sblake01

Oh, it's a great thing to have. The one I have only measures CO but that's the key to everything else. If your CO is within spec, then everything else seems to follow. I have used it to set the CO prior to an emissions check and I haven't had a car fail since I started using it.

The 'CO set screw' just the mixture adjustment. I usually check that adjustment just before a smog check and set it to spec with my exhaust analyzer. If that adjustment is off, the car will run rich or lean but it wouldn't do what Jon describes. I would first check the temp sensor, both the connection and the sensor itself. The rain thing has me stumped, however. I've never experienced that with either of my efi cars.

The second ring is kind of trapezoid shaped when you view it from the side. The larger part goes toward te bottom.

The bottom one is the oil ring and it does appear to be collapsed. The top ring is the one that sits flat against the cylinder wall and the second ring is the tapered one that mounts with the tapered surface downward. I forget the actual names but I learned from once installing them wrong in a L16.

Oh, I haven't received mine yet. Did you notice in the old article that the pictures are mixed up?

Here's a scan of the write-up:

The service manual is not going to lie? Well, I don't think it's lying but there are many inconsistencies when you deal with these cars. Take a look at these two scans, both from FSM's. One makes no mention of transmission type and the other does.

134a is kind of hard on the old R12 systems. You should try Redtek or ES-12. You don't need a liscense for either of those and they perform better than 134a in a R12 system.

What refrigerant are you running in it?

You're saying that the only lesson you learned from that experience is that we should all carry a fire extinguisher?

It took me a while to get it together but here it is:

Edited due to rethought of the possible perception of my initial comment.

What makes this all seem rather strange is that the original post is about an automatic car that was converted to a manual. And it has the dashpot and hence my original statement. The FSM says manual trans only for the dashpot, but my 'junkyard research' says that that is not true.

It looks like a little more than an EFI to carb conversion that went bad. It has the wrong radiator for a 77, no carbon cannister, etc. Strange.

The silicone would simply dampen the rattle. The real problem is more than likely the bushings. Mine used to rattle like crazy when I had done the 'Atlantic Z Dodge brass door bushing' trick. Once I returned to the stock nylon type the problem was gone. I keep a couple of sets on hand since I have three vehicles that use them.

Grim, I stand corrected. I just did some reading. FSM, page ET-3. Manual transmission only. But, one more correction: Tomohawk, the BCDD can be adjusted. See page EC-7 & EC-8 in the FSM.

Well, that's kind of a grey area. Some 79s, maybe the early ones, had them. My 79 810 has one but I've seen other later prod date 79s, both ZXs and 810s that didn't. Instead, they had a type of spring arrangement that did basically the same thing. But I do agree, leave the dashpot.

There were so many dealer installed and aftermarket knobs available back then. My 70 had the simple knob with the four speed pattern which must have been the original one but the 72 had a walnut knob that said DATSUN. Both cars were purchased new. The only knobs shown in the microfiche are for 5 speeds.

The hose to the inlet side of the receiver/drier comes from the condenser. The hose from the outlet side goes to the expansion valve. If you are hooked up like the diagram you posted, you're okay. Was there any refrigerant in the system before you put the two cans in? What kind of refrigerant are you using? Will touched on the problems that mixing refrigerants can cause but it sounds to me like you simply overcharged it. If you got cold air for a minute, as you said, I don't think you hurt anything but the hose. Pressure will generally seek the area of least resistance, in this case 30+ year old hoses. Once you replace the hoses, do you have any way to pull a vacuum on the system before you charge it again?

I shouldn't have said badly adjusted when what I really meant was malfunctioning. The altitude corrector is located on the drivers side near the hood release. It compensates for alititude by leaning the fuel mixture by 6% above 3675 ft. When they don't work properly, they can cause the idle to hang up for a while before it settles to normal. You could replace it but most commonly, people just disconnect it which solves the idle problem but you lose the altitude compensation. Part number 22612-N4800.

It's on all 280Zs and 810 regardless of transmission. I don't know where Grim got the notion that it only existed on AT cars. No vaccum connection. They removed them when they came out with the ZX and the Maxima. All it does is is what 280~Master said. And from your description, yours is working properly. Is your car by chance a California car. I only ask because the 500rpm thing you speak of is symptomatic of a badly adjusted altitude corrector but those are only on the California cars.

You can remove the door locks and hatch lock, take them to a locksmith and have him set each cylinder to your ignition key. They usually charge about $15 per lock.

Are you charging from a manifold or one of those cans with an inline guage? I'm just trying to establish how you arrived at that pressure reading. Anything over about 60 on the low side is going to blow something. Luckily it was a hose and not a compressor seal or the evap. itself.

The ZX and the Viper are bargains compared to the 'Minnesota Fats' car.

Never buy from a 0 feedback seller. Especially when pruchasing a car. This guy's been around for over two years and has never sold anything, at least under his present ID.