sblake01

I have a setup to convert LP's to CD and lots of LP's. What are you missing?

Turbo and F.I. The real fun is about to begin!

If it take a few times to start up especially when it's cold you need to look into the thermotime switch/cold start valve combination.

daddz, I just can't break it down that way. What I like to listen to doesn't change because I'm in a Vette or a Z or a pickup truck. I don't need to assimilate what was happening then, I was there! I would enjoy Burbeck (Paul Desmond) in a 350z as much as I would in a Duesenberg. But I wouldn't enjoy 50cent in either.

I understand your meaning when you say that. But, you'll always get argument from someone. I use the stock fan/clutch on both my cars and a 180 deg thermostat. I live in SoCal. No overheating problems. You have to make sure you have the correct clutch. Nissan used Atsugi fan clutches. In some cases they used Ampco fan clutches. Those are the only ones I would ever use. Under no circumstances would I use one from Autozone, Kragen, Pep Boys, etc. I'm sure the Datsun Engineers wouldn't have put a device on their vehicles if it didn't perform properly. Remember these parts, if original, are 20 to 30+ years old. New ones or at least properly working ones do work. As far as the 10% hp increase thing, I'm not driving a race car so what good is that?

I, personally, wouldn't install just one piston but I have seen it done and working. Make sure it's the same piston as you already have in the other 5 cyl. Don't get the P90 head unless you want to lower you compression. Look for a P79 like Keith suggested. If your head (N42) is okay I'd use it since you wouldn't really notice much difference without other modifications.

You've changed carbs and you've even changed engines! I would stop blaming either at this point. Get back to basics. Fuel, spark, etc. There are no 'phantom' issues. Everything has a cause. You have changed a lot of things around on that car and the more you change the harder it becomes to diagnose. It sounds to me like it's ignition related but like I said with so many changes, I would go back to basics and try to eliminate the possible causes one by one.

AFAIK, the Pinto did come out in 71. I had one. Their recall and subsequent repair was to put a plasic shield behind the tank. In further tests, the shield also burned in the explosion.

If you're going to change the ignition relay, I would go to a self service junkyard and get a couple of them from there. I say a couple because that chances of them both being bad are slim. They'll be cheap because they have no clue what they are. Try them to make sure that is your problem. That will save you from paying Nissan's price if the problem turns out to be elsewhere.

Is your 79 ZX f.i. or carbs? I only ask because I don't know at which point the Aussie cars became f.i.

Two things jump out at me in that ad. The Holley 4bbl conversion and the AC 'needs recharge'. When I'm looking at a car to buy and the seller tells me that, I wonder why, if it was that simple, that he didn't have it done. If that's all it would take for the AC to work, working AC would be a selling point.

daddz, I really can't break the music down by the car I'm driving. The car isn't listening to it, I am. Since I was born in 1950, my musical influence would be basically the 60s and 70s. I like pretty much anything from those eras. I get somewhat selective when you start talking about music from the 80s, 90s, and 2K. I don't like rap/hip hop or anything that even resembles it. Drinking and driving or for that matter drinking alcohol at all has no appeal to me. (The 'Deacon Blues' comment) But back to the original statement, remember this was about a car that hit the scene at the onset of the 70s.

I guess we haven't established what kind or year Z he owns.

Chris, that car has severe rust issues. IMO it would take way too much money and time to bring that car back.

And you guys tell me not to be mean!

Sylvania Silverstars are much brighter than stock, cost less than H4s and plug right in with no modifications. I use them on my dailly driver 810.

That might be cool for SkiWaNow but Gav and Gee are a bit farther away!

The second picture show the relays and identifies them. Remember this is for a 78. I'm pretty sure that it's the same but compare the picture to your car to be sure.

Okay, here are the pictures. The frist one shows the location of the relay bracket which is above your fuse box on the passenger side. You'll have to remove the panel below the glove compartment.

When that car is right it need no gas to start. By 'more gas or less gas', I assume you mean that you are stepping on the gas pedal to start the car. It has a cold start circuit and the fuel pump is self priming.

I don't know if it would be the same as your 76 but I can attach a picture of the relay bracket from my 78 FSM. Does anyone know if there would be a difference?