sblake01

The 350ZX (excuse me, Z) is, as stated by the very author of this thread, built for a different purpose that the S30. If you like it, you like it. But don't try to force me to like it. And if I don't, I'm crochety? Old? Need to change my adult diaper? No, I just don't like it. And it seems the more we discuss it on a 'Classic Z' site the less I like it.

I would be less concerned about the oil pan and more concerned about the fact that that kind of power in this 30+ year old HYBRID Z would soon twist it into a pretzel. Why revive this thread?

I have found one of these rims through the 'wanted to buy' section on the Skylines Australia site. He wants $50-AUD which is not a problem. That's only about $35-USD. Shipping through FedEx for one wheel is over $200! Does anyone over there know of a less expensive way to ship a wheel from Coomera Shores to the USA?

Go for it, Chris! It would be great to have Zs with back to back numbers. (Great for you, not me considering that I own '462153rd-Z) :laugh:

Well put! I have always used the OE alternator on every Datsun i've ever owned without any of the problems I read about here. The more a car is modified from stock especially in the area of electrical or fuel delivery the more advice you'll have to seek since there are no established benchmarks for troubleshooting the problems you may encounter.

I figured they were different. I do, however, have a good working pair for 74-78 if anyone is interested in them.

Do you know if 77-78 hatch struts will work? If so, I have a good pair. The microfiche shows different numbers for 71-72 and 76 and up however.

I think this it the one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=2485459700&rd=1

On my 78 you can press down the lock button with the door open or closed but it will only lock if you lift the outside handle while closing the door. The inside handle won't unlock the door unless the lock button is pulled up. About the ignition: If you can pull the key out in any position other than lock, the tumbler is worn. This is such a common thing on many Zs that people think it's normal. In both my Z and my 810 the key can only be removed when the ignition is in the lock position.

Make sure that they (the DGV's) close completely when the engine is idling. I had a similar problem when I had one of those on my 521. Also, 20 degrees sounds like a lot of advance.

Either he's got about a 3.00-1 rear end (not even sure if that would do it), doesn't know how to calculate mpg, or he's full of crap! Been dealing with these cars for almost 35 years and the best I've ever seen from a L-engine Z car is the 28.4 I got last summer in my 78.

I don't like it either but I have a friend who has a shop in Los Angeles and they have done them. They're fairly cheap to do since he gets the whole front clip for $1500. I, personally, would rather see the SR20DET in a 510 or 521-620-720 etc. Spmetjhing that you would expect to see a 4 banger in. I once thought of putting one in my 320. Talk about a 'death machine!' :eek:

That's kinda how I feel about mine! :eek:

Those are the factory alloys for my 810. I already have the factory alloys on my Z. Remember I tried to buy the center caps from you? Well, I did find a set of those rims, caps and all. But back to the 810 rims, I did find two of them about a year ago but I didn't buy them because there was only two. Now, I wish I had. :stupid:

Well, I found three of them. I was walking through a local junkyard and saw three of these on a 1981 280ZX 2 + 2! They are in excellent shape but I still have the problem of finding one more. If anyone knows the whereabouts of one, I will entertain all offers.

The hazards, parking lights, and brights are on different circuits (battery) than the turn signals(ignition). Although the turn signal circuit is completed by the hazzard switch. Sounds like you shorted out the turn signal part of the switch/assembly that controls the turn signals and high beams. You may be able to fix it but I think replacement is in order. These observations are from my car, a 78, but I think the other years are similar.

The angle of the base on the ZX mirrors won't allow them to sit properly on a 240/260/280. Also, if the switches aren't placed somewhere where they point forward the up/down or left/right function will be backwards.

Yeah, that's the USA version of the Nissan Leopard. I hear they even had a V8 at one point, but not here. It's very quiet and smooth riding which I'm not used to considering what I drive, but that's my wife's car and she loves it. That VG30 has more power than she'll ever need. I'd like to swap differentials with her, however!

There's also a couple of pictures of my 810 at Mossy. http://katysnest.com/mossynissan-sep2003/DSCF0065.JPG http://www.katysnest.com/mossynissan-sep2003/DSCF0066.JPG

We too, have a new member. It's an Infiniti J30. RWD, limited slip R200, VG30, automatic overdrive, 4 wheel discs, and though its not a Z, it's still in the Nissan family, has some Z32ish stuff going on and though it's my wifes car I don't mind driving it once and a while. Better that the Olsmobile Alero she wanted!

We too, have a new member. It's an Infiniti J30. RWD, limited slip R200, VG30, automatic overdrive, 4 wheel discs, and though its not a Z, it's still in the Nissan family, has some Z32ish stuff going on and though it's my wifes car I don't mind driving it once and a while.

The best mpg I ever achieved in my basically stock 78 w/a later model 5 spd. is 28.4. That was on a trip up north, all highway driving. The best I ever achieved in the 810 (L24E) is 26.6. Smaller engine, heavier car, lower 5th gear. I have never heard of a Z carbed or f.i. actually getting 30 mpg. I was hard pressed to get that back when I had my 510 and it was stock.

Try this, mine is also a 78:

I also saw a manifold on L series six in the junkyard on with a downdraft type throttle body fuel injection setup. I have no idea what it's out of and it's the only one I have ever seen.

You have to use a fuel tank designed for fi. The stock 240 tank doesn't have the baffling needed to prevent fuel starvation. Everything I mentioned and more would have to be changed over to the 240 if you want the car to run right. Like I said, do A LOT of research before you tackle this one. I don't think you realize what you're getting yourself into. And if you are succesful with the swap you won't have the option of going back and forth between carbs and fi. It's either one or the other. I'M OUT. . . .