. RIP260Z that's behind the LF strut tower you pictured not in front of the RF tower as Chris stated. Same place it is in my 78 US spec 280Z.

I like the one's I have and they are actually 'correct' for a 280z. Less common than a 6 spoke or 'Iron Cross' as you have pictured. The one in my avitar has an incorrect center cap but the one's on my car have the correct caps.

I think he answered that in his Z32 statement. I won't get into a discussion about which is the best. I like my 280Z (even the bumpers) for my own reasons. Everone else will have theirs. So it becomes opinion and its been done to death and we still don't have (and won't have) a consesus on which is best. No vote here for me.