sblake01

95 is WAY too high. According to the FSM that pressure should be 36.3 psi.

If you're talking about releasing the fuel pressure in the efi car:

Okay, I stand enlightened. But surely that leaking fuel injector or leaking pressure regulator would show symptoms that would cause me to repair it before it caused more serious damage like washing the oil from the bearings, sooting up the cylinder, etc. I'm trying to recall if you (clutch07182) are the guy that replaced the fuel pressure regulator. If so, you can rule that out assuming that you replaced it with a new or known working fpr. If you have a fuel pressure guage, install it between the fuel filter and the fuel rail and run the car. It should show somwhere between 35-37 psi. (the FSM says 36.3) When you shut it off it should hold that pressure. If not, something is leaking.

I think your're still looking beyond the potential problem. The fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel filter, suddenly all going bad from one drive? Look at the relays I mention earlier. You won't really hear the fuel pump running when you turn the car on. It's at the rear of the car and doesn't make much noise. You'd have to be back there with a stetoscope (sp?) to hear it. I also wouldn't go replacing the metal lines as they always show a little rust on the outside. If you drove the car home and it ran normally then, which I'm assuming since you really haven't told us how it ran before it stopped, I just can't see all the things you're checking going bad all at once. Again, first things to check--ignition relay, fuel pump relay 1, fuel pump relay 2, electrical part of ignition switch. If those are okay then move on to non electrical parts of the EFI system.

I'm not sure on this since I've not dealt with 240z's/260z's lately but didn't the 260 have a rocker switch mounted in the console for the antenna? In the wide slot to the right just ahead of the shifter?

Not sure if I get that. Fuel in the crankcase is never a good thing. Remember John Candy's car in 'Uncle Buck'?

Gary is correct. Replace it asap. They were not designed to run constantly engaged and the next step is complete failure of the shaft bearing. Does yours wobble? Had this happen on a 510 which is a little different since the clutch in integral with the water pump, but the result would be similar. No hood damage since the fan shoud kept the fan from going upward but the radiator was toast.

I don't think Gary (or I) were trying to incinuate that you were dumb. It's just that I knew quite a bit about engines when I got my Z with EFI. Hell, I've owned 45 cars and a few motorcycles in my lifetime. But the Z is a different story. You really have to get to know the system and I have been working towards that for the last seven years! Prior knowledge is definately a plus, but this system is somewhat unique with its relays, swithches, resistors, etc.

Well, as he says in his ad, I would assume that, as my British friend would say, the price would probabably be a bit dear!

Maybe after hearing some of Bill's stories about the car, it should be parked. But seriously, check you ignition relay and if it's okay check the fuel pump relays since any of the three can stop the fuel pump from working. You could have just checked the current at the fuel pump rather than removing it. You should follow the correct troubleshooting procedure rather than just throwing parts at the problem. Could get expensive. There is a troubleshooting checklist in the FSM.

No I don't have a part number. It's not a K&N just a look alike I found during a junkyard trip.

Those brackets are not epoxied to the tubing. The tubing goes through the brackets with a rubber insert inside of each bracket and they hold the tube fairly solidly. It's just an experiment and I'm still working on something better. Swirl effect? Now I think your're overthinking it.

I also think that 2" is a little small but I still think it flows better than the stock airbox. The gas mileage has increased slightly. I am also still researching. That was just one of a couple experiments that I have tried.

That link basically shows the factory air system in the diagram taken from the FSM. However, the following pictures show the A.R.A. system which is the dealer add on system that so many Zs got back in that era. I have it in my car. It's a decent system. It uses a Sankyo SD 508 compressor which was also used in many imports in that era. Mazda RX7, some of the Mitsubishis, Toyotas, etc. The receiver/drier is pretty generic and can be found at most ac shops. I can get them for $14.95! As for the rest of the system you can still get that compressor, and condensor, but the evaporator is no longer made but an ac shop can have that rebuilt and they use a fairly generic expansion valve. I don't think that underhood pictures of my system would really show much. The compressor is on the lower left side of the engine with lots of things to obscure the view, the evaporator is under the dash in the center, the compressor is behind the grille, and the receiver/drier is right behind the left shock tower.

I've already done the hardware store thing (I work at ACE Hardware). If you use 2" abs with slip couplers on the ends and a 90 degree elbow for the bend, the outer diameter of the couplers is just about perfect. I think it's kind of mickey mouse however but it will give you the correct lengths which can be used as a template for something better. I didn't post this picture before because this is just temporary.

I did find a pair so pm me if you want them.

I'd like to see a picture of your 810. Don't see many of them around anymore.

They are all pretty much the same other than the color of the wires and the color of the connector itself. Except for the one that goes to the throttle switch which has three wires instead of two. They do get brittle so you have to be careful with them. I'm pretty good at soldering so I decided to change them all after having a couple of them break. As far as a forum for other Datsuns, I never noticed one except for the 240K forum. If you ask questions here, I will try to help if I can. And if anyone wants to whine about it not being Z related, well I've more or less learned to ignore the whining since there always seems to be so much of it here

I answered him with a picture in one of the other threads. He asked this same question three different places.

The tube needs to be 60mm or roughly 2.75" o.d. I'm still looking for one, maybe in aluminum, that I could make work. With all the different setups out there for the rice cars, the must be one that can be adapted. I just don't like the idea of using exhaust pipe.

How's your 810 coming along? I'm in the process of replaing all of the a/c components in mine. Compresser, condenser, receiver/dryer, and expansion valve. The receiver/dryer was the hardest part to source since they are no longer produced. I may have purchased the last two available in the US.

To change it basically all you need is a phillips screwdriver, a 10mm socket, a ratchet, and patience.

He needs both. I also may have them. Have to look through some stuff. Where are you loctated, Ravencree?

Michael Purdue has that color on his chart but only a chip. No car shown for an example. http://www.datsunprojects.org/zpaintcodes/ BTW the sample for 510 Sky Blue Poly is my car

He welded the wiper arm to the shaft on the wiper motor? I don't think I'd have gone that route.