sblake01

Most a/c shops have an assortment of duct tubing that can be cut to the proper length.

Check the fuel pressure.

I've always been partial to the manual trans. I perfer the ZX 5 speed with the higher 5th gear. That's what I have in my 78 280Z. If I ever have tranny problems with my daily driver 810 I'll also go with that trans since the 810 actually has the same trans as the standard 280Z. I even have the later model 'dog-leg' 5 speed in my 64 L320.

Well, the factory shims don't ever squeal, at least mine never have and they're only about two bucks each.

When I bought my 78, it had that same problem. It turned out to be a clogged up gas tank. Has you car been sitting a long time without being run?

We discussed this before. I, too, used to believe this but it's not really true. Without quoting actual figures since that's already been done ad nauseum in other threads here, a 280ZX is only marginally heavier than a 280Z.

I ususally just put kits in them if they are not scored on the inside of the cylinder.

Freeze-12 is also a workable alternative. It mimics the characteristics of R12 as far and high and low side pressures, runs colder than R12, and takes less volume to fill the system than R12. I've used it but I have made Red Tek 12 my refrigerant of choice due to the success I've had with it and the price i can get it for. As far as the cylinder of R12 on Craig's List, I wouldn't buy a partial cylinder of any refrigerant. Just my personal preference.

Karen, I don't think you'll get much sastisfaction from this site if your main area of interest is the Z31. As far as not being able to post your ad, I don't know the answer to that one.

72240Z is right. Find the leaks or you'll just be wasting that expensive R12 or whatever refrigerant you put in. I have found when working with the older systems, the hoses are usally the problem. The old Sankyo/Sanden 508 is pretty bullet proof and are still being manufactured and used to this day. 'Real R12' is no longer that desirable or necessary. There are some good alternatives available including R414B, Red Tek 12, Enviro-Safe 12 etc. All of them run a lower head pressures than R12 which is easier on the AC system. I personally have used R414B and Red Tek 12. Both work well and actually run a few degrees cooler than R12. Whatever you do, don't convert an old R12 system the R134a.

zbane, S30's don't have passing lights. You have an S130, they're different. On a 280Z (no X) you pull the stalk, with the lights on, to engage or disengage the high beams, it springs back. There are two versions of this stalk for a 280Z. 12/74-7/76 (25540-N3605) and 8/76up (25540-N4701). I would suggest not buying this type of thing from JC Whitney, Autozone etc. Either OEM, Black Dragon, Motorsport, etc. You might first try searching for the thread on cleaning and repairing the combination switch.

When I had my 78 apart, I replaced those coolant hoses you speak of with 250 psi fuel injection hose, even the one with the severe bend. In the two years or so since I did it, I've had no problems. The housing under the AAR is the heater housing for the thermal vacuum valve. The termal vacuum valve allows the egr system to work while the engine is at operating temp. It is closed below 117 deg. and above 208 deg. and it opens between 122 and 203 degrees.

I'm not sure that's my first. It's 4 months after my join date.

The horn relay is in the passenger side footwell above the fuse box on all 280Zs. It's the same relay used in the ZX other than the location. Part number 26320-N4500 which supercedes to 26320-P6500.

Yo, Age, let's see a link to Motorsport's book on rebuilding flat tops.

From what I understand the non US flat tops are not as bad as the US versions. The US flat tops were basically a bad attempt at better emissions control.

Do you have an FSM? The procedure to release the fuel pressure is in it as well as the procedure to change the injectors. Nothing special, just perseverance and perspiration!

I really only mentioned the kit for the rear. Shops seem to have trouble getting the rear camber set to spec without it especially if you have larger than stock rear tires.

Hey, I like the look of the EFI system. But what I like even more is that it doesn't get out of adjustment once everything's right. I haven't had to deal with any EFI problems on either car in almost two years.

They gave me $10K on my 78!

Look in this link. My front didn't need it but I installed it on the rear. Without it, the shop was only able to get it close. With it they were able to get it within spec. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PSDC07A

Don't take this the wrong way, Bill, but how can you mispell 'therapy' with the correct spelling just a word or so away in your post?

Is is not possible to pull the the speedo without pulling the dash on a ZX? I can on my Z. I'm not too knowlegable on the intricacies of the ZX.

Firstly, welcome to the site. I'm more versed at fixing EFI that swapping it to carbs but at least one of the other members has done it and maybe this post will help. http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=149555&postcount=6

Bouncing is usually bad balance while wobbling, uneven wear etc. is usually alignment. At any rate, take the car in and have the tires properly balanced, and get a 4 wheel alignment using the kit for the rear if necessary. It will be worth the money in the long run.