sblake01

From your description it sound like your pulley is gone. I have no experience with welding those and I'm not sure if that would work. My suggestion is that you replace the pulley. There was a recent thread on crank pulley replacement. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21174&highlight=pulley

These pictures show the use of a chain wedge. The second one shows what the wedge does. You don't have to remove the front cover. (Unless you don't use the wedge)

A 77 fuel pump is designed for a system that runs on roughly 37 psi. IMO that pump would be overkill if it were choked down to the 3 to 5 psi that carbs need. If that would even work.

The wing nut holds the cover for the jet housing.

I had my 70 for 1 1/2 years, followed by my 72 which I had for 3 years. Both were new. I have had the 78 since mid 1997.

Carl, do you have a picture of those? I'd be curious to see what they looked like.

Glad it worked out for you. I basically went through the same thing when I first got my 78. Getting it running is only the beginning. Now the real fun starts!

What good would your Toyota be to him if he has a Datsun? Anyway, Mike, try this web page: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/

They look like the Kumho 732 like I have on my 320. They are the smoothest tire I've ever run on it. And, believe me, you would notice anything that makes the ride feel smoother on that vehicle! I have 22560 Yoko A509 on my Z. They barely clear the strut in the front. Any larger and they wouldn't. Very smooth and very sticky. The only problem is that you can't get them anymore.

My next project is to build a loft with a drop down ladder in my garage. That will open up a lot of space in the garage itself. I could have chosen all but a couple of the catagories because I have parts everywhere! But they are organized in such a way where I can find them for the most part.

Like I said, the tube is too short. In my opinion the filter should be more toward the center of the car. JMO.

You can pull the hose connection from the rubber duct ahead of the throttle body and spray starting fluid in that hole. But put the hose back before you start it because that's would be a huge vaccum leak.

Okay, I went up to $20 but got outbid. I wouldn't want it anyway.

I'll bet the reserve is higher than that ($200). It's up to $4.53! Bambikiller is one of the bidders but he's been outbid so far.

Good to see you here again Craig. I ran into the same problem when I tried to put a Pertronix in the old 320. Bench tested fine, just wouldn't work in the truck. Never figured it out. Oh well, another project to tackle this summer.

All 77-78 consoles have the hole in the back. In the 2 seaters there is a plastic blanking plate that goes there and the 2+2 gets the ashtray. There's really not much room if you put the ashtray in a 2 seater.

Mike bought a cam already. About 10 months ago.

Well Bill, if they don't have engines I doubt that they would have crankshafts. But seriously, the LD28 crankshaft from those cars is the basis for building a 3.1 litre stroker L engine.

We'll be at Solvang on Saturday but I might come to MSA on Sunday if we're not too burned out from the drive.

Oh, I don't know. Do you think you could properly drop a V8 in for less that 1500-2000 bucks? And I hope you were jumping for a battery alone rather than one connected to a car when you did it that way. But I digresss. I would at least try to get the L engine running so you can get a better idea of what you have as you originally stated. That would probably turn out to be the least costly route.

Mine cost me $40 at the Pick-and-Pull but that's is with me doing all of the labor to remove it. As soon as they drop a Maxima diesel someone is there to rip it apart. Any time you see one in the junkyard it's either has the motor flipped upside down with the crank gone or sitting in front of the car with the crank gone.

I'm not sure of it's availability now, but I bought one from the dealer about 5 years ago. The Nisssan part number is 65640-N4800.

I've never seen one that I liked. The tube on any kit I've seen for them never seems to be long enough to mount the filter in the center of the car. Seems that a lot more thought is put into the design for the FWD cars and the later cars than for the 280z/280zx. We discussed that in a thread a while back. If I could find a 70mm aluminum elbow, I'd make my own. Still looking.

The 'dogleg' 5 speed, that is used as a common swap in the early PL510 (68-73), comes from the earlier 200sx (S10 77-79) or the 510 (A10 78-79) . They both have L engines. What I said above about the cars (S110 80-83) and 510 (A10 80-81) with NAPS engines applies to the five speed too. The trannys from the NAPS engine cars are slanted and won't work in a Z.