sblake01

I doubt they'd be the same. B210s had 13" wheels.

Those links don't work, at least, not for me.

Water temp sensor, fuel pressure regulator, air regulator, etc. There are a number of things that could cause that type of idle problem on the FI cars, air leaks are just one of them. Go through the FI troubleshooting list in the FSM.

The clutch parts match up with the trans. The flywheel shouldn't make any difference. In other words, with the combination you describe, you shouldn't have any problems.

Could also be the fuel pressure regulator. At what point in the system did you check the fuel pressure?

Like I said before. Several times in this thread. All insurance companies have guidelines, like it or not. When you sign up with them you are entering into a contract. Read those guidelines. If they don't fit your situation don't sign up with them. We can speculate about whether on not they know how you drive your car for ten more pages. Or how lack of use affects a car. Or ways to get around their rules. Or how you do or don't take care of your car. A 17 year old driving back and forth to school and work: classic car insurance is not for you. Those who want to race their cars (however you want define racing): it's not for you. Those who want to get groceries and run other errands: same ol same ol. Taking extra care of your car includes not parking it in the Ralphs or KMart parking lot. No one is 'insinuating' that they take better care of their car than anyone else. I take the same care of all of our cars. The difference is the daily drivers aren't in the garage and the garaged vehicles don't go to work, school, or the store.

And I have also heard that the turbo oil pump uses more hp besides not actually increasing the oil pressure. Your low reading could simply be a bad sender or guage.

Carl, I understood the point of this thread when I first read it. Too bad you have to defend your point of view to those who dont get it and I have come to the conclusion on this site that the more you try to defend the more muddled it all becomes. How is this political? You are simply listing names of those killed in action. They do deserve our support. Lots of people are spouting off thier political views here as if they have the answer. I know I don't. That is why I won't partake in such a discussion. We all disagree enough already when it comes to the cars.

Now, that's a scary thought! :nervous:

I haven't had a claim in the 6 years I've been with Hagerty. I also use the vehicles pretty much as they outline. Not because that's how it's set up but because that's just how I drive them. Shows, club meets, etc. along with an occaisional drive to lunch with my wife on Wednesdays. You determine how you use your car. Again, I say, if you have any reservations, it's probably not for you.

To me, it's pretty simple. If you have a need to do things with your vehicle other than the general outline for usage as stated by Hagerty or Grundy, don't get that type of insurance. They don't expect you to have a purpose built show car but they do expect you to treat your car with more concern and caution than you would a daily driver. That is why one of the requirements is that each liscensed driver in the household has a vehicle that is covered by a regular insurance carrier. They (the classic-type carriers) are giving you a policy for a value you set and charging you about one tenth of what a regular carrier would charge. You would expect the guidelines to be somewhat strict. If you have any reservations about that then classic car insurance is not for you.

Thanks, for the heads-up. I've been a AAA member for 20 years and never thought of them for this type of insurance. I'll check it out and compare it to the coverage I presently have from Hagerty on my Z and L320.

FSM=Factory Service Manual. I believe the other part your are referring to is the thermotime switch. It sends the signal to the cold start valve.

Well, Jerrod, I guess if I could think back that far, I'd remember that that is the same way I learned how to work on them. :classic:

It's located on the side of the throttle body. It's the black box secured with two mounting screws. Remove the connector and you'll see three numbers on the throttle position sensor that correspond with the three terminals. Check for continuity between terminals 29 and 30. If it's good but needs to be adjusted that is kind of a hands-on thing but it's outlined in the FSM.

Throttle position sensor?

That would be the 57 south to Katella Ave. but then again I can't name the freeways/highways in Florida.:classic:

It just seems like a lot of wasted time, effort, and money to tear an engine apart several times to accomplish what could be done with one tear down. The 'concern' should be yours, it's not my car. It was just an opinion. While I do not consider my self a "master" as you signature line states I do have a lot of experience with these cars and you do seem to be soliciting advice.

IIRC, VB sells remanufactured oem units while Motorsport Sells new aftermarket units. I purchased one in 1998 for my 78 from VB and it is still problem free to this day.

Are there shops that still do that?

If I were you, I wouldn't be running that freshly installed head gasket too long (if at all) without some kind of cooling.

The cold start valve puts extra fuel in the system to start the car when it's cold hence the name. It is supposed to get a signal from the thermotime switch for 8 seconds when the coolant temperature is below 35C. If it runs after that all it is doing is richening the fuel mixture and therfore making acceleration 'doggy' as you put it. I can't fathom why someone would hook it to a toggle switch. It defeats part of its function. I works in conjunction with the thermotime switch, the temperature sensor, and the air regulator to sustain a high enough idle speed to allow the car to reach operating temperature. If turning the idle screw (atop the throttle body) has no effect, you have other problems. I guess you could say the cold start system is like a choke but not the cold start valve itself. I have two cars with this system. A number of sensors are used to read the engine speed, throttle valve postition, water and air temperatures and aid flow through the intake. This info is sent to the ecu which generates the fuel injection pulse. The system is complex. I could try to explain but it would be easier for you to check out the items that webdawg1 suggested as this type of thing is tough to diagnose without actually seeing your car.

Did you check your EGR valve before replacing it. Pull vacuum through the valve and see if it holds the diaphraghm up. If it does then it's still good. Use a piece of a metal coat hanger to force the carbon through the egr port. But as far as the idle thing, check between the folds in the throttle body boot for cracks. If you find cracks then you need to replace the boot. That idle problem can also be cause by a improperly adjusted BCCD. If your car is a California car, it has an altitude sensor which can also cause this problem. The FSM covers the adjustment of the BCCD and the altitude sensor if your car has one. Look into those things first before you remove the manifold. I doubt if the egr valve would cause the idle to remain high when the car is warm. People have removed them and blocked the opening in the manifold with no effect on the idle speed. I am not suggesting you do that but a plugged up egr port is really no different than a blocked off one.

I saw it at my brothers house, taped it, watched it at home, then deleted it. Like Carl said, not much of any real use in the short segment that covered the MSA show.