sblake01

The 74-78 factory systems use an idler pulley, the after market ones don't. My 78 has an ARA system with a bracket that allows adjustment of the belt.

The 74-78 systems, both aftermarket and factory, use the second pulley. They also mount low on the left side of the block. I don't know much about the MSA unit but some members here have is so maybe they'll chime in. As far as the York compressors rebuildabilbty (is that a word?), I'm still looking into it.

Now that really clears it up! But, seriously, Ian, I was just playing with you. I knew more or less what you meant. You know how us bored people from the 50s are. Now, that guy smokingwheels, well that's a whole different story. :classic:

I have an old MSA air dam and a BRE rear spoiler on my 78. I don't really notice anything at normal speeds but at freeway speeds and up they seem to keep the front end down. The front end of Zs without a front spoiler/air dam tends to lift at higher speeds.

Well, there are different kinds of glass packs, from moderate to loud. There are mufflers like the Flowmaster Hushpower II that are nice sounding without being excrutiatingly loud like a Thrush glass pack or something along those lines. Check out a place like Summit Racing or Jeg's. The both have a pretty good assortment of mufflers and they both give fairly accurate descriptions of the sound they will produce.

Your system (Tomohawk) is a better system than the old York system in the 70-73 cars. Easy to work on though the evaporator is kind of a pain. I'd rather have the extra 100 pounds and vents that cool to 35 degrees as mine does here in Southern California at least during the summer and early fall.

This is the third time I've read that statement and I'm still trying to understand it.

I dno't tinhk yvo'ue qtiue got teh hnag of it.

I've seen them on eBay. I don't know how well they sell. A Sanden compressor based system with an upgraded blower motor would work much better in a 240 than the original style dealer installed system.

TSP (Tri Sodium Phospate) if you can find the real stuff and oxalic acid are both excellent at removing mildew stains. They don't do much for the smell, kinda like replacing one smell with another, but they do remove mildew.

A/C is always worth it if you're in a climate where it is necessary. I'm a MVAC tech so I have access to freon so the cost isnt that bad for me. I have done a couple of guys 240Z York systems and was able to get them to blow 40 degrees at the vents. Newer systems are a little colder but 40 isn't that bad. The main drawback in the early add on systems wasn't the system itself but the stock 240 blower motor wasn't as powerful as it could have been.

When I got mine it had been sitting for four years and my left rear was stuck. I don't really recommend the way I broke it loose but when we went to pick it up we dragged it a few feet behind the tow vehicle and it broke loose! The shoes were stuck to the drum and dragging them actually seperated the brake material from the metal part of the shoe which allowed me to take the drum off. The minor damage it caused didn't really matter to me because I was planning to replace all of the rear brake hardware including the drums anyway.

Diluted TSP is always good for mildew. You can find it in harware stores with the cleaning solutions or sometimes in the grocery stores.

Like I said, I'm not knocking you, just stating my point of view. I wouldn't do it but that doesn't mean you can't.

Look for Michael Perdue's paint code thread. It just dropped off the front page this morning due in large part to those 3 SFART threads that could have been one or even none if he had searched :tapemouth .

Especially in a home built, hybrid with very little (like no) mention of any safety type modifications. Let's see, so far you have a 400-500 hp SBC, a roll cage, a 6speed trans and plans for a new rear end. What about brakes, suspension, aerodynamics (mentioned extensively here as a definite problem at that speed), and driving skill. I'm not knocking your driving skill, I don't even know you but who really has enough skill to drive a car on public roads at that speed with all of the potential varibles and dangers? You'd be relying on luck. Dream on, rock on!

Rghit hree no tish stie!

Yeah, but it's been done on this site before.

And the example for 510 blue is mine.

I'd like to see that one.

It that an Australian take off on the 'fig plucker' poem I learned in my youth? Or vice versa?

Three!!!!!

Early Crankshaft Design??

OEM Surplus has two of these left. They are the complete shifter assy.for an automatic up to 73 and they are new. The msrp is something like $272 but he generally sell stuff for 25% so it would cost you about $70 or so. http://www.oem-surplus.com/nwp/index.htm Right click on the page and look in 240Z, 260Z, 280Z (1970-1978)

I think Nissan made the change from gross to net in 1979. The 78 L28E was rated at 170HP/5600RPM vs 150HP/6000RPM for the L24, both of which are net HP. The lower HP ratings for the L28E began in 1979.