sblake01

Well, yes and no. What you're trying to say is "Without further ado." 'Ado' means 'fuss or concern' while 'adieu' is French for 'farewell'. Looks like a nice 73. I owned a 70 and 72 in that color 'back in the day'.

With no pictures and the description you gave.....maybe 200 bucks. That is to say that a lot more info is needed.

The dashpot was only on the manual trans cars.

I believe that would be the 'Performance Chart' on AC-57. The reason I say that is beacuse I have that page printed out and on the wall above my workbench. It along with the chart for the 810 I used to own weren't in the database I use. Anyway, pressures are only a part of the story, however, and should only be used as a general guideline. That chart also takes humidity and ambient temperature into consideration; factors which are as important if not more so than suction/discharge pressures. I use a charging machine which has a thermometer and a hygrometer on it and I charge by the recommmended system refrigerant weight rather than pressure. When I do put gauges on the system after charging it with the machine, the pressures are within the figures shown on that chart or the chart for the particular vehicle's sytem I'm working on. Using the machine it's 'one and done' while charging with cans or even refrigerant cylinders and gauges can be somewhat trial and error or hit and miss if you don't have a way to factor in temperature and humidity.

I've actually had caps with good o rings hold the pressure that would have otherwise escaped through a leaky valve. ZCurves, how did you arrive at the 10 to 1 ratio? Generally, low side should be about 40°+/- 5, and 10 times that for the high side would be way too high.

You didn't wedge the tensioner? If not, you're going to have to pull the front cover.

I have two IAPCO cap and rotor sets for 79 and up 810/280ZX and a used K and N 33-2010 air filter that would need to be cleaned and oiled. It fits 75-78 stock 280Zs, 77-80 810s as well as many other Nissans. Yours for postage.

That pales in comparison to his opening up a 9 year old thread to imform three of our Australian members of something they werent actually discussing. The most recent visit from any of those three guys was in September 2010.........http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8328&p=401954&highlight=#post401954

Probably need to combine this thread with the other one or kill one of them........

Or what good 1) shaving the head would do if you're looking for piston to head clearance or, 2) shaving the pistons would do, or, 3) shaving both would do. Can't wrap my head around either of the last two..... That would really only be true if you were also using the L26 rods and pistons along with the L28 crank (essentially the same as a L26 crank).

The only time I can recall having an oil leak is when the oil pressure sensor was leaking.

Look like a P.O.'s hack/repair. The PCV hose on my 78 was one piece.

The striker can be adjusted up and down but that will also affect the way the hatch lines up with the body.

That's about 500+ miles, right? Even @ 30 mpg and @ $4.00 per gallon, that would easily exceed $50.

All the EFI wiring is also on that side, the only thing on the other side is the spark plugs. Bob, your vents are on the way, should be there no later that Wednesday.

There's only a shield on the left side vent that goes over the injectors. I'm packaging up a good used set to send to rcb280z as soon as I shut down this computer. I'll have those in the mail tomorrow, Bob.

PM sent.......

Sarah, are you talking about ester oil? If so, it's really not that dificult to find. I get mine from Johnstone Supply. All they do is HVAC.

On the back of that knob/switch there should be two wires, one that feeds power to the switch and another that sends power for it to the compressor. There's also a capillary tube that goes from the back of that switch to the evaporator core to sense it's temperature. Check to see of you have power to the wire that feeds the switch when the key is in the on position and your HVAC controls are in the position show in your attachment. If so, try jumping the two wires together and see of the comperssor comes on. That would tell you whether or not the switch is bad.

The ones with plug in pigtails are for the thermotime switch and temp sensor IIRC.

Have you checked the fuel pressure? That might help to answer the last question you posed.

My 78 was at 99482 when I sold it in 2009. Two owners later I'm sure that 00000 has come and gone....

That's not a factory system. It likely doesn't have a pressure switch as many add on systems didn't back then.

Wow...a 10 year dormant thread awakened. That has to be the record.