sblake01

I'm thinking that back in the 70s things weren't quite as complicated as they are now and basically the fact that it worked the way Nissan set it up was all that really mattered. Didn't have to worry about things like "P0973-Shift Solenoid A Control Circuit Low" or "P0203-Injector Circuit Open Cylinder 3" back in those days so a little variance in ampacity rating wasn't too important.

Well, yeah, that's basically what the discussion was/is about. The orignal setup on Mark's 620 (the guy on the other site) is very similar to the 280Z setup. When you say 'cheaper parts', that's only part of the story. The stock module on a 78 is virtually impossible to find these days and quite expensive if you do find one. Though I no longer own my 280Z, I had always planned to do the GM HEI module swap on it if the original module ever went out. I had even discussed it with Mark and would have called on him for assistance if I needed it.

Try these: Niehoff Part Number DR400, BWD Part Number CBE4, or Standard Motor Products LX301.

I have one of the originals hanging on the wall in my garage but I'll have to 'do it in a HHR' or 'do it in a GTO' (doubtful!) since I presently don't have a Datsun.

That pretty much describes the 280Z I recently sold. I had a rear spoiler, front air dam, window louvers, factory alloy wheels, a nice stereo system, etc. I made a profit on the sale based on what the car originally cost me, what I put in it and what I sold it for.

She won't need those covers if she's doing an upgrade to circuit breakers.

If I reacall correctly, that compressor is a Sanden SD508. It's a great compressor and the basis of many custom systems in hotrods, muscle cars, etc. It's what Vintage Air uses in most of their systems (again IIRC). I also had that same compressor in my 78 280Z which had an aftermarket (sometimes called "dealer installed") AC system. In the 12 years I had the car, I had no complaints. That system is, however, different from yours in that it had a center mounted evaporator which would always be more efficient than the systems that were used in the 240Zs that had the evaorator mounted in the passenger footwell. I guess the short answer woud be yes, the rotary compressor is worth chaning over to. It will cool better than the upright York compressor.

I've won awards/plaques, etc. at shows in which I had no expectation of winning anything, with all three (the Z, 810, and the 320 pickup). None of them would fall in the catagory of "megabuck custom with the chromed Chevy engine". In one case, mine (the truck) was the only import. So, I guess it really depends on where you are and what the general automotive interest of the area is. California is so diverse....that can be both a good thing and a bad thing......

Even my old blue 78 280Z drew a crowd and many questions at whatever show I took it to, regardless of what other type of cars were there. TomoHawk, you must be taking your car to the wrong shows or things are quite different, there from here.

I have that magazine. The buyers guide for 280ZX's, not 280Z's.

The A, F, V, N, C, etc. are part of the model designation but they are not part of the S/N.

That's pretty much what Steve is describing in post #3. It can be done.

Where does the evaporator mount with that unit? Passenger footwell or center of the dash?

There was no factory air available for the 240Z, only aftermarket. Factory air didn't become available until the 260Z in 1974.

The system for a 280Z won't fit in a 240Z. The dash was redesigned with the advent of the 260Z in the 74 model year. There wouldn't be enough room behind the dash and the control system is quite different from the 240Z.

That's the area where a rear crankshaft seal would leak.

Where does the oil drip from? Could be a front or rear crankshaft seal since they wouldn't leak when the engine isn't running and the oil has drained back into the pan.

Oh, okay. I'm familiar with the magnet valves, I simply misinterpreted your description. From what I recall, one magnet valve controls the operation of the mode doors and the other is part of the fast idle control. There are simpler ways to accomplish both of those functions as you see in more modern systems. I'm a licensed HVAC/MVAC tech. I no longer have my 78 (or my 810 for that matter) so I don't have a visual but I do recall parts of those systems being redundant or perhaps not even necessary.

If I'm properly pictureing what you're describing, that's actually a check valve which would keep the vacuum from backing up into the valve and also keep the vacuum in the resivor bottle which would hold the vacuum in the system even when the system is off. Also a part of the infinite wisdom of Nissan's design.

Enjoying it.

Try this page. Hopefully it will be of some help to you in deciphering part numbers: http://www.ratdat.com/?page_id=24

Nice! I owned a sky blue 78 for almost 12 years. What's the signifgance of the treble clef? I'm a musician and was just curious.

No trick, it was a pain to change that one as I recall but the hose I used was stiff enough to make the 90 w/o collapsing.

I used 5/16" i.d. EFI fuel line. Kind of overkill but I only had to change them once.

The rubber ones? I just cut them from bulk hose.