sblake01

If you're referring to the Manheim Gold Book, I think it's a part of NADA now.....

That's cool (no pun intended!). I've often heard of people removing things from their cars for weight reduction. May be important for a race car but I just can't get to that reasoning for the street. I'm an AC tech and didn't have any problem getting the old systems to work and work rather well if I might say so. Me? I live in Southern California and heat does bother me, especially the 100+ degree summer heat we get here:angry::mad:

You might also consider taking your old one to a radiator shop to be repaired. I had a tough time finding a new (not rebuilt) one 6 years ago so it might be impossible now. On a side note, I can't see living in Tucson, Az. and not wanting A/C. I hope you're not doing that just to make the car lighter as I've read so many times over the years. That's such a waste of time considering how much weight you'd actually have to remove to make a difference. Both of the old systems in my 280Z and 810 were fully functional and actually cooled quite well.

No clamp at the bottom. Only at the fuel rail. That's how they were OEM.EDIT: Darrel beat me to it..

I've never used the soldering iron method. I've always cut them off w/a blade. I do believe that the injectors are all the same with the possible exception of the very early 75s that had actual Bosch EFI rather than JECS EFI. I've only seen a couple of those and both had already had the injectors changed so I really didn't get to see what, if anything, is different.

I just put them in the cleaner, let it run for a few minutes, hit them with the air gun and they look like this:

I have an 2.5 liter untrasonic cleaner that I bought from Harbor Frieght that works great for stuff like that. It was something like 40 bucks when I bought it about 4 or 5 years ago.

I answered with the simplicity in which the question was asked. Obviously he'll have much bigger obstacles to overcome than the firing order just based on the was the question was posed. But that is what he appeared to ask for..........

That appears to be from the 260-Z Diagnostic Procedures manual. There were a couple other 260Z suppliment type manuals out there also. A 260Z carb adjustment manual and a fuel system modification plus program manual IIRC. I think the three of them are on my other computer.

1-5-3-6-2-4

But, then again, Scrubs is not your typical medical show..........

I'm sure the owner knows what he wants to do with the "first Z car sold in the US". Everyone has an opinion of what should be done with it. That's been established in two threads now......

That just goes to show that Nissan was ultimately successful with their name change campaign back in the 80s.

There's a radio wiring scematic on page BE-80 in the factory service manual. Here's a link to a zipped copy in pdf.: http://www.xenons30.com/files/FSM/76_datsun_280z.zip

More importantly, if those connections are down by my girlfriends' feet, my wife needn't know that.

Like the top tank of that radiator ......

I'm glad you solved it. The way you described the ticking in the other thread just didn't lead me to think it was an exhaust leak which is a different sound than an injector tick. But one of the guys, I think IdahoKidd, might have mentioned to check for an exhaust leak.

I'll bet he doesn't have the one Mitchell is asking about. I recall a discussion with some Datsun gurus about that particular decal at a show about a year or two ago and the consesus then was that it wasn't being reproduced by anyone.

Does it have a catalytic converter? If so, what's it's condition?

What I recall about my 78 280Z and the 810 was the E terminal which was a ground, the battery terminal, and the two terminal plug. I don't recall seeing the other terminal you describe on either car.

Two things: The fuel pressure test and the location of the cold start velve are outlined in the FSM in the EF section. The other problem sounds like either a bad ignition relay or a bad connection at the ignition relay. You say the car started when the dash lights came on. The EFI system and the dash lights would both be fed initially by that realay.

Buying a new/rebuilt one is likely your best bet. Not necessarily better but easier. Years ago, I used to be able to get the parts to rebuild alternators from a friend that has a shop. Even though, I used to have to borrow tools from him to disassemble/reassamble it.

You could actually go as much as 4.11 with a 5 speed and still have a better overall high gear ratio than you do now with the 4 speed/3.545.

Just measured it and it's just a shade under 17 mm. so, like I thought, they're too big.