sblake01

Yeahookay!

Put the airbox back together! You must have had too much time on your hands when you came up with that one. What do you expect to gain with that setup? If you want a cold air intake, I would suggest buying one. That one makes a nice scoop for water when you're washing the car. Like zguitar said, don't drive in the rain. Out.

It is easier to pull than an S30/S130 tank since it's in the trunk rather than under the car. I just don't think that the problems your'e having require pulling the tank. My Z had sat for almost 5 years when I purchased it and due to the sediment that built up in the tank the car wouldn't run much past an idle.

You say the tach is fluctuates. If the tach moves erraticly, seemingly not in sync with the engine's actual speed, try cleaning the connector and terminals at the IC ignition unit on the side of your distributor.

This next one shows how the wedge works but you wouldn't actually see this since the purpose of the wedge is to prevent having to remove the cover

We talked about this in another thread a couple of years ago. These pictures show how to wedge the chain to prevent having to remove the front cover. I doubt if you can still get the wedge from Nissan but I made the one I use from a piece of wood years ago.

There is no 'computer chip'. Not in those days. All that tells me is that your Nissan tech didn't have a clue. That's par for the course, however, since many present day Nissan 'techs' were either small chidren or not even born in the era of the EFI L series engine. Relays aren't really complex. They either work or they don't. They can't be repaired. That is unless one posseses 'mad electrical skills'. There are test procedures for them in the FSM. As far as obtaining them, well, the junkyard is the only source I would know of. I doubt that Nissan still has them and I don't know if the ones for a 280Z or 280ZX are the same though they are available through places like MSA or Victoria British. I dread the day that I have to source relays for my 810. I haven't yet had a relay related problem in the 810 so I don't know much about the interchangability of relays from other Nissan models. When I first got the car, I opened up the relay box and ran checks on all of them and cleaned the terminals and plugs just as preventative maintainence. There is a relay box under the hood of the 810 right next to the battery. It houses the Fuel pump control relay, the inhibitor relay (A/T), the bulb check relay, the horn relay , the fusible link, the #2 engine harness, the engine room harness, the headlamp sensor, the wiper amplifier, the lighting relay, the main harness and the fuel pump relay. The ignition relay is above the fuse box on the kick panel on the passenger side.

How did you 'keep the chain tight'? Unless you wedged it you sprung the tensioner and will have to remove the front cover etc. to correct this. Just keeping the chain pulled up tight doesn't cut it. Ed's reasoning just might be pretty sound in this case. Not trying to cast any dispersions on you, Hrududu, but these things should be known before you remove the head. But it is one of those mistakes you only make once. I wish someone would have warned me before I first pulled the head off an L engine!

The hole is threaded but I don't know what size the threads are. I wouldn't suggest JB weld. You need to determine what size the threads are and get a plug from a hardware store.

They do have a large metal can filter but it's mounted on the passenger side fenderwell, towards the front, so it won't be quite as difficult to test as you described. Did we miss the fuel filter earlier in this thread? I guess mileage on the mind is important too!

That's all good except I would use a Nissan or HKS head gasket istead of a Failprone (Felpro). Had a couple of bad experiences with Felpro head gaskets when I had my 510 and my 521 and personally I'd never use one again on a Datun/Nissan. JMO

Yes, very difficult to find. As I recall, I had the car running and shook each one of the relays. When I shook the bad one, the car sputtered and died. I replaced it and have had no problems since. I had tried many other things before I tried the relays. Of course, like I said, that was on my Z not my 810.

Virto, that's a 280Z and you're showing the left front strut tower. I believe that it would be on the right front strut tower on a 240Z as Chris stated.

Only the 77 810 had an external regulator. All the rest had internal. I am watching this thread rather than commenting because I've never experienced this with my 810. I did have a similar problem with my Z back when I frist bought it and it turned out to be one of the relays in the box under the hood. Can't remember which one however. I do recall that when it (the relay) acted up, the fuel pump would stop.

I don't know if I fully buy the comment from the article. The 810 came out in late 76 (77 model year). It's really more 280Z than 280ZX. The Maxima chassis (910) is more like the ZX. Rear disc brakes, etc.

Did he check to see if the air regulator was functioning properly?

I came across this today. Don't know if it will fit a 280. Ask him. He's a good guy to deal with. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-Choke-Cable-Handle-Assembly-NR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33552QQitemZ8015370787QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Alan, when I say 'left' I mean as viewed from the drivers seat.

Borg Warner makes a good quality kit. When you say 6 pieces, is that disc, plate, t.o. bearing, pilot bushing, alignment tool, and ?. In other words, what is the sixth piece? The bearing collar?

Yeah, Rick, I've read and seen many attempts to correct this. As well as people using the rationale that even if Nissan didn't use Goertz's design, his work influenced their final design. I have written to authors of material that give him credit, and the author usually uses some form of my last sentence to rationalize their failure to do the proper research. So it stays printed that way with no follow up and continues to perpetuate the myth. I don't know. I never thought that the Z resembled any of his work.

I'm lucky, mine was always an Inland Valley car. March A.F.B., Rancho Cucamonga, Upland, Fontana, and now San Bernardino, Ca.

Mine is on the left and the stamping is larger. But it's a US 280Z so maybe I don't belong in this thread.

Here are the results from my 78 tested 7/6/05. We still have to test out here. HC: 51ppm (limit 181) CO: .01% (limit 1.16) NO: 682ppm (limit 1224) CO2: 12.64% It looks like California's standards are more stringent than Ohio.

Move the wires and hoses and look here:

You don't have to justify your desires to anyone whether they have to do with cars or anything else. It sounds to me like you've made up you mind what you really want to do by the couple of excerps I've taken from your post. Though they are out of context, they still say to me that you don't want to sell the car. So why let someone else tell you that you do?