sblake01

I think he meant this one. Not much activity but I visit occasionally: http://www.classicfairlady.com/

I'm not really sure that the switch is set up like MikeW described as I never opened it up, I just replaced it. I doubt if you will find a new one. The part number is 27141-U2000 but I couldn't find it three years ago. As I recall, it would have only been about $20 if they could get it.

There's a small plastic gear that turns the switch when you move the lever. Either it or the pinion on the switch itself could be worn to the point where it doesn't turn the switch. The switch is kind of a rheostat and I don't know if you can do much inside of it. You might be able to open it up and clean it. I replaced mine with a working used one when I had problems with it.

Another vote for blue.

Are you serious?

Which is okay, we've all been there!

Actually we've got three: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=173592#post173592

That's what I use. Adhears well, conforms to any shape, doesn't stick to your hands, cleans up easily, as well.

The red are 50a fusible links and the black is 80a.

Not my style either.

The factory installed injector cooler fans found on the 280ZX were just for what the name implies: cooling the injectors. Though I've never had a problem with vapor lock which I think that's what there there to prevent. This thing on eBay, however, is crap!

I believe I've seen that before. Quite a while back IIRC but aren't most of those shows re-runs?

IIRC, the Pertronix Igniter for a 70-73 Z is CDM61 for the single point dist. And the coil is 511.

I call my 280 'Sam' though the only connection between it and 'Big Sam' is that they're both S30's. The 810 is simply 'Brown' because of it's similarity to the color of a UPS truck. The L320 is 'Datrod' because all of the modifications that really only make it fast enough to keep up with traffic which is something a stock L320 is not very adept at. And the J30 is the 'Granny car.'

When I bought my 810 I had to clean that ring on the back of the steering wheel to get the horn to work. Of course, I looked everywhere else first like you did!

I have that muffler on my 78. To me it only seems louder than stock when you get on it. My car does have a catalytic converter so I don't know how much effect that has on the sound. Maybe about 1.8 to 2X.

You need bushings. Two of #30 and one of #31 as shown in the attachment. #30 is Nissan part number 32855-H1010 and #31 is 32861-N4200.

That makes sense. The b/w wire from the ign switch also ties in with the ign relay, the condensor on the distributor, the coil, and the transistor ign unit. Lack of proper contact there would definately cause problems.

I looked and looked at that diagram and I just don't see the radio. Is it just me?

And it looks damn good. The welding is virtually seamless! And the air cleaner decal showing all three carbs is a nice touch. Definately a conversation piece. Looks like and oem setup.

There's a spot in the area of the camshaft where Shane mentioned that you can tighten the wrench against. I put a block of wood between the head and the other end of the wrench.

My bad! He is talking about the crank pulley. I just read it wrong.