sblake01

Wouldn't that be FR?

Yep, I've cleaned them and had them work and I've cleaned them and had them be just as bad as they were. It all depends on what's causing the bad resistence, corrosion or wear. I don't actually use Deoxit but a similar product called 'Ideal Electronic Switch and Contact Cleaner'. But it stiil needs to be dry before you test it.

You might try removing the cover from the AFM and spraying the contact area of the potentiometer with a contact cleaner such as Deoxit or the like. And then re-check the readings. You might also see if running the tests with at fully charged battery changes the readings. (Obviously the voltage based readings will change but I'm referring to the resistence based readings)

I have scans of the pinouts, year by year, but I doubt if the ECU would have been changed. In California, the emissions control setup has to be what the car originally came with not what the engine came out of. (I hope that makes sense)

grantf, those are usually the best shops! Old guy with a cigar, ditry counters, fan belt gauge hanging on the wall, etc. Little by little, those places are disappearing. Make sure you get the internally regulated alternator as 78 was the first year for that. The internal reuglator module is what generally goes bad in them. I just don't know where to find that part anymore.

My skin crawls from just the thought of them testing it for me. I wouldn't actually let them do it. I have the tools/skills and I really don't need their help. Testing an alternator isn't rocket science. I used to be able to get rebuild kits for these altenators from a friend of mine that had a shop but they went NLA a couple of years ago.

You can test is yourself if you have a voltmeter. Personally, the thought watching some kid at Autozone test anything for me makes my skin crawl:

I understand now though I never really though much about it in the past. 77 and 78 had the larger gas tank so the deck had to be raised. The 'false floor' was added to cover the spare tire which now sat higher and that wooden 'floor' continued forward to where it covered the tool box openings.

Andy, I was going by the fact the it has the solid fuel rail rather than the one with the two openings on top that are filled in with hoses. The solid fuel rail didn't show up until the 78 model year and was used until the end (83, 84 if you cound the Maxima). And then the 02 sensor didn't show up until 79. Also, the fact that there is no dashpot on the throttle body indicates that it's 79 or later. I see stuff capped of which also makes me think that the engine has been changed. Post the engine/head numbers as per jwtaylor's suggestion. That would help pinpoint what the year range is.

I'm not sure exactly when they stopped installing the lids, maybe 76, but I can tell you that my 78 didn't have them. The raised deck would cover them which would generally make them useless.

I recall Gurney being in a few different racing disciplines but I don't recall him winning enough have the title that is this thread's topic.

That is an O2 sensor but you're engine appears to be a 79 or later engine which would have an O2 sensor if the attending exhaust manifold was used. Problem is that there is no provision for an O2 sensor on the 78 and eariler models, nothing to connect it to.

I'd have to call BS on that one. If he can take a clear picture (more or less) of the VIN on the dash, why not the plate?

Sounds to me like the idle is just fine. No choke but the EFI cars do have a fast idle system that consists of the Auxiliary Air Regulator, which basically bypasses the throttle plate during warm up, and the water temperature sensor which is a heat dependent resistor that richens the fuel mixture druing warm up. A bad water temperature could also cause hesitation.

So I guess dubaiiboy didn't really buy it.:stupid:

I've already contacted them. They don't make what I'm looking for.

I don't care for Panasports or Wats either. So many people have them.

That's Stephen. Yeah, I've fixed my info a few times only to return at some later date to find it amiss in some way.

I'm not trying to be disrespectful but what's so great about those wheels? I had them on a 510 basically because they were cheap. They looked okay but I wouldn't go out of my way to have a set 30 years later. Now if I could get someone to make some 18" American Racing 200S in the correct offset for my GTO for a reasonable price.........

It really doesn't matter. I fixed it as I have before but it will probably get changed again. The way that spread sheet is set up, anyone can change it at anytime whether inadvertantly or on purpose.

There are some problems in that spread sheet. My former Z, HLS30462153, is shown twice. But it's not a black 2+2, 4 speed in Amboy, IL., nor would anyone have it's engine compatment tag from the Sacremento, CA area Pick-N-Pull as shown on the spread sheet. I just saw it 3 weeks ago, alive and well with it's new onwer who resides in Burbank, CA less than an hour from where I live.

Not bad. The OEM ones are are somewhat pricey for washer. I bought mine when I worked at ACE Hardware. I think they were something like 54 cents ea. with the employee discount

Tough to say without knowing what you paid for them..... 10 of the OEM ones would be about $24.50 total incl. shipping from NissanParts.cc.

Try this thread. If that is the switch you're referring to, you might even contact member saridout since he was the one that made it work: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35873

I think the only reason people are leary of FRAM filters is because of people saying not to use them, i.e. the 'horror stories' mentioned above. I generally don't buy them because of hearing that so often, but I've never seen anything definitive as to why either......