Gary L

My battery is only 2 years old and measures 12.03 volts. When I measured at the socket, I put the neg on the outside of the socket and then touched the parking light pin getting the 10 volts and 5.3 volts. Looking at the schematic, isn't the ground for both the rear lamps the same and so I'm not sure why one would work fine and the other not if it was a ground issue?

Well, just checking the parking light pin in the sockets, I have just over 10 volts on the left side and only 5.3 volts on the problem (right) side. So I'm sure that is part of the dim issue, but doesn't explain why the brake light element doesn't light at all on that side.

The socket looks to be fine, same as the other side. I haven't checked things yet with my volt meter, but when someone else comes home tonight, to press on the brake pedal, I can try some testing that way.

This is on my 76 2+2. The other day my daughter was following me home and when we arrived she said my right (passenger) side brake light wasn't very bright. I don't know how long it's been like that, may be ever since I bought the car a couple of years ago and then some. Anyway, when I put the brakes on, the parking element on the right side lights, not the brake element. When I turn the parking lights on, the correct parking element lights, but then if I also put the brakes on, neither element lights. I tried switching bulbs, but it doesn't change anything. The left side (driver side) lamps seem to work fine. Any ideas where in the wiring harness I should start to look. Again, I have no idea how long it's been like this, but it's almost like a prior owner got some wires crossed or something. I don't think it could have come from the factory like that 40 years ago. I did check the connector proximal to the lamp and it seems fine. I didn't yet pull the passenger's seat out to get at that connector. But again, it seems more like wires somehow got crossed verses just a dirty connector or ground? Thanks Gary

I'm going to be changing the clutch on my 76 2+2 and I'm considering other issues I'd like to possible have to fix. I am going to have the rear main seal replaced and also the front seal on the trany. But My first question is, can the engine oil pan gasket be changed with out pulling the engine? There doesn't look to be much clearance between the oil pan and the front cross member and I don't know how deep the oil sump is in the pan. My other question is; when I change the clutch, if the input shaft bearing on the trany seems to be getting bad, can that be changed after pulling the input shatf cover (I'm going to be replacing that seal anyway) or does the the bell housing-to-trany gear box need to be pulled apart. It is difficult to tell from the manual I have. Thanks Gary

Thanks, I didn't mean to lead this off topic, but I'll have to study over the function of the BCDD and adjustments.

Actually, I seem to have the opposite problem when shifting my Z, especially from 1st to 2nd - the rpms seem to drop too quickly to match the cars speed. I've played with the dash pot which does seem to slow the rpm drop a little, but not quite enough. I'm sure I wouldn't want to go with a heavier flywheel than the stock thats in there. I'm hoping a new clutch kit and practice will help with this issue besides the chatter.

Thanks Zed Head, Interesting readings and reviews on Gripforce. The kit I was looking at from them was the Exedy. Earlier in this post Siteunseen said he liked his Exedy. I'd rather not spend $400 to $500 on a kit, but what brand would you suggest? Black Dragon sells one for around $170, but like so many of their other parts, they don't list a brand. Over the years I've ordered lots of parts from The Z Store and Z Car Source so I guess I'll look through their kits again.

But if I purchased a complete kit which also includes an OE flywheel such as the Exedy in the following link, would it matter what's in there now? What else would be different between the smaller and larger clutche?. The bell housing, starter, fork, etc, would all be the same, wouldn't they? http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-OEM-FLYWHEEL-1975-1983-NISSAN-280Z-280ZX-2-2-NON-TURBO-/162095378181?fits=Make%3ANissan|Submodel%3A2%2B2&vxp=mtr&hash=item25bda32f05 And $191 with free shipping from the Gripforce Store seems like a good price for a complete kit

I will talk with the mechanic about the resurfacing and some of the parts stores about ordering both. I may be in MICHIGAN, but I'm way up in the upper peninsula, far far away from the motor city. Thanks guys for all the info and ideas.

Because I'm having a mechanic do the work, I wanted to get the parts ahead of time so I don't tie up his lift waiting for parts. The local NAPA and other parts stores in my area don't seem to stock much any more for the z and zx so I think I'll end up ordering them online, if not from ebay, then rockauto, amazon, or ...... I asked about the flywheel being included with the above kits since mine might be scored or warped, etc. I'm sure their quality isn't as good as oem, but I don't think any place in my area does that kind of machine work to resurface it. And I do think I have an oil issue either with the rear main or trany input shaft seal so I was also going to pick those up to have them ready in case, unless its the rear main cap side seals which would be a pain. Otherwise, isn't the rear main seal on these engines a one piece? As Zed Head mentioned, hopefully I'm safe assuming the PO kept the original 2+2 size.

The "clutch chatter" on my 76 280Z 2+2 is getting worse and so I guess its time to replace the clutch. A prior owner put a 5sp trany in it from a later model zx (81-83). I know there were 2 different size clutches, the 2+2 being a little larger. My question is; I'd like to order a clutch kit ahead of taking things apart, if the trany came from a zx coupe instead of a zx 2+2, does it matter so I can be sure I need to order the 2+2 clutch? Also, some clutch kits like the ones below from ebay also include a new flywheel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-HEAVY-DUTY-CLUTCH-KIT-FLYWHEEL-for-75-83-DATSUN-NISSAN-280Z-280ZX-2-2-/151252214731?fits=Year%3A1976|Make%3ADatsun|Model%3A280Z|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.8L&hash=item233755a3cb:g:3n4AAOSwlfxXGqB9&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/FX-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-KIT-HD-FLYWHEEL-fits-75-83-DATSUN-NISSAN-280Z-280ZX-2-2-/151268857509?fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item23385396a5:g:Pv4AAOSwKfVXGqvX&vxp=mtr Does it make sense to replace the flywheel also. And these prices seem low. Are these kits OK. I drive pretty conservative these days so I don't need a heavy duty racing clutch. I want to order these parts ahead of time and because I don't have a lift, I'll be having my mechanic install the kit. I'm not really familiar with this stuff so any advice is appreciated. Gary

I'm trying to get my ac going and my mechanic says I need a new expansion valve. Of course I realize these are NLA. I did a search to see if there were any past suggestions on whether these can be reconditioned (cleaned) and only found a few old posts from 2012 or earlier which didn't help much. So I thought I'd ask the question again in case someone has more recently come up with a solution for a bad A/C expansion valve. I did see where there is an aftermarket evaporator with an expansion valve included for $385 plus you have to take most the dash apart to install it. Otherwise, just changing the expansion valve looks fairly easy. So has anyone found a source for a replacement or other solution other than $400 plus tearing the dash apart? Thanks Gary

Thanks guys. That makes the best sense. I do know the owner of a local muffler shop that's done other work for me. My insurance doesn't go in effect until May 1 when I can get it out on the roads and see exactly how loud it is or how much droning there is. But I suspect I will at least need to quiet it down some.

I just put a new Magnaflow XL turbo muffler on my 76 280z 2+2. I really like the way it sounds (it has a nice low rumble) but it is a little louder than I expected and I'm thinking its going to get the attention of the local authorities, This was an original California car with a CAT. The CAT is totally shot with shattered ceramic and so it is essentially a straight chamber. Since I live in Michigan (off road country), I'd like to replace it with a small muffler or resonator, The original CAT is 10" long with flanges on both ends. Does anyone know who makes a muffler or resonator that would fit?

Got it done. I started the punch a hole ..... approach, but the seal was so brittle it just started to spit away. Since there is quite a bit of space between the output shaft and the seal, I carefully pushed a needle nose pliers in and was able to grab a good size chunk of rubber with out scratching anything and gave a good pull and it did then just pop out. After cleaning things up, I lubed up the new one and drove it in straight. They do go in tight. Thanks again Gary

I took my drive shaft off when doing some work on the rear diff and I figured as long as I have it off I might as well replace the rear oil seal on the trany which is getting rather old and seems kind of brittle, dripping gear lube a little. This is on my 76 280z 2+2. I've taken trany oil seals off before on other cars with just a flat blade screw driver and they usually easily pop off. However, this one seems really stuck as if a prior owner put a sealer or something on it. I see in the service manual they show to use a puller but I can't seem to find a thin blade one that will slip in and around the seal. Does anyone know where to get such a puller or have any tricks for getting these off? I don't want to take a chance at "marring" up the housing or doing some other damage. Thanks Gary

OK, so I just ran back out to the garage and put the speedo cog back in the trany with the keyed slot turned 180 degrees and it works --- when I spin the drive shaft the cog shaft spins so I know it is engaged Since it is aluminum. it should be easy to grind a new keeper slot. If I mess it up then I'll have to look into a replacement, as long as I don't mess up the gear in the trany it engages. Thanks again Zed Head Gary

I didn't think about spinning it 180 degrees and grinding a new slot. When I get a chance I'll have to slide it back in turned 180 degrees and see if then it spins. The gears in the trany look fine ( I can see them pretty well). The cog body is aluminum, not steel, so it must be from a zx. I think I saw somewhere that the 21 tooth was for a 4.375 rear diff. As for the football game, I guess I'll have to go with the Patriots again since I'm a Michigan Alumni like Brady. Thanks Gary

It looks like I have the later 5 speed as shown in the below link but if so the cog body is offset the wrong way. http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/ratio.html Of the different cogs available, it had a purple 21 tooth it it and I bought the black 17 tooth the z store. part number 21-7181 As I noted, I know its not engaging because when I spin the drive shaft by hand the tail end of the cog where the speedo cable hooks to doesn't move. Does anyone know where I could check on buying a cog body for the 81-83 zx? Thanks Gary

In my above post, I meant to refer to the cog body, which holds the cog, as possibly being off set the wrong way for the later 5 speed. (not the pinion) I ordered the 17 tooth (black) cog from The Z Store which list it as fitting zs through zxs. That's why I'm now wonder if the trany has the wrong cog body (not offset to the correct side). It engaged the larger 21 tooth, but won't engage the smaller 17 tooth because the cog body is offset to the wrong side ? I haven't hooked up my speedo cable yet, but when I put the new cog in the cog body and put it back, when I spin the drive shaft by hand the cog doesn't move so it must not be engaging. Gary

This is on my 76 280Z 2+2 which has a 5 speed trany which a prior owner put in. The trany looks like it came out of an 81 - 83 zx (one tab on the tail and the speedo tab bolt is on the bottom @ 6:00). I notice my speedometer seems off (slow) so I pulled the speedo cog and it has 21 teeth. I checked the rear diff ratio and it is a 3.54 which means the speedo cog should be a 17 tooth. So I ordered a 17 tooth but when I got it I noticed it is smaller in diameter than the 21 tooth ( 13/16th vs 15/16th, resp). After swapping it in the pinion, which went OK, I put it back in the trany and sure enough it is too small in diameter to engage the trany sprocket to drive it. Anyone know whats not right here? For example, might this be some other type of 5 speed trany? Is the pinion wrong for the trany? I noticed it is offset, but it looks like it is offset for the early 5 speed trany (75-80; offset on the same side as the keeper slot) even though as mentioned above the tab and bolt make it look to be the late 5 speed. Thanks Gary

I've probably vacationed in Florida at least 20 times over the years. I loved it and I'm sure I'll be back sometime soon. It must be great to be able to drive your Z all year long.

Yup, you got it. But now that I'm newly retired, I'll be free to take off when and to where I want. Another reason to get the Z running really well.

Thanks guys, lots of good info as I plan my winter projects. Unfortunately, being I'm buried in snow, I won't be able to test drive it until spring. I do plan on doing some more insulating under the carpet and in a few weeks I'll probably pull the diff and take the cover off to see if there is anything obvious with the tooth pattern, etc. Gary .