Gary L

I used stock rubber for the ones I replaced, not poly. I did go back out to the garage and put it in first and when I turned one rear wheel the other did turn in the opposite direction - open diff (I mentioned I didn't know much about rear diffs!). The wheels seemed to spin smooth and quite. I didn't actually note the amount of play before the other wheel starts to turn. And I not sure how much would be considered excessive. I've been using Amsoil GL5 75w-140 synthetic in it. Once again I have to ask a stupid question; whats EP oil? Is the amsoil EP rated? Thanks Gary

Yes, the trany was in neutral. But if I put it in gear I won't be able to spin a wheel ? Or should I leave it in neutral and have someone hold the drive shaft from spinning? Obviously I don't know much about differentials But you say a stock 76 would have an open diff. I have replaced most of the bushings including the mustash bar bushings and trany and diff mounts, except I haven't replaced the front and rear lower inner control arm bushings which I do plan on doing. I'd rather not spend the money for a rebuild if not necessary. Like I mentioned it doesn't clunk or anything..I read quite a few posts where people have them rebuilt and they still whine. From old road tests I've read, they didn't come from the factory with noisy diffs. So I should probably check the last of the bushings I haven't replaced and try it again? Gary

This is on my 76 280Z 2+2 with about 85K miles. The rear diff is noisy, whining on acceleration and coasting, but there isn't any clunking. So I'm trying to decide whether I'll pull it and have it rebuilt or buy an already rebuilt one. According to the service manual it is a 3.54 ratio diff, but I don't know if it is open or a LSD. When I raise the rear end and spin one of the tires, the other doesn't move, I thought that if it was an open diff the opposite tire would rotate in the opposite direction and if it was a LSD they would rotate in the same direction. When I spin a rear tire, why doesn't the other one move? Could it be a LSD diff and the clutch plates or something in my diff carrier are shot? Thanks Gary

No, but he said that was the last of the 280z plugs he has and I should remind others that 280z plugs are difficult to get and that is why he normally just makes the HLH for the 240z. So for others with a 280z, you'd probaby have to send him your plugs or convert to different plugs. Gary

Thanks to Dave Irwin, my headlights are nice and bright. It did run me $140, but it's hard to put a price on safety. And it was truly plug/play. So thanks everyone for leading me to Dave. Gary

Thanks for all the replies, looks like I'll be contacting Dave Irwin Gary

I think I've pretty much checked ever headlight-related connection I can find. I see BD sells a heavy duty headlight harness (10-679) for about $30. http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=65 Has anyone else tried one of these? It says there is no splicing involved (plug/play!) and it "draws the power directly from the battery" vs the headlight switch. So I'm wondering if this would help get me closer to 12 volts at the lights? And I wonder how this integrates and works with the oem dimmer switch and headlight switch or is it then a separate system? Its difficult to tell from the photo. Gary

OK Tom, thanks, that was the kind of informative reply I was hoping for. My next move might be to take apart the combination switch as Cliff suggested and leave the wire splicing alone. Gary

Thanks Cliff, nice article and I see other good articles listed on the index. Gary

This morning I had a chance to pull my steering column cover off and check the electrical plugs. Everything looked clean, no corroding, etc. I still wiped them with a cleaner and now I'm up to about 10.8 volts at the headlight plug, so I gained a little. I found the following on you tube regarding a fix for low beams by grounding the red wire with a black strip and I'm wondering before I cut into my wire, if this makes sense on a 76 ? But again, both my high and low beams seem dim, not just the low beam Gary

Thanks guys. My lack of knowledge regarding electrical systems is obvious. Somewhere I heard the term relay used, but maybe its in regards to ZXs and not Zs. I did pull the steering column covers off and will be doing some checking in that area tomorrow. Also, I meant to mention that both Hi and Low beams work fine on both sides and are equally dim (I know some guys have trouble with just Hi or Low beam not working or just one side and not the other, which isn't my case). Gary

The days are getting shorter and the other night I ended up coming home in the dark and my headlights seem really dim. Actually, this is the first time I ever drove it in the dark. This is on my 76 2+2. I just put newer sealed beam halogen lights on it last year. I checked the voltage on my battery which I also just got last year and its at 12.20 volts. Then I checked the voltage at my headlights for voltage drop and one was only at 10.25 and the other at 10.60 volts. I have new cables on the battery and when I check the body and engine for ground there is no voltage drop. I also have new fusible links and check my fuse box for good connections. My question is, when they say to check headlight relays, where exactly are they? Or does any one have any easy to follow schematics of the headlight circuits so I can trace/check the entire run? I've got a FSM, but It doesn't seem all that clear to me on exactly where the wires run. Or does any one have any other suggestions such as maybe I'm losing voltage at the combination switch. I didn't check the voltage at the headlights with the car running, but running the car doesn't seem to make the headlights any brighter. Gary .

Thanks everyone. At this point I think I'll try the easy route and just order a remanufactured A1 Cardone from Advance Auto at that price. If I have problems I'm sure I'll be posting again for help. Gary

I'm not very familiar with these distributors, but when I suck on the vacuum port I can't see anything moving. Nor can I move anything with my fingers. Unless I'm looking at this wrong, my distributor is froze up. I mentioned the reluctor is a little rusty, may be there is more rust that just that. So how hard is it to do a rebuild on these distributors or should I go with a remanufactured distributor or a new one which is expensive. For example, http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1976/nissan/280z/engine_electrical/ignition_distributor.html http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-distributor~22100-n7700.html To be honest, I don't have the $300 plus for a new one. Has anyone tried one of the remanufactured ones from A1-Cardone for example? Or had good luck with some other remanufacturer? Then as mentioned above, I'm not familiar with these, so these may seem like stupid questions, but -- Isn't there a sprocket on the end that meshes with a drive, do I need to have the engine on TDC #1 cylinder before pulling the old one, etc? Does anyone have a good simple write-up for changing the distributor? Or know of a short video? The last time I changed a distributor it was on my Bronco II -- It had a sprocket on the end, you had to start quite a few degree away from where you wanted it because it spun as it when in and meshed, the engine had to be marked for TDC, etc. So I'm hoping this is simple, but I'd rather ask than make a lot of extra work for myself. Thanks Gary

I sometimes forget about the following link with part numbers listhttp://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex.aspx and for the 280z distributor http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Electrical/Distributor/280Z/tabid/1636/Default.aspx I usually first check on NAPA's web site, then Rockauto, Autozone, etc., but I see the OEM reluctor is still available from NissanPartsDeal.com http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-reluctor-set~22115-n4200.html And the price isn't bad unlike some of the other more major OEM parts. Otherwise, I agree that I'd rather stay with an original OEM part if possible rather than some aftermarket generic. I'll try both methods of checking my advanced. I've seen that article regarding the potentiometer which is a pretty cool trick. Thanks Gary

I'm "refreshing" my distributor on my 76, California model, with new cap. rotor, wires, etc. I see the pick-up coil is also available from a couple of different sources, but I can't find the anyone who still carries the reluctor. Mine is sightly rusty and I'd like to replace it. Or doesn't that matter and these usually don't need to be replaced which might be why they stopped supplying them? Or are most people upgrading to more modern electronic distributors? I haven't checked my air gap yet because I've got to get the right size gauge. The reason I'm doing this is because when I accelerate it sometimes seems to "hiccup" a little so I'll also be checking to make sure the timing advance is working, however I do that? Gary

Hi Robert, what you describe is pretty much what I've got going on. I'll be sure to check those fusible links again. When I looked at them not too long ago they looked OK, but I'll check them for continuity. I hate fusible links and don't know why they just don't use regular fuses. I blew a bunch once on my Bronco II and what a pain it was tracking them down and replacing them. Gary

I thought I'd take a look for some loose wires before I take off to the cottage for the weekend, not in the Z of course. I pulled the distributor cap and rotor as suggested but couldn't find any worn/shorted wires. This is a California model so there is just one pickup coil in the distributor. However, I did notice two things with the ignition coil that may or may not be significant. First, the ballast resistor has two wires to a center post and one of them was very loose and flopping around. I'm not sure the role these two center wires play in the ignition system. Then I see the high tension wire that comes out of the ignition coil and runs to the center post on the distributor was kind of looped around by the wiring harness (eg, ran over the area around by the throttle switch, cold start valve, AAR, etc). According to the FSM this wire should be keep away from the engine harness. When I put things back together I'll be sure to route it differently. But otherwise, yes, it dies and then jump back alive just like there is a short or loose wire so I'll keep looking. Thanks Gary

Admittedly the meter I'm using is an inexpensive cheapo from Walmart. When I touch the leads together they do go to 0. I always warm my car up for 5 or so minutes before taking off so this is happening when the car is warm. It seems to start OK and revs OK and when I take off it seems fine, but then randomly and unexpectedly it'll just die as noted above, with no forewarning. The tach will just instantly drop as it stalls, but then may jump alive again, and so on. If it completely stalls, it'll start right up. It doesn't seem to happen when just idling, which I've got set about 900 rpms. Part of the problem is I can't get it to do it when I want, but then unexpectantly it'll happen. As I mentioned, I recently put on a new fuel pump, FPR, and checked the fuel pressure which is 28psi at idle and steady. That's why I'm now looking at the engine electronics. Also, I should mention I went thru the 35 pin connector testing on the ecu per the efi bible and everything seems within specs. I'm hoping its not the ignition control module because I see they are expensive. And it looks like I'd need an oscilloscope to test it, which is beyond my knowledge and know how. Gary PS I hope everyone has a great Labor Day weekend and gets to enjoy some great outdoor weather and activities, preferably in a Z!

My 76 runs fine one minute and then it suddenly dies. It starts right up again and will run fine for awhile but then will suddenly die. When it does this its like someone pulled a plug, no stumbling, etc. Just dead. The tach will just drop and its dead. I checked the fuel system (eg, pump, regulator, pressure, etc) and everything seems fine. Therefore I'm moving on to the engine electrical systems. I read somewhere that a problem like this when the tach just drops is sometimes related to the ignition control module wich I'm working my way towards examining. But In the FSM on page EE34, sec 2.2 it gives a procedure for first checking the ignition coil. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1976/EE.pdf The ohms across the ballist resistor as shown is supposed to be under 2 (1.6-2). Mine is around 6. A couple of years ago I put an Acel 8140C coil on it which I never measured at the time. My question is, does this mean my ignition coil is no good or wrong or the ballast resistor needs replacing or what. Or is this not really significant ? I really don't no much about this electrical stuff so any input is appreciated. Thanks Gary edit addendum; After cleaning the ballast resistor contacts really good, the measured ohms is down to 3. The ohms across the ignition coil itself is 1.9.

I'm just cleaning things up and checking on things like electrical connectors, etc. I saw this post and thought I check on my AAR. As I mentioned, it's a fair weather car only, but\ when I do start it I don;t get the momentary RPM surge so I thought I'd see if it even moves, and as I noted, it seems to move OK. Actually, It does stumble for a little bit when I first start it before it smooths out. Gary

I just took off my original air regulator from my 76 and when I put it in the refrigerator for a little while it opens and then when I hook it to 12 volts it closes such that I can't see any daylight through it. However, I can still blow a little air though it with little effort. Would that be enough to cause a vacuum leak? Also, since this is strictly a fair weather summer car, would it matter if I just got rid of it? Thanks Gary

I have not tried this, so I'm not suggesting its safer or will work, but I've heard a less messy way to check for vacuum leaks is use a small propane torch with the gas on very low next to where you suspect the leak is (un-lite of course) and if gas is sucked in a leak it'll also increase the RPMs. Again, I haven't tried this, but may be others on the forum have. It would be quick, easy, and less messy. Gary

I thought I'd take a quick look at the EFI power connector since this is an easy first thing to do. I've cleaned a lot of connections on my car, but I must not have ever looked at this one. It, or should I say, they, were kind of corroded-up. The reason I said they is; why does a single lead for this come off my pos battery terminal to a connector, then 2 wires come out of that connector for about 4 or 5 inches to another connector which then has a single wire again coming out of it which runs to the dash? Can't I just eliminate those middle 2 wires between the connectors or are those some kind of fusible link? I guess I just never looked at those wires that close before. But they were pretty corroded so I'm cleaning them up. Gary

Well, it just so happens it was a left hand turn, however, I did have around a half a tank of gas. Also, the roads out by me are really rough and I was driving fairly fast with all the bumps jarring the car quit a bit -- possibly this did stir up some rust in the tank? . I probably won't have time to try it again until this weekend, but I'll try the hard left hand corner again. May be I should pull the gas tank drain plug to see how the gas looks? I did this a few years ago and it was clear, but may be not now. I'll also check the EFI connector by the battery. Gary