sblake01

My only question would be WHY? There was a guy in Pomona, California when I was growing up that had a lot full of Corvairs. Must have been over 50 of them.

My 78 has them opposite of your picture as shown in the owners manual. I don't know what problems that would cause but if it were my car, I would change them.

The connections at the fuel pump are pretty solid. (10mm nuts, lockwashers over studs) Now, a frayed wire back there is possible but I've never run into that on either of my cars. The relay is also a posobility but a bad one probably wouldn't allow the car to run at all. But I have experienced intermittent stalling which I was able to trace to a bad connection at the temp sensor.

Here's what I found in the 79 810 FSM. Apparently it's a emissions control device that works during deceleration and shouldn't cause any problems by not being there except allowing more HC emissions during deceleration. It was probably stuck which would cause your engine to race. Try some WD40 or your penetrating oil of choice on the shaft and see if you can make it move freely.

I'll have to look that up. (The daspot) I've never driven without it so I'll have to read up on it's function. The water temp sensor is the one on the right of the water neck with a two wire connector. It's smaller than the thermotime switch which is to the left.

Not a stupid question at all. Had a guy over on Nissan Froums that thought his 1981 200SX was rare! Then he wanted to argue with me when I set him straight. They (240K) were never imported here but I have seen a few that guys have brought over here. There's a really nice silver one that makes most of the SoCal Datsun shows. And as for part 2? Well, as the old saying goes, 'all it takes is money'.

My first was a 1958 Rambler American as I stated earlier. As far as ugly goes, I'm not sure a Vanguard has anything for these!

The gust of air from the fuel cap is normal. Could be fuel realated as Zedrally says, but when I had a similar problem with my 810 it turned out to be a bad connection at the temperature sensor. I cleaned the connector and the problem went away but I ultimately changed the connector since it was cracked and brittle as they all seem to get over time.

You're in the wrong thread!

I bought a console from VB a couple of years ago and it was an OEM Nissan item. I guess it would depend on what part you are buying from them.

That would be a Bluebird I guess. Forerunner the the US Maxima. It really didn't fall into any particular name type catagory. It's more or less a 200B with the front streched, and an L24E for an engine. I also own one, a 1979 2 dr. So, wm e smith, what kind of problems are you having?

Z Owners of Northern California

That's the color I thought he was reffering to. I don't think that link I posted earlier was working but I fixed it. I don't think that clicking on the colors leads anywhere but at least you can see the color chart. And thanks again to Michael Purdue for that link.

I don't know if you would say that it's common, but over the years I've seen a number of Z cars and others with the L6/5spd combo with that problem here in the US.

What is the paint code? I've never heard of a Z color actually called 'butterscotch'. Check here and see if it is one of these colors. http://datsunprojects.org/zpaintcodes/

Jail bait!

Come to think of it, I did have mine off for a couple of days. I was changing the a/c evaporator and I needed to remove the heat shield to remove one of the high side lines. I drove it that way until I was satified that the a/c was working correctly. It didn't seem to cause any problems.

I was able to find this picture which was taken from: http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/bv/vanguard.htm

I've never driven the Z without the shield but the 810 doesn't have one. There is more room between the exhaust manifold and the brake master in the 810 than in the Z, however, so I guess Nissan didn't feel that it needed one. Why, is yours missing?

I have a place I go to for alignments. I trust them and they know these cars. I've been going to them for years. When I first went there in 1992, they were only 5 minutes away from my home in La Verne, Ca. I have since moved to Upland, Fontana, and now San Bernardino. I still go there for alignments even though I'm now about 35 miles away.

I bought that tip 8 years ago from Summit Racing. Never considered a dual tip. Seems like it would end up real close to the bumper end if you mean horizontally. I doubt if a vertically mounted dual tip would work either since the tip exits the lowest point of the muffler.

It all came apart and went back together fairly easily but I really took my time. I only worked on it off and on since I was working a real job then and I had another car. I bought it in June 1997 and it was roadworthy by October. But like I said, I took my time and did a few other things besides the suspension and steering.

Well, I can relate to what you're feeling. When I first bought mine it needed everthing you mention but I went out and drove it anyway once I got the engine running. The front end was so loose that I nearly lost it before I had a chance to start getting it to where it is today. Believe me, it's worth the wait! Once I finished the front end, as well as rear brakes and tires, it handled like a new car.

Believe me, Christopher, I'm not trying to fight with you. It's just that at 55 years old, a lot of this stuff is 'been there-done that' for me. I have run a 160 degree thermostat in California in the summer and have not encountered heating problems because of it. I don't run them now because in the winter they don't allow your heater to get as warm as a 180 degree 'stat does.

Okay but it sits awfully close to the gas tank. Were you able to get the muffler to fit inside the heatshield with it mounted horizontally? I have a Dynomax Super Turbo with basically the same configuration as your Flowmaster. It's mounted vertically and it fits fine, it's inside the heatshield and away from the gas tank. That's all I meant by 'fitting better'.