sblake01

Wiring harness? All fuel lines? Fuel pump? Relays? ECU? Gas Tank? All of those things and more would have to be changed in order to change a 72 to a fi 79 ZX system. Some people use a stand alone engine management system for this type of conversion. Like I said in my other post, if it has carbs, keep the carbs. A lot of skill and knowlege is necessary to do this swap. If you've never done this type of swap before, seek outside help.

I always thought that you run the lowest octane that your car will run on without pinging and anything else you're just spending extra money. As far as the leaded/unleaded thing goes gas has an additive to serve the function that lead once served at least that is what I have read on the labels on the gas pumps.

True. But after dealing with FI for so long, I know what to mentally eliminate, so it's really not that time consuming. Now carbs . . . well there's adjustments, syncronization, balance tubes, damper oil, etc. I guess it's all in what you're used to.

Not really. Based on the particular problem, there is a particular direction you go in. I guess after dealing with Bosch type fuel injection off and on for fifteen years or so, it's second nature for me also.

I would at least put a belt on it and see if it works. Working a/c isn't a bad thing in California. Saving a few pounds is really not a big deal on a 78.

Component age and parts availability? What parts are not available? I can get ahold of every f.i. system part. I even have lots of servicable spares. There are also parts from the euro cars (BMW etc.) that can be used and in some cases are actually better. I have two vehicles with Datsun/Nissan f.i. and have no problems with either of them. These cars can sit for months and then start up as if you drove them yesterday. I would never change a f.i. car to carbs but on the other hand I would never change a carb car to f.i. Each has its own set of potential issues and each can be dealt with. There a so many things that must be done in order to properly change a carbed car to f.i. If it has s.u.'s, stick with them.

I don't know if I would trust a junkyard fuel pump and there is no real way to test them. I believe that by the time the current runs through the relays and resistors in the fuel pump circuit, it's less than 12 volts. You could try MSA, Victoria British, or Midwest Z although Chloe seems to be overwhelmed right now. Or a Nissan dealer. I sourced mine through a Z shop in Upland, CA about 20 minutes from my home but you're in Canada.

Well, don't give up. I'm not calling you stupid. Who am I to say that? I'm sorry to have come off that way but it's so hard to diagnose these things and we have been through it a few times. I had similar problems when I got my 78 and I went step by step through the FSM to solve them. I have tried in some of your other posts to answer the questions based on my experiences with my car but there are so many things that can cause problems in a fuel injected car. I'm kind of a 'hands on' type of person. I can fix things if they are in front of me but it's hard to tell someone how to do it if I can't see it. Again, I apologize for my indescretion. It's been a bad day.:mad:

How many times have we been through this? You obviously don't have a clue. Find a good Z shop in your area and take the car there! (I may soon be following Keith (2ManyZs)

I emailed this guy with the '4-1-1' on these carbs. I doubt if he will appreciate it.:classic:

Front seal, rear seal, reverse light switch, speedo gear, it can leak from any of those. If you have a good inner shift boot, it shouldn't leak from there unless there's too much gear lube in the tranny. You can check the boot without dropping the tranny but you'll have to remove the console.

It comes from personal experience. Did that years ago to my first 510.:stupid:

Yeah but my bid is as high as I will go considering what needs to be done with it. I've seen the car at a couple of the SoCal shows. 'Fairly' nice up close. Don't like the Z31 wheels, the sunroof, and a few other things but my bid probably won't hold up until the auction closes.

Remember that Mike W said that he didn't properly wedge the chain. His tensioner was probably wedged inside the cover no longer riding on the spring which would explain the deep grooves and then finally moved out of position allowing the chain to flex and you can see the results of that in his pictures.

For me, it has nothing to do with it being a 2 + 2. A car, any car, in this condition would require so much work to bring it back and I think that the time, effort, and money would be better spent on something else. Like and earlier Z or a Silvia.

If, as the seller says, "there is only ten of this cars in the US", it's time to reduce that count to 9. ROFL

The system I have is a dealer installed ARA system. It has the knob I described mounted on a small pod that mounts on the base of the dash adjacent to the side of the console on the drivers side. When I changed the knob, I had to remove the console. The end of the copper tube that is on the back of the switch is wedged in between the fins of the evaporator. There are differences in design since your car is earlier than mine but I think the knob serves the same function. I replaced mine because the compressor was on all the time.

Are you referring to the switch that turns on the compressor and has the long copper tube to sense temperature and shut it down if the unit gets too cold? If so, they are available at a/c shops. I just replaced the one in my 78.

They're both translucent white on my 78 280Z and 79 810. Mine don't have covers, I've never seen one with a cover on any year Z or described in any Z manual.

I believe that a 78 would be the 120Y type badged as a 'B210' because I had one. The B310 began in 79 and was badged as a '210' not 'B210'.

I get the same type of responses with my Z as well as the with 810 and the 64 L320. It's just something about cars from that era. Our Infiniti J30 which is from the 90's is constantly being mistsaken for an Altima (no real similarity) or some other car from the 90's but people seem to know a Z even if they don't know what Z it is. Cars had their own personality then.

Carfax will only work on cars with a 17 digit VIN. I think the 17 digit VIN began in 1981.

I don't know if this applies to Australia, but here in the US the early 260Z would be the ones built up to 7/74. I don't know if that means that they have the 240Z body but those were the ones with the smaller bumpers like a 73.

Too modern looking. Just not period correct for the first gen Z IMO. The few pounds of weight a fibreglass spoiler would add is really not an issue on a street car but that opening in the front makes me think of . . . Honda. (Sorry)