sblake01

To further add to that, he has a 64 Corvair Monza Spyder convertible listed at $25999. That would be a low price for such a limited production car if the condition of it is right. So, as you say, he doesn't really understand the market.

Guys, take a look at this thread. It's a long discussion on the subject: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20530

After researching and then finding oem blanks for my 78 280Z and my 79 810 (both double sided but mirror images of each other), it would appear that the only single sided oem blanks still available through Nissan would be KEY00-00018 and KEY00-00019. (see Mike B.'s post #60) Are those the ones you're looking for, Rick?

I have always run unleaded regurlar 87 octane in my 1978 280Z and in my 1979 810. They don't ping, they always pass the emissions test on the first attempt and I've had no octane related problems. The HP rating for my 78 is 170HP/5600RPM (sae). The tag should be located on your left shock tower unless someone removed it.

I was thinking that you meant 28k ea.

Cool link, Chris.

For $28K, they must have had a lot of dealer prep, etc. because according to NADA, the MSRP for a 1980 AE was $14,300.

What would $28K in 1980 money equate to today?

It's in the 'Body' bookmark, L24 tab: section 123-2.

$16.85 at Courtesy and the same part sells for $14.86 at http://www.nissanparts.cc

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=32869-E8700

Here's a couple of pics I found. These are earlier and different from the F10 that we did get over here. We did get F10's, Bill. They just didn't go over too well. Like my 810.

http://www.nissanparts.cc/

Just curious, the date you listed for the thrid test is a typo, right? Shoud be 06-09-06 rather than 06-09-04? So it had been two years between passing and failing. I thought that, based on the posted dates, that it had only been two months and hence, my answer. Anyway, I would try a good tune up including a new PCV valve and even an oil change before taking on the the AFM adjustment. Contaminated oil can raise the CO level since its vented into the intake through the PCV valve.

You can get the Mazda KL(ZE) performance engine. How similar is a Protege to an MX6 or 626? The engine is a V6. (zoom, zoom, zoom!)

I used to buy from Courtesy but Nismo parts/Nissan parts cc has better pricing than Courtesy and their shipping is just as fast.

The number on the relay (25230-89914) is shown as 'ASSY-RELAY AIRCON TYPE 14' in the parts CD. Try here, if it's still available, they should be able to get it for you. http://www.nissanparts.cc/ And for Datsun Mike: The wires that 78 280zcar speaks of should be located near the right side of the trans, behind the starter, in the tunnel because that's where they would have connected to the inhibitor switch on the auto trans. Crimp those together and I believe that your problem will be solved.

Try here. Shea is a good guy and they sell their parts for less than the dealer. You can call him and ask about the part or just put the part number in and order it. I've never had any problems with them sending the wrong part. And 16578-N4710 is the correct number as I did order one from them about a year or so ago for my 78. The part number for the fusible link cover is B4021-N4200. http://www.nismoparts.com/

Taking it for a long drive does not cure the problem. You're running too rich. Besides not passing smog, you're killing your catalytic converter. You need to adjust your air flow meter or have it done by someone who knows how. He'll put it on an exhaust analyzer and adjust until the CO is within spec. Take it from someone who has two cars with this system and has never failed a smog check with either of them. Not only will you pass smog but your car will run better and you won't have to replace the cat as often. The one in my 78 has been in it since I bought the car in 1997. It's CO reading was 0.12 and 0.01 on last year's test.

From the results, I'd say that you're running too rich based on the CO readings, except for that one test which shows the CO incredibly low. Too rich will eventually kill the cat. If all sensors are good (throttle switch, temp sensor, cold start valve, etc.) then you might look at adjustment of the air flow meter. It's a rather tedious task to get that adjustment just right. Take a look at this article. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html

Those are what I have on my Z. Can't seem to find them over here anymore.

Well, I have 225/60s on my Z. They just look right to me. And for the overall performance of the car, unless you're going to change gearing or add a 5 speed, IMO (and others) a 195/60 is too short.

You're welcome. Glad you like it. But the real thanks goes to Eric for providing the DVD in the first place. Thanks again, Eric.

Well, if a 205/60 is too short..............

Doubtful. The present post count: Boobs-1175, This thread-178