sblake01

Component age and parts availability? What parts are not available? I can get ahold of every f.i. system part. I even have lots of servicable spares. There are also parts from the euro cars (BMW etc.) that can be used and in some cases are actually better. I have two vehicles with Datsun/Nissan f.i. and have no problems with either of them. These cars can sit for months and then start up as if you drove them yesterday. I would never change a f.i. car to carbs but on the other hand I would never change a carb car to f.i. Each has its own set of potential issues and each can be dealt with. There a so many things that must be done in order to properly change a carbed car to f.i. If it has s.u.'s, stick with them.

I don't know if I would trust a junkyard fuel pump and there is no real way to test them. I believe that by the time the current runs through the relays and resistors in the fuel pump circuit, it's less than 12 volts. You could try MSA, Victoria British, or Midwest Z although Chloe seems to be overwhelmed right now. Or a Nissan dealer. I sourced mine through a Z shop in Upland, CA about 20 minutes from my home but you're in Canada.

Well, don't give up. I'm not calling you stupid. Who am I to say that? I'm sorry to have come off that way but it's so hard to diagnose these things and we have been through it a few times. I had similar problems when I got my 78 and I went step by step through the FSM to solve them. I have tried in some of your other posts to answer the questions based on my experiences with my car but there are so many things that can cause problems in a fuel injected car. I'm kind of a 'hands on' type of person. I can fix things if they are in front of me but it's hard to tell someone how to do it if I can't see it. Again, I apologize for my indescretion. It's been a bad day.:mad:

How many times have we been through this? You obviously don't have a clue. Find a good Z shop in your area and take the car there! (I may soon be following Keith (2ManyZs)

I emailed this guy with the '4-1-1' on these carbs. I doubt if he will appreciate it.:classic:

Front seal, rear seal, reverse light switch, speedo gear, it can leak from any of those. If you have a good inner shift boot, it shouldn't leak from there unless there's too much gear lube in the tranny. You can check the boot without dropping the tranny but you'll have to remove the console.

It comes from personal experience. Did that years ago to my first 510.:stupid:

Yeah but my bid is as high as I will go considering what needs to be done with it. I've seen the car at a couple of the SoCal shows. 'Fairly' nice up close. Don't like the Z31 wheels, the sunroof, and a few other things but my bid probably won't hold up until the auction closes.

Remember that Mike W said that he didn't properly wedge the chain. His tensioner was probably wedged inside the cover no longer riding on the spring which would explain the deep grooves and then finally moved out of position allowing the chain to flex and you can see the results of that in his pictures.

For me, it has nothing to do with it being a 2 + 2. A car, any car, in this condition would require so much work to bring it back and I think that the time, effort, and money would be better spent on something else. Like and earlier Z or a Silvia.

If, as the seller says, "there is only ten of this cars in the US", it's time to reduce that count to 9. ROFL

WELL PUT!! I know we'll get disagreements with this point of view but to each his own! I was brought up that way and I brought up my kid that way. (He's 24) It's old school and I see nothing wrong with it. I turned out okay, my son is doing just fine and all those little panty-waist kids that have been coddled by their panty-waist parents are the ones with all the issues. There is no damn way my kid was going to raise his voice to me, do drugs, defy me, or any of that kind of crap while he was living under my roof. Like the old saying goes, "I brought him into this world and I can take him out!"

They're both translucent white on my 78 280Z and 79 810. Mine don't have covers, I've never seen one with a cover on any year Z or described in any Z manual.

I get the same type of responses with my Z as well as the with 810 and the 64 L320. It's just something about cars from that era. Our Infiniti J30 which is from the 90's is constantly being mistsaken for an Altima (no real similarity) or some other car from the 90's but people seem to know a Z even if they don't know what Z it is. Cars had their own personality then.

Carfax will only work on cars with a 17 digit VIN. I think the 17 digit VIN began in 1981.

I don't know if this applies to Australia, but here in the US the early 260Z would be the ones built up to 7/74. I don't know if that means that they have the 240Z body but those were the ones with the smaller bumpers like a 73.

Too modern looking. Just not period correct for the first gen Z IMO. The few pounds of weight a fibreglass spoiler would add is really not an issue on a street car but that opening in the front makes me think of . . . Honda. (Sorry)

ARA is a HVAC company that did a lot of a/c installations for dealers back in the 70s. There's still and ARA shop in Ontario, CA. They repalced some parts and recharged my system back in 1997 before R12 became really expensive. My 78 has the ARA system and has a smaller version of that pod with just a single knob to control the compressor. In 78, you could get Nissan factory air or 'dealer installed air'.

On my 78 that turned out to be a leaking heater control valve and/or thermo control unit. I had the heater core, heater valve, thermo control unit, and all of the little hoses and clamps replaced last summer and haven't had a leak since. I check it regularly. I had changed the hoses and clamps myself and still, it leaked. It was drivig me nuts. Wasn't much of a leak just enought to be annoying. After getting tired of keeping a towel on the floor on the passenger side, and drying the floor everytime I drove it I went to my local Z expert, Elvin, in Upland, CA. It basically only leaked when the engine was running.

Echocluster, this site might be worth a look: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/index.htm

Makes perfect sense to me, kmack. I don't have any personal experience with Mikunis on Zs but I do have a single Weber 40DCOE on my L320. The first adjustment you describe makes it easier to drive normally while the second one is kind of like a quarter turn throttle on a motorcycle.

Doesn't leave us much to choose from, does it?:classic:

Being basically retired, I spend a bit of time on the home computer. But as far as Bill, well my family is from Guyana (South America). They all speak English. However, the English they speak and write, is quite different from what you hear on a daily basis. I think that growing up with that helped me in understanding English spoken and written with different inflections and pronunciations. With that as a background coupled with being black and growing up in Southern California, like ChrisA said, Bill is a piece of cake to understand. So is Kats. I would only correct someone's spelling on a technical term (remember 'anaphylaxis' Bill). I understood the purpose of the use of the spelling in the other thread ('Texens'). I would never be so bold as to correct someone's general conversation. It brings to mind an episode or M*A*S*H when Major Winchester was pointing out the grammatical and spelling mistakes in a letter for Radar's mom. Those of you familiar with it will remember Radar's response. Well, enough OT rambling. Bill, just be Bill. That's the best person you know how to be.

Yes they are all Hitachi made SU copies, even the flat tops. Bill, if you have round tops on an L26 it was converted. Without even knowing it you a right on another point. It is generally accepted that 260Z's were only made for the 1974 model year, usually reffered to as early or late (small vs big bumpers). But I have seen 260Z's with build dates as late as 11/74 and they are registered as 75's. I guess they ran behind on the development of the 75 280Z.