sblake01

Could also be a bad relay or temp sensor. I've experienced both on my 78Z and the bad sensor on my 810. Don't remember which relay but it was one of the ones by the shock tower. I fixed that about eight years ago and the problem has not reoccured.

Well, I finally did find some aluminum tubing. It's 2 1/2" .016 with a 4" radius. I cut the excess straight piece from one end and had it swedged to fit the filter opening and over the other end of the pipe. I also had the other end swedged to fit the afm boot. Got it from a place called Global Technologies on the internet. Total cost was $45. $43 and change for the elbow inlc. shipping and 2 bucks for the swedging at a muffler shop. What I like about it is that it puts the filter in the center of the car unlike other kits I've seen.

Show off!

When that happens to me I just look left or right because I'm most likely beside myself.

Steering? As in power steering? On a 78? Or do you mean one for the A/C and water pump? I only ask because I have aftermarket air on my 78 so it's probably set up differently on the factory air cars, assuming that your's is one.

An oem 78 280z speedo starts at 10 mph.

You've lost me, as well, with this one, Rick!

I was wondering the same thing.

That wasn't the original question. Look at the title of the thread. I do, however, understand your meaning for "American" 240Z vs. "American 240Z".

The York or Yorx (I've heard them called both) compressor gets a bad rap IMO. I've set up a couple of those for people and they work fine. The problem is, most of them are 30 to 35 + years old. They're really not hard to rebuild if you know a/c and if you don't use R12 or especially R134a in them they will last for a while. They work well with Redtek 12a refrigerant since it runs at a high side pressure of only 90 to 100 psi. compared to about 135-150 for R12 and up to 200 for R134a. The problem with Redtek is that they only have two distributors in the US. I happen to live near the West Coast distributor. But, I digress. If Randy takes his compressor to ARA in Ontario, Ca., they'll do a good job on it. They did the installs for most of the Inland Valley Datsun dealers back in the day and some of the same guys are still there.

Okay, well I've never seen the 'York' mounted that way. I'll add that picture to my Z car a/c research file if that's okay.

Which compressor do you have? Is it the upright, piston type York or a rotary type like a Sanden/Sankyo? I only ask because I've never seen the York mounted on the left side.

Looks like someone modified that one.

I used to take my a/c problems to ARA on Holt in Ontario, west of Mountain Ave.

Sounds like you need to adjust the free play at the rod that connects to the pedal.

Very true. I forgot to mention that. The car must be securely stored in a proper structure.

The main thing is with Hagerty (one G) that you must have a daily driver insured with a regular insurance carrier. They don't limit the mileage though they once did. And as stated, you can drive to work or stop at the store as long as the classic is not your main mode of transportation for those type of things. I've been insured by them for six years, both my Z and my truck. Call and ask specific questions about your usage and that will help you determine whether or not it's for you. It doesn't really matter whom you speak to. They are all knowlegable and seem to understand an owners needs since they deal with all kinds of cars many of which are far more valuable than a Z.

IIRC, the part that drives the ac compressor was actually mounted on a stock pulley when they did the dealer air on the early cars. Mine is a 78 with dealer air but no smog pump so it has a two row pulley. What year is your car?

All you had to do was look at my avitar. Chris, I've always heard of the S130 wheels referred to as "Iron Cross". I've never heard of the wheels on my car referred to as that although some people wrongly refer to them as "Black Pearl" wheels. Alan, I don't know why the US number would be different. I believe that the became an option here in 1974 when the US 260Z was introduced. As far as I can tell, they are the same wheels. Similar situation with the wheels on my 810. In the US they're 40300-U8925 and in Australia they are 40300-R4671.....same wheel.

From what I read, plus what I've experienced on US EFI cars, I would check the connection to the temperature sensor as well as the temperature sensor itself. You stated that you 'fiddled' with the wires on the thermostat housing. One of those is the temperature sensor. The only other thing that could case richness when the engine is warm is a problem in the cold start circuit. Either a leaking cold start valve or a thermotime switch that doesn't shut down after cranking the starter. But when I had similar problem, it turned out to be a bad temperature sensor connector. I'm just not sure if the NZ cars are set up the same as the US cars but the should be some similarity.

The Libra or at least 'Libra type' wheels were the hot setup on Z's as well as other Datsuns back in the day. I had them on my white 510. They were popular then probably because that's the type of wheel that was on the BRE cars.

That's a common problem for those distributors. Remember, they're almost 30 years old. I replaced mine when I bought my car for the same reason. Where is your timing set at? Play with that and you might be able to get rid of that 'flatness'.

Now that's why I was curious about the "Road wheel-aluminum" that Carl mentioned. The 40300-N3225/26 looks like the same wheel (40300-N3200) used in the US on the 260/280Z. Those are the ones on my car. I'd love to get my hands on a set of those locks.

I can't really laugh at you for that one. Remember earlier in this thread I also mentioned that I've also done the missing rotor trick!

Ed, this is a late model dual pulley. I think from what he said that the larger part that drives the alternator and water pump seperated from the pulley itself.