sblake01

Unfortunately, I know of no source for the fuel pump strainer. Nissan doesn't show a seperate part number so I assume that they only sell it with the pump. When I needed one I just went to the junkyard and got the best one I could find and cleaned it up. I'm not familiar with Napa's pump and it may have a check valve but you could temporarily use that glass filter just to see what comes out of the tank. The 'running vs pumping' you speak of sounds like the pump attemting to prime itself.

The 2+2 has the ashtray in the back of the console and the 2 seater has a plastic plate in the opening.

Also try http://www.nismoparts.com. Their prices are about the lowest on OEM parts but you must know the part number or call customer service there to have them help you find it.

I don't know about the one from Napa but the pump I mentioned (from Parts America) has no check valve and thus would bleed down the pressure as soon as it stopped pumping. IMO, OEM is the only way to go there. If the pump 'runs and runs but it sounds like there is no fuel' as you say, then I stand corrected on what I said earlier. The fuel pump is self priming so maybe there is a clog somewhere prior to the pump. But, then again, like I said, I don't trust aftermarket pumps. Let me know what you find out when you check the line between the tank and the pump.

I don't think there's a clog anywhere. Been there done that. It would act differently. If that 'aftermarket' fuel pump is a Master E8312 from Parts America and their affiliates, you may have added to your problems. The throttle position sensor, thermotime switch, cold start valve etc. won't make the fuel pressure drop. There is no pressure regulator at the pump. Jeff B., maybe you mean the fuel damper? And as for the other point, even if there was a clog, you'd still hear the pump trying to ... well, pump. Now, Jeff A., by air flow sensor, I'm sure you mean Air Flow meter. There are contacts there that are part of the system that runs the fuel pump and there's a good chance that your problem lies there. You've changed a few parts and still basically have the same problem. You say it runs fine when you open the flap on the AFM. You need to check those contacts and make sure they are clean and functioning properly. But don't just throw parts at the problem. Read your FSM especially in the area of fuel system trobleshooting. Sure, all those ways that Jeff B. suggested will make the fuel pump work, but what good does that do when it doesn't work when connected properly?

Check with Kmack, I think he still has carbs.

Doesn't look burned to me, just old.

That's it. Sometimes the just contacts need cleaning but to be on the safe side, I'd replace it.

Only the California cars (like mine) had a catalytic converter. No hose goes on that little plastic screw-on cap. It's just a vent.

I don't know if this applies to Australian cars but in the US, the ZXT had the Borg Warner T5. Side by side they are noticeably different from any of the Nissan transmissions.

Never had that desire, not in town!

That is if it's a late (74.5) 260.

Or, myself!!

One of my favorite cars that I ever owned was my 1970 1600 (w/2 litre crank, rods, pistons, etc.)

I would say that you don't need the factoy pump and it was just used to suppliment the mechanical pump. An aftermarket pump will replace both as it is designed to be the solitary pump. But I'm an EFI guy, maybe the carb guys will step in and correct me if I'm wrong.

I was going to answer this question but I didn't have a tranny to look at so i would have been going on memory. It would make sense that it would face the rear since the air flow would prevent it from venting properly if the opening was facing toward the front.

I don't know how true that claim is about the 213 being the first roadster. My friend has a 60 SPL 212. He brings it to most of the So Cal Datsun/Nissan and import shows. It's left hand drive, it''s definately drivable and older than the one you linked. You can see Jim McAdory's 510 in the background and I believe that's our own Victor Laury sitting behind Edgar's car.

Or even Donald F a g e n's 'Trans Island Skyway' (the things you have to do here to avoid censorship!)

Works for me.

Don't forget to put a pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft befoe installing the manual trans.

http://zeddsaver.com sells the paint code decals with the number already stamped on it.

Well, I didn't mean it the way it apparently came off. After all, I've met Vicky and Scott (ZRush) and they live 3000+ miles away.

I would just be guessing but it would have to be a bad connection some where in that circuit or the alternator/regulator itself.

They use a Hitachi MJ167 compressor. Checker/Schucks/Kragen has them. I forget their number. The difference in the ZX compressors is the size of the flare on the low side port but that doesn't matter since the one's that Kragen sells don't come with the ports. You use the ones from your old compressor. If you get one from them, be sure to use new o rings.

Rick, California is a rather large state, especially north to south. Deedee will be about 500 miles south of where Carl lives and about 100 miles south of me.