sblake01

Well, I've seen in both ways. Even in publications. I'm sure you're correct as my knowledge of those cars is; at best, limited. However, after doing some quick reaearch, I will change that 'y 'to an 'i' on every reference to them on my computer.:classic:

You'll have to remove the fan shroud first. Drain the coolant and reomove the upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove the splash pan from underneath. Remove the three screws that hold the two halves of the fan shroud together. Remove the lower half from underneath. Remove the screws that hold the upper half and remove it. I use a deep 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove the four bolts from the fan. Remove the four nuts from the fan clutch. When re assembling, if you put the retaining clips that hold the screws on the bottom half of the fan shroud, you can screw the two halves together from the top and next time you wont have to get underneath the car or drain the coolant to remove the fan and clutch.

Les Cannaday of Classic Datsun Motorsports has a 66 Sylvia that he is in to process of restoring. It's the only Sylvia I've actually seen in person. Here's a picture I took at last years Mossy Nissan show.

'Showing up' and being accepted are two different things. I've checked out the Empire Z site and it seems to be very Z31-32-33 oriented.

But, they are what belongs on the car. If you want the 'early chrome ones' get a car that has them IMO.

I'm using 4.0 maybe that's the problem. I'll try 6.0.

There is no option to save it to the hard drive.

That really isn't true. My 320 has no fan clutch. Nor did the roadsters as well as other non-Datsun cars I've owned.

You can spin the blades with the engine off. Also, the fan locks up when the engine is cold because the oil is cold. As soon as the oil warms sufficiently, the fan will slip until lock up is needed based on temperature. I don't really get the gist of this thread. Is your car overheating?

Wayne, you're going to have to talk us through printing that other than a single page because that's all I can get it to do. There is no 'print current view' option usless I'm missing something.

I find that to be an interesting trend. It seems that most of the manufacturers are using names from the 50s 60s and 70s to recapture some of the glory of what had to be a most successful era for the automotive industry. GTO, Thunderbird, Magnum, Super Bee (Rumble Bee??), Impala, etc. These newer cars don't appeal to me as ones they are named after did 'back in the day.' Maybe because I grew up with them or maybe becase I'm older. I just don't think the 80s 90s and 2k cars will have the same type of appeal in 30 years.

N34? Here is a list of the only stock L6 cylinder heads I've ever heard of: E31, E88, N42, N47, P79, P90, P90A, Y70, and E80. The latter two, as I understand it, were only on Australian cars and I've never seen either of them.

This car has been discussed several times here before. It seems to pop up on eBay every few months. Here's the link to the most recent: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12212&highlight=factory+restored

As I recall, Jason is also a member here.

Didn't we go through this before? In several other threads that you started about this car? If I remember correctly it was a 1979 ZX in the other threads and now it's a 1978 280Z? And we did talk about several things that could cause the problems you describe and now you've come full circle to what is basically where you began. Is this the same car or a different car? If it is the same car, and you followed the previous suggestions, then you need to look at the possibility that your gas tank is clogged from sitting for too long.

Sounds to me like you have a manual choke and you're simply not using it. As far as I know, no 240 or 260 ever had an electric choke. How did you decide that yours does? And the flat top carbs? If they work, keep them. Find that choke knob and pull it!

I came across that site about a year or so ago while looking for information on the 810. I couldn't find anything on the American 6 cylinder version of the 810 but everything else seems to be well covered on that site.

Just another one of those guys that when through the junkyard with a magnet! Have you seen his other items? He has an upper and lower 280Z grille advertised as a 240Z-260Z-280Z grille. His bidder IDs are kept private. I guess that's to avoid public embarrasment!

That's sblake01 and yes, I do smell you.

Or, maybe the connector to the AFM? Did that once changing the radiator in my Z.

A transmission jack or at least a transmission adapter for your floor jack is an indispensible investemt. Mine tilts, swivels and rotates making trans installation a one man job. Like they say, let the tools do the work.

I would seem to me that if only your fender was damaged by the accident and the insurance will cover it that do that. What does that have to do with the rust on the rest of your car? If you have rust in THAT FENDER then holpefully the rust in THAT FENDER will be taken care of. It's not the insurance company's job to restore your car.

That's why I had 'Courtesy Nissan' in quotatition marks.

We have a similar difference. (one of my son's terms) I was born in Portland, Oregon. We moved to So Cal when I was 5 and I've been here ever since.

I think those commercials are on the 'Courtesy Nissan' FSM cd.