sblake01

I was just wondering since the original poster, whom you quoted, directly asked a question about buyig parts on eBay and you linked to a page showing Superchips performance chips on car-stuff.com. I just didn't get the connection.

What's that got to do with the original post?

Dude, this thread was dead for over 5 1/2 years!

Okay.

I'm just not convinced on that solid 'strap' deal. The 'give' is built in to it for a reason an if you make it solid that force/stress has to go somewhere.......

Oh, I know. It's just that the 78 I had was completely stock as far as the fusible links go and I could have accurately answered your question if I still had it.

I really don't recall the fusible link colors except for the ones under the two plastic covers. And since I no longer have the car, I can't go look at it to verify them.

No need for you to apologize. Those types of exchanges between myself and my esteemed colleague go way back. As far as the brown fusible link goes, I don't ever recall using on an a car or truck but I have a Cooper/Bussmann chart that lists them at 70A.

Fair enough, as I can see that this will go nowhere, as usual. We're agruing different points. Or, at least, you're agruing, I'm just stating my point of view from my experience. Let it go, okay, as I'm done with it.

My car never quit at any time in the 12 years that I owned it. Without any kind of fuse upgrade. They were in good condition when I got the car which, unfortunately, isn't always the case. I did the vinegar bath thing on them, replaced the links and plastic covers, both of which you could easily find 12 years ago, today, not so much, and never had a problem with them throughout the rest of my ownership. However primitive the fusible link setup may look, Nissan actually did a pretty good job on them. It's lack of maintainence, previous owner modification/abuse, etc. that kills them. Back to the Z Creations upgrade. I know they're just covering their butts with those warnings but the 'off road' statement would steer me away from wanting to use their conversion.

I sent these taken the day the new owner picked it up:

The disclaimer would concern me in considering that one:

Here it is. I hope it helps. I've always has to study this thing very closely even using a magnifying glass. And even guess at some of the areas that are obscured by other components.

I'm assuming you've seen the one on page ET-2 of the 1977 FSM. If not I can scan it a post it here.

Depends on what you want to do. I repalced the insulator and strap on mine about 10 years ago. It cured the clunk and it never came back. I figure that since it was okay when I bought the car in 1997 and the clunking began in 1999, the original strap and/or insulator lasted for 20+ years. The problem is, though I was able to purchase a strap through the dealer in 1999, from what I understand, they're unabailable through Nissan now. And, yes, when compared to the new one, from what I recall, the old one was stretched.

It's not that simple. Your best bet is to replace the regulator with the same type of regulator that's presently in the car unless you want to do a conversion. The internally regulated alternator doesn't just plug in in place of the externally regulated one. That requires modification to the wiring. Unless you know how to do that all you'd be doing is creating more problems.

Why would you do that? Unless you 77 280Z has been converted, it would have an external regulator.

T's 280z, pm sent.

I know they existed because there was an aftermarket cruise control in my 810 parts car. I had that car about 6 years ago and the cruise control it in actually worked! When I sold it, the cruise control went with it since I had no interest in putting it in the good 810. I don't really remember the details of the setup but if it worked on a 79 810, it would have worked on a 78 280Z (which I also had). Unfortunately, I have no clue as to where you'd find such a setup today.

I've never purchased a complete rebuilt L series 6 cylinder engine. Any rebuilding I was involved with was always done by me. Don't even know where you'd look for one but someone else might. I always hear the name Rebello but they don't do 'stock' rebuilds from what I understand.

Take a rubber mallet and tap on the catalytic converter. If you hear rattling inside, the 'honeycomb' has become britle and fallen apart and that's where the noise is comming from. If that's the case, not only do you need to replace the cat but the muffler also because particles/pieces from that damaged cat will get lodged in the muffler.

Doubtful that vacuum hoses or electrical connection are going to cause flooding. Either all 6 injectors are leaking which is unlikely if they're new, or you have weak spark. I.E. either you're getting too much fuel into the cylinders or the fuel that you're getting into the cylinders isn't getting burned. There are many possible causes for this so rather that guessing, I'd suggest reading through the trouble diagnoses part of section EF in the FSM.

$1600 installed is a good deal if that includes the disassembly, machine work, parts, reassembly, etc. Likely the result of 'knowing someone'. I've done them for less that than but I do my own disassembly/reassembly.

I'm aware that vetterben said "not a debate please" but I have to react to that blanket statement. Isn't that a contradiction? Evidentally, diesel engine oil suits Jeffrey. Is there some scientific reason why oil for a diesel engine won't work in a gasoline engine? Most diesel engine oils actually exceed the lubricity requirements for gas engines.

That's swapping the 280Z dist & module for the 280ZX dist and module as opposed to swapping the 280Z module for the GM module.