sblake01

Craig, I pretty sure that would be MSA. As I recall they offered a chrome valve cover and a carbon fiber cover that fits over the valve cover. http://www.zcarparts.com.

Yeah, NADA puts its high retail value at $7925. Good luck!!

You might not weaken the structure by 'installing' a V8 but unless you do some reinforcement you will weaken the structure by driving that V8Z!

It sounds like you guys are talking about the b/y wire that connects to the press-on terminal on the solenoid. All that wire does is link the ignition switch with the starter. Without it the car won't start but it's not a fusible link just a wire. At least that's how it is on my 78Z and 79 810. It comes directly out of the wiring harness and neither car has been altered.

Do it! (But don't lose the stock wheels & hubcaps!)

A V8Z is really not a good idea either, for the same reason-- Unibody construction. To do either 'properly' you need to do some structural reinforcing. That gets back to that 're-engineering' of the car. I have torches and welders, etc. but I am not an automotive engineer. In my opinion, T-Tops and V8s are for cars that originally had them.

Thanks, Alan. I come here to learn and once again, I have! I had always associated RHD with the rally cars. Interesting that in the letter to Keith, they say "We had some questions ourselves but when we directly asked the director of Nissan Italia, he insisted that this was the car." In the letter to me they say " . . but we didn't have serious doubts until the article had gone to press . . "

Here is the reply they sent me. It has been saved to my computer, scanned, and it is clean. re_ datsun s30 rally car.txt

I, too have emailed Mr. Annis and am awaiting his response.

Sunroofs on series one Zs aren't really my cup of tea but since there is already one present on your car, your modification is much more preferable to what is already there. It could actually be pretty nice if done right.

I don't think you should be concerned. It looks like his only reason for being here it to sell the car. :disappoin

I don't know. In twenty years of working off and on with L24E and L28E engines, I've never known a fuel pressure regulator to go bad. But the electronic bits; thermotime switch, air pressure reg., water temp sensor, thermal transmitter, cold start valve, etc., I alwas keep at least a couple of each on hand tested and ready to go.

No body is venting on you. I believe his question was would he notice the hp freed up by removing the stock fan. I was simply trying to answer that. Rather than sticking things in the radiator, drilling holes for senders, tie wrapping senders to your radiator hose, relying on a manual switch Id prefer to let the car work the way it was designed to. Cars that overheat because of the fan clutch either have an inferior aftermarket one or a malufunctioning factory one. Just my opinion based on my experiences not a rant or a vent. Sorry you took it that way.

Somehow, I think you are talking about the AIR regulator. If you disconnect the hose from the FUEL pressure regulator, the car shouldn't run at all. If you suspect a fuel pressure problem, perform the fuel pressure test outlined in the FSM. The problem you described at the beginning of this thread leads me to the thermotime switch/cold start valve combination. Have you checked those yet?

I thought Patrols had the old 4 litre 'P motor.' LD28s are from the early 80s RWD Diesel Maximas. I think the Australian public was fortunate enough to not have those offered.

I have known people to drill and tap a hole in the water outlet and mount the temp sender for their electric fan there. Seems to me if you have the skills to do it that way it would be much more accurate.

If you haven't bought one yet, I looked through my stuff and found 4 of them. I've just finished testing them on my car and they all work. If you want one let me know. I'll let you have it for postage.

Check you Air Regulator. Sometimes called an 'Auxiliary Air Valve'. If it was originally a California car, also check the Altitude Switch.

I went back to the Rialto, Ca. Ecology and all I found were two upside down L28D's with the cranks gone. Oh, well. I'll keep looking.

I read somewhere that the transition to having a sway bar was 2/73. Based on Carl and ChrisA's response, it must have been sometime druing the month. That's why it's so hard to pin down some of these things. So many things about the early cars are not clear cut.