sblake01

It's a 1600. There would be a 'D' emblem in the grille for the 2000 and no emblem in the grille for a 1600.

How steep was the downhill?

I'd lean toward bearings. If you had peices of valves make it to the oil pan, chances are you would be looking at replacing the block and head too.

Well, I guess anything is possible. Up until last weekend I had never seen or heard of a LHD Sunny pickup. Turns out that they were made in Guatemala. I doubt that Skylines were ever made there but possibly in some other LHD countries. Which brings up the question: Besides USA, Mexico, Central and South America, Canada, what other countries are LHD?

I also use Hagerty for the Z and the truck. Can't beat the price and it fits the way I use them. The 810 and J30 are our daily drivers and insured on a regular policy with Allstate. The tow package isn't that important to me since we have AAA+ cards. I intend to check this year with Hagerty if it's possible to drop their tow package.

1976 and 1979, they're both 620's.

If you find them here in the self service yards, and remove them yourself, they only cost about $40! Youv'e got to be quick because many people are aware of their popularity and they don't last long. I just saw one today. LD28 upside down, leaning against the front bumper of a Maxima wagon with the crankshaft gone. I see them with diesel engines still in tact but I don't think I'll ever build a stroker and with what it takes to get the crank out, I would want at least $100 for the labor.

My brother used to refer to his engine as the 'Nascar motor.' I think the actual car they used in Nascar was the Torino Talladega.

Bill do you really have a 76 120 pickup? Or do you just not know the proper numbers for the trucks since you also list a 79 '520' 4x4? A 76 120 would be a 'Sunny' which were not actually sold in the US but a few have been bought in from South America (lhd) or overseas (rhd) and a 520 was only built from 65-69.

There are so many cool cars. I forgot to mention the 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 429 that my brother once owned. That car would give the Hemi Cuda and Challenger a run for its money especially from a roll. I seem to remember his car being geared more for top end that off the line. I've never ridden in anything that would accelerate from 60mph on up like that car.

I don't know, this loud exhaust thing, must be a younger generation thing. I like the feeling of pulling away from a loud car with my fairly quiet exhaust(Dynomax Super Turbo mufffler) being drowned out by that much louder ehxahust as it's fading behind me. :devious:

I once had a Yamaha YR1 350 twin, I forget the year but it was early 70s. It was ported and had aftermarket exhaust. That little sucker screamed!

The symptoms you describe would point me in a similar direction. AFM, bad vac hoses, TPS, air regulator, fuel pressure regulator, ignition control module, etc. Anything that would affect the fuel mixture or weaken the spark. Sounds like they know what they're doing. I just hate to replace a bunch of expensive parts.

Well the Nissan F.I. system is based on the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection used on BMW, Mercedes etc. But it is their own version of the system. Through the years, parts have been interchanged such as the air regulator, the thermotime switch, the temperature sensor, etc. with the German counterparts. The Nissan parts were made by JECS. The Bosch parts are interchangable and, in my opinion, better. If you have a VDO (German) thermotime switch, it has been changed from the original JECS (Japaneese) thermotime switch. The German parts were common replacements on the 280Z, 280ZX, 810, 910 (Maxima) and any of the other 4 or 6 cylinder cars with L or Z (N.A.P.S.) engines. My own personal research which spans about 15 years now does show that the German parts actually last longer. The thermotime switch and temperature sensor from any of the late 70s to mid 80s BMW 6 cylinder engines work on any of the L series f.i. engines but only the air regulator with the number '0 280 140 124' will work on the Z engine. I believe that one comes from the 80 to 83 BMW 6 cyl.

Are we talking about the Electronic Ignition Control Module? How do you know it's bad? How is the car acting? Be careful because the 82-83 module is different from the other years.

Evidentally, the original hoses are still available. On my 78, I had my heater core, and all the valves, water and vent hoses, clamps, etc. replaced last year by a buddy of mine at his shop. He used all OEM stuff exc. the core itself. I have also found good vent hoses at the junkyard to use as backup.

Welcome Shawn! For a grand, I'd say 'ya done good!'

Welcome, Peter! In my experience, you can't go wrong with Les. That car is nice. Here's a pic from last year's Mossy show for those that don't know the car. I agree that it will be even more stunning w/o the cf hood. See you there Oct. 13.

That one is already the subject of a recent thread.

See post #2.

Here are a couple of shots of the relay box on my 78. Hope it answers your question.

I'm not giving up on you. When I read the original thread, I tried it. A guy down the street from me that is into Hondas had a Civic bar in his garage and he owed me a favor. I got the bar for free and attempted to install it on my 78. Being fuel injected, the bar has to clear the auxilary air valve or air regulator as Nissan calls it, and for that reason, the hood wouldn't close. Maybe you won't have that problem since you're carbed. Hence the comment, 'if he wants to build his own brace, let him.' Didn't work for me but it might for you.