sblake01

A shop here in So Cal quoted me a price of $4300 for the RB26DETT with trans, ECU, and harness (ECU to engine). All things, considered, that's probably not a bad price considering it is the twin turbo. You'd still have to deal with the fabrication (oil pan, motor mounts, transmount, wiring, etc.).

By 'a little worn' do you mean it's split and sucking air? If that's the case it is definately a problem! That would mean an intake leak and would throw off your air/fuel ratio.

Nissan's wiring logic on these cars has always seemed somewhat strange to me. I noticed on my 78 that all 35 pins are there like wal280z says on his 77. I have also noticed on 75 and 76 cars that there are a number of missing pins. (junkyard research) My 79 810 also has missing pins but not as many as a 75-76 and the 280ZXs and RWD Maximas are also slightly different. There is a warning label on the ECU to not use it in certain year cars. Each one is unique to the car or group of cars it was designed for and the harness will correspond to that particular ECU. Its not really a 'computer'. It can't be 'chipped', reprogrammed or modified. All it is capable of doing is what the various switches, sensors, and relays tell it to do. They very seldom go bad. When they do, it's usually due to moisture. All that being said, I'll move on to some other possible causes of your problem. Timing, vaccuum leaks, PCV valve, AFM, fuel pressure. It's a step-by-step process of elimination. Checks and tests of these things are outlined in the FSM. That is why I earlier suggested obtaining a FSM. It is more detailed and specific than Chiltons etc.

No, all the thermotime switch does is send a signal to the cold start valve when the engine temperature is cool enough to need it. Kind of like a choke. It gets a signal from coolant temperature and the starter. If its cold enough it will send the signal to the cold start valve to help the car start. If the thermotime switch is bad it will either never send the signal or send it all the time depending on whether its shorted open or closed. On the other hand if the cold start valve is bad it can leak also causing the car to run rich. With the thermotime switch off the car (or with the engine cool, check it's two terminals for continuity. It should have continuity when cold and none when hot. If it has continuity when hot then it's bad. The cold start valve can be tested by unsrewing it and lifting it out of the manifold. Place the end of it in a small container like a spray can cap and with everything else still connected (a good thermotime switch and the fuel and electrical connection to the cold start valve) start the engine. When cold if the cold start valve is good you should see a spray of fuel come out of it and the stop. When hot nothing should come out of it.

Check the thermotime switch/cold start valve circuit. If the thermotime switch is bad it can keep sending the signal to the cold start valve even after the cars starts which will cause it to run very rich. Also, of the cold start valve leaks it will cause richness.

I never suggested 'skimping' on motor oil. There are a lot of top quality brands out there. It comes down to personal preference. I think synthetic is overkill but that's just my opinion. I have never had a vehicle break down due to an oil related failure. And I've been driving for almost 40 years.

No, Carl, even Brother Ray could FEEL the ugly eminating from that thing!

Any additive that boasts about 'teflon' is a scam anyway. Back in the early 70s in a metallurgy class, I learned about the intense heat it would take to fuse teflon to any type of metal. So that stuff basically floats around in your engine and is dumped out with every oil change. Teflon in a liquid form is kind of a stretch anyway. True teflon is a solid. Just like the claims made about multiple electrode spark plugs. I have tried the single electrode platinum plugs and the only thing I can say is that the last a little longer, cost more, but do not develop any precivable performance gain. Conclusion: Use a good petroleum based motor oil changed at proper intervals, use the correct spark plugs (NGK) changed at the proper intervals. It has always worked for me.

They ran Valvoline. Those cars were one of the major reasons I became interested in Datsuns. And I used Valvoline for years. Until I concluded that motor oil is motor oil. As long as it meets the manufacturers specifications and you change it often enough. There may be some type of benefit in using the 'special' oils in racing applications but for a street car the benefit is negligable. (and more expensive) At nearly 54 years old, my race car days are behind me.:classic:

Well, Mike, I'm sorry for wording it the way I did. I had just come from another site (not Z related) that sometimes gives off those kind of vibes and this was the frist thread I viewed and I kind of overreacted. I wasn't pointing that personally at you, I just goes back to that Z-ZX thing that occaisonally surfaces here.

I don't see any reason to be snobbish. Alot of you out there are running ZX motors, brakes, and what not. I don't own a 240Z, but a 280Z (notZX) and sometimes the responses make me wonder why I'm here. The man simply asked a cooling system question. Cooling systems are pretty much the same whether it be a Z or a ZX. If you have a blockage in your radiator that will cause overhating. Sticking thermostat, bad thermocoupling (clutch fan), mis-adjusted timing, bad water pump, or even a loose fan belt can cause overhating. Hope that is of some help to you, silent, and I apologize for the rant.

Take a look at your connector. It shouldn't have terminals at the positions that correspond to the 'missing' pins on your computer. Don't confuse wire numbers with pin numbers. As wal280z said, some of the wires join at the connector and complete their particular function without going through the ECU. Whatever problem your're having, I wouldn't look to the ECU. As long as you have the one that belongs in that car and the car does run, I would just make sure the contacts are clean, plug it back in and then look elsewhere. (Relays, sensors, switches, etc.) I would also recommend a FSM rather than Chiltons, Haynes, Clymers, etc.

The 73 grille should fit the EARLY 260, but the LATE 260 and the 280z share a different grille.

And a ZX!:cross-eye

But where's the picture of Bruce Lee on the hood? I guess that would be one of those 'personal touches' that could be added later.:sick:

Actually, Kats is right. Both spellings (mustache and moustache) are correct. (Look it up) Now, let's talk about 'spelled' vs 'spelt.':classic:

26th-Z, did you mean: http://zhome.com/History/macau240Z.htm?

Check the attachment in my post on page one of this thread.

The L engine ECU is very simple. If I understand it correctly, all it does is what the various sensors tell it to do. There's nothing to modify unlike a modern ECU.

Dual Solexes were an option along with a higer lift camshaft on the 2000 roadster only. (150 hp vs the stock 135hp) The higher windshield came along in 67 1/2 on both 1600 and 2000 roadsters. The 2000 came along in 67 and was only available for that 1/2 year with the short windshield. They are rare (early 67 2000). I think the rarest roadsters are actually the 1970 model. They made less than 1300, that year,of both combined. I had a 1970 1600 roadster in which I installed the 2000 crank, rods, and pistions which could be done on the 5 main bearing 1600s. Essentially a stroker kit. I also put the 2000 5 speed and console in it. Back when I had it, the parts were much easier to get. Rust is even more of an issue with these cars than with the Z if you can imagine that. The eBay car looks pretty original though missing a few parts. (lack of an air cleaner stands out, tough to find)

However, like an RB, it required a LOT of fabrication. (read $$) I doubt if the results would be worth the cost. Why not put the effort into an L engine.

They sometimes take a while to answer. It might be better if you give them a call.

Well, I meant that hypothetically, I wouldn't really do it because I wouldn't be happy with it.

So if I were to take my 78, strip it down, paint it black, get the stripe kit and other accesories and a new paint code sticker, no one would be able to tell me that its not a BPE?:devious:

My car has a 82 Maxima 5 speed. It went in with no problem but I did use the shifter from my 78 5 speed. I'm not sure if that applies to your 73.