sblake01

Bill, if you haven't noticed any signs of damage, just drain the oil, change the filter, and refill it with the correct oil. I used to run ATF in the transmission of my motorcycles because I read somewhere that it makes them shift smoother. Not that that applies to your engine story.

I think 77 Z was referring to removing the speedo and tach. They both come out through the front which is why the dash cap gets in the way. Since the dash cap protrudes into the guage face holes, it would have to be removed before you can remove the speedo and tach. Then it's just a matter of unplugging the wiring and speedo cable, removing the fasteners and pushing the tach and speedo out towards the front of the dash. I hope I explained that clearly as the tach and speedo do not come out from behind the dash like the other three guages.

Why did you get rid of it? Was it a two door? I love my 79 810 2dr. I've seen one other one on the road since I've had mine. I've only seen two other 2dr 810s in the junkyard and one of them was my parts car that I sold to them! I see and occcasional 4 dr or wagon on the street or in the 'yards. Got any parts?

I took an old small phillips screwdriver, slightly smaller in diameter than the pins, and ground the tip off. I use it specifically to push in those pins. Of course, you still have to find them once you remove the panel.

You can remove the guages without removing the dash. It's difficult if not impossible to remove the speedo and tach with a half or full cap however because those caps extend into the cutouts in the dash for the guages.

The last thing you mention (turn signals) sounds like a bad flasher unit. How do your headlights/marker lights act when the key is in the lock or off position? If they still act the same as you described, then the problem is in the light switch/turn signal stalk itself. I'm assuming that you've checked the fuses.

Since we're doing 'show and tell', my 78 has the list in the attachment in the tool bag as well as the 4 lug nuts in a plastic bag that says 'CAUTION If your car is equipped with aluminum wheels, be sure to use the lug nuts in this bag for mounting Space Saver Spare Tire.' It has the NISSAN MOTOR with the logo between the words and on the other side I believe it says the same thing in kanji.

They have to be made of neoprene to be fuel and oil resistant. Not 'buna' or 'nitrile'. 'Your helpful hardware man'

I had the same thought on my 78 when the plastic lever that controls opening and closing of the vent broke on mine. Much easier to change out the whole control unit since you have to remove it anyway.

I too have heard of people changing the timing cover seal on a 'L' engine without removing the timing cover but I've never tried it. The times that I have done it I had the cover off because I was doing other things to the motor.

I doubt if anyone here has done or would do that:ermm:

This one?

While we do have some members with V8's here and occaisonally there's a post like the one recently that had an Infiniti VH45DE in and early Z, that sort of thing is not a very common topic here. I think you would find more of that type of info on a site like HybridZ. I'm not trying to put you off or come off as 'jolty' as that term was used earlier, it's just that the majority of us have some form of the Nissan L series 6 cylinder engine in our cars and would be more adept in answering questions along those lines. I, for one, however, would like to see your progress on this project.

Do you mean hantavirus ?

He's not looking to retrofit it. In his second post he states that the previous owner had converted it to R134.

Removing the coil wire will keep the spark from unnecessarily going the the distributor and eliminate the need to worry about the spark arcing from the plug wires.

I don't know. . . . I just have a gut feeling, based on what I've read both here and on Zhome, that this car and the other one we recently critiqued, are NOT FRP cars. Too many inconsistancies. I realize that they were running out of parts towards the end of the program and that's one of the reasons that it ended. But I think that they could have found 43 sets of correct wheels and hubcaps. There never was a alloy wheel option until 74. Many early 240s had wheels that were installed by the dealer. They simply contracted with the local tire shop to get them. That doesn't make it a 'factory' option and therefore they don't belong on a 'restoration'. Scott and Vicky's car is a documented FRP car. If these opportunists on eBay can't produce the same kind of documentation, then all they selling is a cleaned up 240Z. There wouldn't be overspray on the tag or the lack of luggage straps or wrong seats or wheels etc. if it was a FRP car. Maybe one or two of those things, but not such a long list. I just don't buy it.

The method I described works. You don't have to worry about the cold start valve as outlined by 78 280Zcar because it won't release the fuel in it if the engine is warm. Don't forget to pull the coil wire.

Okay. Thanks, guys. It was just a thought. Datto-Zed, those aren't the same ones. I guess it was just a U.S. thing.

If you do that, you'd still be pumping fuel. I'd just disconnect the fi relay and coil wire.

Isn't the compression ratio on a L28ET 7.38-1? I would think that would make the compression lower than the standard 130-150.

Or, 1kW=1.34HP

Also, they need it so they can get the food at the drive-thru!

Yeah, the cars I mentioned were slugs except for the performance versions of the Nova. I, too, would like to see some numbers on this Holden.

It's somewhat reminiscent of the U.S. Chevy Nova, Olds Omega, Buick Apollo, etc. of the same era. That's probably not by coincedence since Holdens are G.M. But remember, performacne not looks!